A well-landscaped yard can make all the difference in terms of curb appeal. But if you’re like most homeowners, you probably don’t have a lot of extra time or money to spend on landscaping your entire property. That’s why focusing on one specific area, like the fence line, can be a great way to make a big impact without breaking the bank.
Here are four tips for landscaping along your fence line:
Useful Tips And Ideas For Landscaping Along The Fence Line
Decide on a style and stick to it. You might be tempted to try out a bunch of different styles for your landscaping, but that will only end up making your yard look cluttered and messy. Instead, pick one style that you like and stick to it throughout your landscaping. This will create a cohesive look that is much more visually appealing.
Use low-maintenance plants. There’s no need to choose high-maintenance plants that require a lot of watering and upkeep. Stick with low-maintenance plants that are drought-resistant and able to thrive in your climate. This will save you time and money in the long run.
Mulch around your plants. Mulching is not only good for your plants, but it also helps to prevent weeds from growing. You can find mulch at most home improvement stores or online retailers. Be sure to spread it around your plants evenly and give them a good amount of coverage.
Consider using decorative stones or other accents. In addition to plants, there are other ways to spruce up your fence line landscaping. Decorative stones or other accents can add visual interest and texture to your yard. Be sure to choose accents that complement the overall style of your landscaping for the best results.
By following these tips, you can easily create an attractive and eye-catching fence line landscape that will boost your curb appeal and make your neighbors green with envy!
Grouping Plants Together to Achieve a More Natural Look
Have you ever looked at a landscape and thought it looked too perfect? Maybe the plants were all the same height, or they were spaced too evenly apart. If you’re going for a more natural look, one of the best things you can do is group plants together in clusters.
Why Group Plants Together? When you group plants together, it gives the landscape a more organic feel. It also helps to camouflage any bare spots in your yard, since the plants will conceal them. Another benefit of grouping plants together is that it can save you money. Buying several small plants is usually cheaper than buying one large plant, so if you group them together, you’ll get more bang for your buck.
How to Group Plants Together The first step is to plan out your landscaping before you start planting. This will help you figure out how many plants you need, and where they should go. Once you have a plan, make sure all your plants are healthy before putting them in the ground. Once they’re in, water them well and give them some time to adjust to their new home. After a few weeks, you should start to see some new growth.
Grouping plants together is a great way to achieve a more natural look in your landscaping. It’s also economical and can help to camouflage any bare spots in your yard. With a little planning and patience, you can have a beautiful, organic-looking landscape that will be the envy of your neighborhood.
Below are some landscaping tips and ideas you can consider for improving your fence line:
Before starting to plant along fence the line, make sure you remove any brush and debris on the area. This means removing weeds growing along the privacy fence. You can use a weed trimmer to cut down weeds and grass next to the fence.
Aside from planting ornamental plants, the area along the fence is the ideal location to grow long, narrow vegetable garden beds. The edible garden will decorate and improve the look of the area while making the space functional to produce your own food.
If you want to cover some of the wooden fence’s parts (especially the old, rotten ones) plant vines, like bougainvillea or trumpet vine along the base of the fence. These vines will naturally grow up the fence to add color to your fence and at the same time, soften the look of the wood.
If you want to grow plants along the fence line, grow tall ornamental grasses, such as cape thatching reed or muhly grass, along the area. When they grow, they will fill out to cover a large area of the fence while adding movement and texture to your outdoor space.
To have blooming flowers near your fence, plant ornamental grasses with flowering perennials such as poppies or hydrangeas. You can also consider growing flowering herbs like chives and lavender since they work great for different types of border gardens.
You can also consider planting pots. Place large, decorative pots along the fence line. Make sure you pace the pots evenly along the privacy structure. To add color and boost visual interest to the area, grow a variety of plants in one pot.
Lastly, to improve the look of your fence and outdoor space, you can also hang decorative garden fixtures such as metal lanterns as accent pieces. However, make sure you choose only lightweight garden decorations that won’t cause the fence to sag or lean and screw the pieces into the wood securely.
Contrary to popular speculation or belief, growing grapes in your backyard is not as difficult as one may presume. When someone mentions the idea of starting a grape garden, one may immediately assume that without acres of free land at their disposal, it will be almost impossible to be successful. This is absolutely NOT true!
As a matter of fact, there are many amateur grape growers today who are content with their small vine garden in their backyard. The grapes they produce are excellent for eating and making wine and the little effort put into it has a high return.
As a full time grape farmer, I have learned the secrets of what it takes to grow the best tasting grapes for decades. As a child I would work with my father on his farm planting and pruning grapevines all day long and continued working with him as a teenager and even now as an adult and family man. I want to teach you how to grow grapes and share with you the secrets of keeping a successful grapevine garden so that you too can enjoy what these delicious fruits have to offer.
First of all backyard grape growing does not require expensive fertilizers or manures. You can get some really good vines from ordinary soil. Another goodie is that you won’t have to invest a lot of time in your garden because the roots themselves will seek out what they need. The only thing you need to concern yourself with is where to put the vine itself.
It really is quite amazing how no matter where you plant your vines, all you have to do is train the vines around your house towards the well sun lit areas. If you have an open garden where the sun hits all day long, then that will work even better.
The best time to plant your grapevines is during the fall. Do not let the vines fruit during the first season of planting. Instead, always remember to cut down your vines to about four buds. The reason for this is that those four buds will become the strongest points and will lead the rest of the vine up the wall where you planted them in. You want your grapevine to use all of its energy producing a strong wood for the next season because it is during the second season of growth that you get the best grapes.
Remember that the wood that is born this year will lead to next year’s fruits. So during the first year, clip away any flower buds that may form, thus making sure that the vine’s energy is focused on producing wood.
When pruning during the summer, you want to cut off all new growth while leaving the old wood to provide for future fruit. Only remove old growth when they become a straggling nuisance hanging all over your garden. When pruning in the fall or early winter, you should cut back the vines this time to about five to six buds only so that once again, the vines will use all their energy for producing strong wood during the winter.
Most grape vines ripen during the late summer, early September. At this time you can enjoy the best tasting home grown grapes and continue preparing your vines for future growths.
Wait! Don’t go planting some grapevines you purchased at your local nursery and then wonder why you are getting poor results. Many of these vines come from other states and were cut from a healthy patch which will never have the strength to ripen once taken home. Learn the fundamental procedures of backyard grape growing first before making a mistake!
Tips For Successful Backyard Grape Growing
done properly. Grapevines are perennial plants and will grow for years to come. There are a few things to consider before you just jump in and start planting your grapevines. Otherwise, mistakes made at planting will haunt you in the future.
Grapes need lots of sunshine. One of the biggest mistakes that the home gardener makes when growing grapes is to plant them in the shade under a tree or where they get shaded by houses most of the day. If you watch wild grapevines grow, you will notice they make all efforts to climb trees and shrubs to get into the daylight. Without proper sunlight, proper ripeness cannot be obtained. Be sure the spot you choose has good sun most of the day.
A second mistake that many home gardeners make is to not take into account the grape variety’s growth habit and vigor. These two factors come into play when planting the grapevine and deciding on how to trellis the vine.
Vigorous varieties need lots of space. You can find out how vigorous a variety is by consulting your local nursery where you bought your vines. Vigorous varieties need eight feet between vines when planting. Less vigorous varieties can be planted closer at six feet between vines. Very low vigor vines can be planted as close as four feet.
Growth habit determines the trellis type and how the grapevine will be trained and pruned. Grape varieties with a large portion of their ancestry coming from wild American species tend to droop. These are like the wild vines that grow to the top of small trees and shrubs then cascade downward during the summer. The gardener will find that it is best to mimic this natural growth.
Vines of this type will be trained to a high wire about six feet off the ground. The grapevines are pruned to two to four long canes each year. As the shoots grow each year from the canes left at pruning time, they will grow outward from each side and soon start drooping towards the ground, forming a curtain of leaves by the end of the growing season.
Many varieties have the European grape, V.vinifera, in their ancestry. The European grape varieties tend to have a more upright growth. These grape varieties need a more extensive trellis system. At least four wires are needed to contain them. The first wire is approximately three feet off the ground with the two additional wires at eight inch intervals above the bottom wire. The vines are trained to a trunk that extends to the bottom wire.
Two to four canes are pruned and tied to the bottom wire on each side of the trunk. As the shoots grow during the spring and summer they are tied straight up to the wires above. Once the shoots have reached approximately 16 inches above the top wire, they are cut off at the tips. This “hedging” prevents further growth and shading of the vine below.
Grapes need a good water supply when they are actively growing in the spring and summer. They should be watered at least once a week in areas of little rain. More often under drought conditions. This watering should be continued until the berries begin to turn color. After coloring, watering is not needed and will in fact slow the ripening process. Once the leaves have fallen in the fall, one last large watering should be undertaken before the ground freezes to get the vines through the winter.
Perhaps the biggest mistake I see with home gardeners growing grapes is neglecting pruning the vines each year. This is a must! Without pruning the grapevine becomes an overgrown tangled mess. The grapevines overbear and the berries don’t ripen properly. Disease sets in as the vine is over shaded and doesn’t receive drying winds. The vines will weaken over time and eventually die before their time.
Pruning removes 90-95% of the previous year’s growth. It keeps the vines in balance and aids in controlling the crop and ripening the fruit. Pruning the grapevine is an art, not a science. Information on grapevine pruning can be obtained through your local Ag Extension agent. They have agricultural bulletins that detail the pruning process.
Growing grapevines can be a nice hobby that will provide you and your family with fresh fruit or grapes to make wine with. Table grape varieties and wine varieties are distinct. Make sure you are planting the proper varieties for the wanted purpose. Home gardeners should also make sure that the varieties they are planting are adapted to their local climate. Some varieties cannot take cold winters, while others can tolerate freezing temperatures down to -25-30F.
Varieties that have American grape species in their ancestry can tolerate colder winters. Make sure you consult with your nurseryman to fit the variety you are planting to your conditions. The variety you choose must also be able to ripen in your climate. I see too many home gardeners planting varieties that take up to 170 days or more to ripen in areas that have only 150 days or less in their growing seasons.
If you are thinking of growing grapevines in your backyard or garden, be sure to consider the above factors before you start planting. Choose your grape varieties based upon what you plan to use them for, how they are adapted to the local growing conditions, and plan the trellis according to the variety’s growth habit. I wish you all the luck in your endeavor.
As oriental dishes are becoming more popular in America, so are the vegetables used in those dishes. You can grow these unusual Asian vegetables in your own organic garden.
Mizuna: Also know as Japanese Greens, Japanese Mustard, Spider Mustard and many more.
Mizuna is a compact green plant with fringed, dark green leaves that can be used cooked or fresh. This plant has been described to be slightly spicy and have mild peppery flavor. One can use the leaves in a fresh salad, cooked in a stir fry, steamed, or even boiled. Add them to a clear soup to add color and texture.
The best time to sow seeds is in early spring. You will want to grow this plant like spinach. Space the plants about 6 inches apart. This plant is good for successive plantings. You can harvest the entire plant, or just some of the leaves.
Shungiku: Also known as Chrysanthemum, Tong Hao in Chinese, Ssukgat in Korean, and Kikuna in Japanese.
Shungiku is a beautiful plant that has single yellow flower which are edible, but it is mostly known for the leafy green leaves. Both the leaves and the flowers can be enjoyed in a fresh salad either alone or with other Asian vegetables. You may use the leaves in stir fry, casseroles, soups or many other hot dishes although it is recommended that you wait to the last minute to add the Shungiku leaves. These leaves cook quickly and are known to loose their structure.
Sow seeds in early to mid spring and early fall. This vegetable will not do well during summer conditions causing it to go into premature flowering. You may harvest individual leaves or the entire plant. Thin the plants as needed while enjoying the thinned plants in your favorite dishes.
Daikon: Also known as Chinese Radish, Aukobi-Daikon, or Asian Radish.
Daikon is a torpedo shaped radish that comes in many colors but most commonly white. Larger breeds can get up to 2 ft long and 3 in wide. The root (radish part) is mildly spicy and adds flavor to salads, sauces, and stir fries. In Korea, the daikon is traditionally made into a diced sweet pickle. You can steam the peppery leaves or add them to a soup.
Sows seeds during the spring for a summer harvest, and fall for a winter harvest. When purchasing your seeds, select the variety for the season you are planning on planting. Plants should be spread 6 inches apart. They take about 60 days until harvest. Carefully dig up the entire plant.
Growing unusual Asian vegetables in your own organic garden is fun and exciting. If you decide to grow these or any other Asian vegetables, you better get your Asian cookbook out and get ready to make some delicious meals!
Vegetable Gardening in Small Spaces
Do not let the lack of space be a reason or an excuse to not have a vegetable garden at your home. Thousands of people are in the same situation as you and that is the space they have available to grow fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs from seeds is very limited.
Maybe you live in a big city and land available is scarce, or you reside in a condominium or apartment and the only thing available to you is a patio. Either way, there are some great solutions to help you through this. You can be growing your own fresh veggies in no time.
I recently spoke with Tracy Godsey who runs the small container blog Eden’s Container. Tracy started her small space vegetable gardening adventures when growing fruits, vegetables and herbs in containers is all she could do with her limited apartment space, which consisted mainly of a balcony.
“I currently grow herbs on my patio including basil, parsley oregano, thyme, mint and chives. The basil and parsley are the only plants that won’t overwinter in my containers outdoors.”, says Tracy. “In a vegetable garden, full-sized plants can grow in any pot that holds 3-5 gallons of soil. Large plants like tomatoes need 5 gallons, while plants with shallow roots like lettuce can get by in a 3 gallon pot. Even smaller plants like radishes can grow well in trays and produce a harvest very quickly. If you don’t have a container handy, you can make one by filling a plastic tube (such as a garbage bag or bread wrapper) with potting soil. These types of tubes are known as grow bags.”
Tracy reminded me of a very important factor that I had not thought about and that was the weight of what you are growing. If you are on a second floor balcony where weight will be an issue, Tracy recommends, selecting smaller heirloom varieties and grow them in hanging baskets.
Just because you are limited on space does not mean you are limited on what you can grow. Remember to select fruits, vegetables and herbs that you and your family will consume. Since space is a premium you do not want to waste any with items that will get discarded. Be careful not to over water your items in containers and make sure your containers have adequate drainage holes. To protect from the loss of dirt through those drainage holes use coffee filters at the bottom or paper towels. Both options allow water to pass through but not dirt.
On a final note, “never put ordinary dirt in containers, only potting soil,” says Tracy. “You will have much better success since the soil is already formulated for growing plants in pots.”
Now it’s your turn to roll your sleeves up, get some containers, fill them with potting soil and plant the seeds of your favorite fruits, veggies and herbs. Don’t let space, or in this case, the lack thereof, prohibit you from eating fresh from the garden.
When organic matter has finished decomposing the end result is compost. Although there are many types of organic matter such as manure, leaves, garden waste and kitchen scraps etc. although there are many types of composting organic matter will eventually do its job with or without you.
Composting does not have be a difficult task, most people can achieve quick results it’s just a matter of managing your time properly. If you want your compost to be ready faster then let’s get started.
To start we will use kitchen and garden waste. The only materials required at this time are a shovel or pitchfork. If you do not know where to build your compost pile there are compost bins or tumblers that you can use. In this case we will just use the ground but in the future a bin is more effective and keeps unwanted animals from your site.
Make sure that the compost is a safe distance from the house. All you need now are the ingredients. In the house you can start to collect kitchen scraps in a large coffee can or you may even use a large pail with a lid. You know when to take the scraps to your compost when you start to smell an odor. Make sure not to mix the compost too much, start out by mixing the compost once a week or less. This will speed up the process your compost needs to complete itself.
Try to obtain grass clippings and leaves for your compost. Leaves will provide carbon and your kitchen scraps will provide nitrogen. Try to stay away from scraps that are oily or greasy this will only attract unwanted pests. The best things for your compost are egg shells, coffee grinds, tea bags, bones and even hair. Many baseball diamonds have used hair to get their grass started. Undertake if possible a search for green manure if you can, if not regular steer manure will do.
Once the organic matter has finished decomposing your will know by the texture and smell. When your compost has a strong odor your will know that it is not getting enough oxygen. If the end result smells woodsy or earthy then your compost is complete.
If you are concerned that you are using too much compost then stop worrying as your soil will never reject the amount that you use. The end result should be a proud yard, garden or plant you can enjoy.
Improving Soil with Compost
Soil modification is a key ingredient for how to start a garden. The content and texture of your soil is critical. To have a successful garden, you will need to have good soil. The best soil is not sandy, and it’s not too much like clay. It needs to be able to drain adequately, but hang on to enough moisture so that your plants don’t go thirsty. Too much sand and the water runs off, too much clay and you drown your plants. You may need to modify your soil before you start your garden.
If your soil sticks together, it’s too much like clay and you will need to amend it. If your soil is too sandy, meaning it won’t hardly stick together at all, you will also need to amend it. The way that you amend both kinds of soil is to add organic matter, or compost.
Luckily, organic matter is nothing more than plant or animal matter that is decomposing. The easiest way that you can add organic matter to your soil is to add compost or apply mulch. If you have a heavy clay like soil, it’s best to add manure, or green plant material since they break down more rapidly, instead of peat moss, straw or shredded bark, because they don’t break down as quickly. Even if you have good soil adding compost is always a good idea.
Adding compost to clay like soil makes it more pliable and improves its ability allow water to flow through. Sandy soil doesn’t have enough organic matter, so adding large amounts helps to give sandy soil a better ability to hold water. Large amounts of organic matter are likely to be needed to make your soil suitable. You will usually want to use a ratio of 2 to 1 compost to soil for it to be effective.
Air, water, minerals, and organic matter are all components of healthy soil. There are benefits of adding decomposed matter to good soil, in addition to compensating for poor soil like sand or clay, and that is it adds carbon, which promotes good bacteria growth, and it is more likely that you will have hearty plants.
You can’t have too much compost. In fact, you shouldn’t till your soil more than once or twice a year after you have worked in appropriate amounts of organic matter. This is because as the soil is turned, oxygen is added and it feeds the microbial activity that breaks down the organic matter. So if you don’t till it, it slows down the destruction of your organic matter.
If you invest the time to make sure you soil is healthy it will pay dividends when it comes to growing your garden.
You can compost for nothing ( zero pounds / dollars) by piling your garden and food waste up in a corner. How do you decide whether to pay 20, 60, 140 or even 900 pounds (yes really!) for a compost bin? You ‘justify’ the cash by convincing yourself of the ‘value’. We show you how to do this by checking the composting features meet your needs at a price you can afford.
Sounds like hard work – why not just go online, look for a 5 star ratings and best price – job done. Almost all the online reviews look like this “arrived/did not arrive on time (score 1-5), it was easy/hard to set up (score 1-5). I’d let you know how it works! The all important bit is missing – few return 12 months to let you know if it worked and how well.
We can summarize the process of how do choose the ‘right compost bin’ or the ‘best compost bin’ for you into seven steps:
Step 1 – WHY – define your goals
Step 2- WHERE – review your available space and site for the bin
Step 3 – WHAT & WHEN – how much garden and food waste you produce
Step 4 – EFFORT – how much time and effort you are willing to invest
Step 5 – HOW – which method (ex. hot, cold, digesters, vermicompost) and which bin features are essential and which are nice to have (ex. low odor, no rats, no flies, handle all food waste, kills pathogens, kills weed seeds)?
Step 6 – CHECK – build a feature list
Step 7 – MATCH – which compost bin will deliver the best price / performance
Before we go any further, let’s consider your time and effort to read this article. You might have the time and interest in composting to fully research the topic – if so read the detail below), but many will just want a ‘fast track’ to help them make a quick decision with a degree of confidence that they are choosing a one that will work.
The fast track
Read between the lines of the vendor marketing hype (that’s the polite term!).
Seek user recommendations. Ignore the ‘arrived/did not arrive’ on time, ‘easy/hard’ to assemble. Look for reviews that state “It works, it does what it says, I have great compost out fast, worth every penny, best compost bin used in 20 years.
Validate vendor promises (ex. compost in 7-days). Look for detailed scientific study from reputable independent organization that supports the claim. Walk away if nothing.
Check vendor ability – do they offer in-depth hands-on composting advice or just regurgitate the ‘list of things to compost’ that only applies to ‘cold’ composting? Look for advice that explains hot versus cold composting, how long it takes in each situation an why it differs when hot composting.
Look for vendors with ability in composting science & engineering. Composting obeys the laws of nature such as heat loss & cooling, rates/speed of biochemical reactions. You do not need to know about the science and engineering of composting – but I believe your compost bin vendor should.
For those who want to look into the detail, here is a little more depth around the seven steps to help you choose a compost bin
Step 1 – Consider your composting goals
Do you want to make lots of rich/great compost for your garden that will improve its fertility and cut down how much fertilizer and maybe even peat you use?
Do you just want to keep the garden tidy?
Do you want to make a more positive contribution to the environment by recycling all your food waste so your local council no longer has to collect and transport it to landfill?
Are you just fed up with allocating more and more of your flower or vegetable patch to overflowing compost bins that never seem to do anything?
What are your goals on sustainability, organic gardening, good use of limited resources.
Step 2 – Review your available space and site for the compost bin
Some compost bins need a certain site (ex. a sunny spot, or the opposite keep in the shade’, ‘only use on soil’, ‘do not use on clay soil’. You may have very little choice (ex. it needs to go on the concrete by the garage). Your site may limit your compost bin choice.
You might have a small garden and no space for a large compost bin, conversely you might have very large garden and taking 9 square feet for a traditional 3-bay compost bin system might pose no issues.
Do you want to the compost bin close to the kitchen so you can pop out easily in the rain to empty your food caddy?
Step 3 – Review the volume of garden and food waste you produce
Are you just going to compost seasonal garden waste (summer/autumn)
Do you want to compost grass cuttings (spring, summer, autumn)
Do you want to compost food waste – produced all year-round – ie compost through winter
How much of each type of waste do you have? In my experience, very few garden composters or food waste recyclers accurately know how many pounds of waste they produce. Very few want to record and measure it either. Choosing the right compost bin size is also further complicated as compost bins can (given the right conditions ‘hot compost’). Hot compost 32 times faster than a competitor bin that only facilitates ‘cold composting. So 5 gallons of waste a week in one bin would rapidly break down within a week, but in another bin build up over time and need a 100 gallon bin.
Step 4 – Consider if you want to ‘hot’ or ‘cold’ compost?
The headline benefits of ‘hot’ composting over ‘cold’ composting are:
Hot composting will destroy weed seeds – saving you time and effort in future
Hot composting will destroy dangerous bacteria – you can compost all food waste
Hot composting requires far less space to compost the same amount of waste
Hot composting requires dramatically less time (ex. 30 days Vs 360 days)
Hot composting works all year-round (cold heaps stop in winter below 5C)
Step 5 – How much time and effort you are willing to spend on composting
This is hard – everyone tends to answer – ‘none / minimal’. The more a vendor knows this is critical to your choice, the more pressure to use the term ‘easy’ and the bigger the potential expectation gap and likely hood of user disappointment. There is always some effort (ex. collecting food, turning, mixing, shredding). In our experience, it is easier when you follow simple steps. Investing the time to form habits is challenging – especially at the start when people perceive the habits are taking more time not saving time.
So, now you have a clear picture of what you want. Next, how do you check and match the compost bin against your composting goals?
Step 6 – Build a compost bin feature list
Build a feature list, find the top 10 commercial bins, score each feature, ignore those compost bins that do not fit your needs to produce a short list; then weight/score the remaining compost bins to find the best match.
Step 7 – Assess which compost bin will deliver the best price/performance
Score each compost bin against each feature to find the overall value for money score – the million dollar question!
Commercial Product managers do this kind of work as their day job – but it is likely very few composters, gardeners or food waste recyclers have the time or inclination to do this. Follow our link to the ‘compost bin competitive evaluation sheet’. You will find 12 widely available compost bins types and brands analyzed. You can play around with the scores and weighting to see which you think is best.
Healthy garden soil is teeming with life: there are earthworms and micro-organisms by the millions, each with a particular function in making soil fertile. Like any living thing, the soil must have food. Without food, the life in soil either leaves or dies. Eventually, the garden itself weakens and dies.
Soil life eats organic matter, decomposing it and creating a crucial soil element called humus. Humus is decayed organic material. The process of decomposition releases nutrients in forms that plants can absorb. In other words, decomposition of organic material has a fertilizing effect.
But fertility is only part of the value of regularly feeding the soil with organic material. Humus also contributes to the sponge-like soil texture that allows air circulation and moisture retention. Loam — the ideal soil for growing plants – is a balanced mixture of sand, clay, silt, and organic matter. Humus will bind sandy soil or loosen hard-packed clay.
For these beneficial results (for fertility and texture), the life in soil needs fresh food. Regular doses of organic material will ensure that garden dirt is enhanced rather than depleted over the lifetime of the garden. Every year, a 30 by 40 foot garden needs around 400 pounds (equivalent to 10 bales of hay) of organic material, but it doesn’t need to be added all at once.
Additions of organic material take a variety of forms. For starters, chop garden residues into the soil: weeds, mulch, and plants left after harvest. Hauling in compost by the yard from nurseries or hauling animal manures from nearby farms is also an option. But the easiest and most cost effective method of continuous additions of organic material is to grow cover crops, also known as green manures.
Cover crops are grown and tilled into the soil, replenishing rather than removing nutrients. Even in a small garden, this is an effective method when a harvest crop and a green manure are grown in rotation. For instance, plant a late summer green manure after an early crop such as peas or broccoli.
Some suggestions for cover crops include legumes, buckwheat, and rye grass.
Legumes such as peas and soybeans fix atmospheric nitrogen into the soil when inoculated seeds that attract certain micro-organisms are used. In addition, these legumes are vegetables, making a single planting both a harvest crop and a green manure.
For bulk and quick growth, rye grass or other annual grains are good choices. In colder climates these are especially good cover crops for the end of summer because they die over the winter and are easy to till in the spring. For the poorest soils, buckwheat is most useful.
Green manures can work with or without using powered equipment, but in larger gardens a rotor-tiller certainly makes the process easier. In smaller gardens, the question of whether it makes financial sense to invest in renting or buying a rotor-tiller has to be weighed against the cost of hauling in compost and animal manures.
Either way – hauling or tilling – some form of additional organic material beyond chopping in garden residues must happen in order for the soil to function and for the plants it supports to thrive.
Tomatoes from the grocery store shelves taste like-NOTHING! Why? Most of the tomatoes purchased from grocery stores have been harvested days before they reach the grocery, treated to turn red, and bred to stay firm and not bruise on the shelves. Plant breeding for the last fifty years has concentrated on producing a tomato that can survive anything-except for a taste test.
Growing Tomatoes – Heirloom Vs Hybrid Varieties
Gardeners and tomato aficionados alike have given up on the produce aisle for anything other than garnish. Instead, they turn to seed and plant catalogues to find tasty varieties to grow. When viewing a plant catalogue of tomato seed sources, you will be confronted with hundreds of varieties. Huge and tiny, purple, red, yellow and orange tomatoes. Perfectly round, almost flat, and lemon-shaped tomatoes. Seed catalogues highlight another variable to understand regarding tomato growing: heirloom versus hybrid tomatoes.
Heirloom Tomatoes
Tasty and unique, heirloom varieties are endless. This category of plant is where you will find purple, orange and yellow tomatoes sharing catalogue space with red ones. Heirloom varieties are “open pollinated” plants, which means that if you harvest seeds from a plant, prepare them, save them, and plant them next year, you will grow the same plant. Heirloom varieties were developed over time, in isolated gardens and communities, thus developing unique characteristics.
Heirlooms require particular growing conditions, and each variety is different. The key to success with heirlooms is choosing a variety that is well suited to your growing conditions. Because heirloom tomatoes have not been bred for generations to promote vigor and disease resistance, these varieties need a little bit of extra care. They are, however, worth the extra work. Heirlooms will produce lush, flavorful tomatoes of every shape, size and hue, for every culinary taste or need.
Hybrid Tomatoes
These tomatoes are the result of two different tomato varieties being “crossed” or joined, and the seeds harvested from the resulting plants. Hybrid tomato seeds will produce the tomato with hybrid characteristics for only one plant generation. If you harvest your tomatoes from the hybrid plant and plant those seeds next year, you will not have the same plant.
Hybrid tomatoes have been bred for disease resistance, uniformity, and ability to withstand mechanical harvesting, packing and shipping. Little time has been spent in enhancing flavor in hybrid tomatoes. Much like hybrid tea roses, hybrid tomatoes may be nice to look at, but they have few other desirable attributes.
For large-scale commercial tomato growers, hybrid tomatoes are a great help. For consumers expecting bright red tomatoes in the middle of winter, hybrids are a way to consume. For home gardeners, Heirloom varieties produce yields as large, and much more flavorful. Home gardeners have enough time an attention to successfully grow heirloom tomatoes and bring out their best qualities.
Choosing the Right Variety
Whether Heirlooms or Hybrids are your tomato of choice, you much choose tomato varieties that are well suited to your growing environment. Climates with high heat and humidity will help certain varieties flourish, while colder climates with shorter growing seasons require cultivation of plants that set fruit and mature faster.
What is the difference between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes?
When it comes to determinate and indeterminate tomatoes, the main difference is in how they grow. Determinate tomatoes are bred to grow a certain way and ripen all at once. They are mostly used for canning or sauces. Indeterminate tomatoes are bred to vine and grow continuously, so they are better for fresh eating.
Determinate tomatoes generally grow to be about two to four feet tall and have a compact, bushy growth habit. The fruit ripens all at once on these plants, making them ideal for canning or other recipes where you need a lot of ripe tomatoes all at once. Indeterminate tomatoes, on the other hand, can grow much larger, up to six feet or more. They have a vine-type growth habit and produce fruit throughout the season. Because of this, they are better suited for fresh eating.
When it comes to taste, there is no difference between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes. Both types can produce delicious fruits that are perfect for eating fresh or using in recipes. The only real difference is in how they are grown and how the fruit ripens. So, if you¢â‚¬â„¢re looking for a tomato plant that will produce a lot of fruit all at once, go with a determinate variety. If you want a plant that will keep producing fruit throughout the season, choose an indeterminate variety.
Container Gardening Ideas For Your Home
Many gardeners have given up on the idea of a garden because they lack space, time or lots of experience. But if growing plants is an interest of yours container gardening could be your answer. Container gardens will allow you to enjoy “playing in the dirt” without investing a lot of time or money. You can get very creative in container gardening using vegetables, decorative grasses or flowers and herbs. You can plant a container garden with any plant that would grow outside. The trick is to come up with some creative ideas for your container garden.
You should do some research at your local nursery or on the internet to choose the plants you wish to grow to help you come up with some ideas. Try to use plants that complement each other and have the same basic needs for water, air and light.
A container garden idea that has taken off recently is the landscape container. Some people plant a simple evergreen tree in a container with good drainage to place at their front door. Or you could plant an assortment of flowers for a bright and beautiful vista. If you do plant flowers, add plants that spill over the sides of the container to add more visuals and interest. What ever container gardening idea you can come up with can be placed on a deck, patio, and balcony or by the front doors. Put them somewhere that your family and friends can enjoy.
You can grow vegetables in containers but choose wisely. Vegetables like squash and pole beans need lots of space, while tomatoes need a deep pot. When you grow your own vegetables you will have tasty produce not the bland stuff that is in the grocery store. Nothing tastes better than a tomato right off the vine. There are many chefs and good home cooks that grow their own for just this reason. Don’t forget to pot some herbs, they are pretty plants and add zest to your meals.
But don’t just stick to vegetables and herbs; why not add fruit trees too? Instead of using an evergreen tree, pot a fruit tree instead. There are many dwarf varieties available that work best in pots since with pots there is less soil therefore less nutrients to draw from. If you live in a year round warm climate citrus trees are perfect. In other regions, stick to pear, apple and cherry trees. Another good container gardening idea is to grow strawberries. With strawberries climate does not matter since you can bring the container inside. Fresh strawberries are amazingly sweet and delicious. Imagine how good a bowl of fresh strawberries will be, strawberries that you have just picked.
Remember that container gardens dry out more quickly than traditional gardens. Be diligent about watering your plants if you don’t want your container gardening ideas to wither and die. Container gardens must be fertilized too. Keep a small notebook handy so you can write down the needs of your plant so you will always know when to water or feed. Keep an eye out for pests. If you find a container that has an infestation, isolate it immediately and treat it with a natural pesticide. You don’t want harsh chemicals on fruits, vegetables or herbs. A good natural pesticide recipe is:
In a jar, combine 1 teaspoon dishwashing liquid and 1 cup vegetable oil. Shake vigorously. In an empty spray bottle, combine 2 teaspoons of this mixture and 1 cup water. Use at ten-day intervals (or more often if needed) to rid plants of whiteflies, mites, aphids, scales, and other pests.
So, do some research, come up with your own unique container gardening ideas, gather your materials and get to work. The fruits of your labor will be amazing.
There are a couple of ways for approaching tomato growing in a greenhouse, you can either dig and prepare the soil of the greenhouse ready to accept the tomato plants or you can grow the plants in a container such as a plant pot (12″ diameter) or growbag.
Realistically most growbags that are available which can be 3 to 7 gallons in size are only enough to support two plants. There are ways in which you can push this out to 3 plants but for the cost of a growbag its probably as well just to stick to 2 plants, particularly if you take good care of them and produce lots of fruit.
If you go for pots then you should sterilize them before use, to do this you can use a dilute solution of a suitable disinfectant, something like clorox fluid is perfect for this task.
While we are on this subject, you really should wipe down the inside of your greenhouse with disinfectant as well to ensure any residual contaminants that could also cause disease are removed from the glass.
One of the reasons I am suggesting using large pots or growbags for growing tomato plants is because the soil in the greenhouse is going to need to be dug out and replaced every 2 or 3 years anyway to ensure that you get rid of any build up of disease and also because the soil will be pretty much spent in terms of nutrients.
Space is limited in a greenhouse so the best option for plant varieties is to use the indeterminate variety of tomato plant i.e. a vine plant. You can prune the plant to the required size, leaving about 4 to 6 trusses on the main stem, which is about 6′ to 7′ in height, greenhouse size allowing. This will give you lots of fruit over an extended period. You will have to pinch out the main stem when you have enough trusses to stop further growth.
As an aside, using the bush variety is less convenient for greenhouses because they, as the name suggests, form a determinant size of bush without pruning which is probably a little too large in diameter for the average greenhouse. The fruit also has a tendency to all come at once.
Irrespective of the growing method you choose, you should start to feed the tomatoes at the first sign of fruit and for the duration of the growing period, twice a week should be sufficient. Also as you are in a greenhouse regular and consistent watering is also very important and I recommend 2 to 3 times a day with water that has been allowed to warm in the greenhouse.
As the end of the season nears a way of helping the last remaining fruit ripen is to hang a couple of bananas in the apex of the greenhouse. If that fails to ripen the last bit of fruit you can always use the green tomatoes for making a delicious chutney.
Here are my top three herb garden plants. That is, if you’re primarily gardening for culinary herbs. With this list in hand on your first trip to the nursery, you’re bound to have success in finding what not only works in your yard but choices that will mesh well with your taste buds.
Basil is the best herb for pesto, hands down. Its leaves have a warm and spicy flavor. You need to only add a small amount of this delightful herb in such dishes as soups, salads and sauces. Basil is also particular suited, by the way, to season anything dish with tomato flavoring. Don’t hesitate to use basil to enhance the flavor of your meat, poultry or fish. You can even add it to your morning breakfast omelet.
You’ll want to start your basil plants early in the spring, preferably in a greenhouse or a sun-drenched windowsill. Early in the summer transplant this herb to your garden. Or, if you have the courage, sow basil seeds directly into her garden early in the spring. Or you may want to try your hand at both methods, just in case those seeds don’t catch.
Who doesn’t love some fresh chives on a hot, newly baked potato? If you’re as mad about this herb as me, then you’ve already noticed that chives have a mildly onion taste. This makes them an excellent addition to salads, any egg and cheese dish, cream cheese, sandwich spreads and sauces. And, oh, by the way, don’t restrict chives to just the baked potato. Taste how in adds a little zing to your mashed potatoes as well.
If you plan on growing chives from starter plants, then you’ll want to get these into your garden in the early spring. And you’ll want to give these plants plenty of room. My recommendation is to plant them a good 9 to 12 inches from each other.
If you plan to plant the chives seeds, then plant them in the fall or the spring, digging down a good half inch and setting the seeds in rows that are spaced about 12 inches apart.
3. Coriander
Now here’s a versatile herb. Its versatility is so great that different parts of this plant are known as different herbs. Grinding the dried seeds to use them in your meats, like veal, ham or pork? You’re using coriander. Using the leaves to add to some Indian or Asian dishes? You’re actually using cilantro.
And of course you can use the roots of coriander as well. If you can’t use them right away, don’t worry you can freeze these. They can be used to flavor soups. Or chop the roots and serve with avocados. You’ll find this deliciously delightful!
Even a novice herbalist should have no problem growing coriander from seeds (I know I did it my first time around and there was no novice who was more naive and at a loss than I!).
Sow these seeds in the early spring. Dig a hole about ‚¼ inch in depth. Plant them in rows that are just about a foot apart. Once the seedlings appear, you’ll want to thin them down some, making sure they’re at least 6 inches from the other.
Tiny as they are, herbs are enjoyable and easy to grow. Using them in your cooking allows you the possibility to change the flavors in your dishes in different ways. The freshest of them are great in soups, stews, vegetables, pasta, salads and breads.
Different kinds of herbs create different tastes in foods. If you are new to using herbs, work on them slowly, adding just a little at a time will help you adjust as you go along until you have it just right. As you get used to cooking with herbs, you will learn the best ones that can be associated with particular foods. Storing herbs is also not difficult. Even fresh ones will keep in the refrigerator for several days. But once herbs are frozen, remember that they would be best when only used in cooking and not as garnishes.
For instance, basil is paired with tomatoes, oregano with sauces, rosemary with roasts, and chives with butter or cream cheese. Although these herbs are not limited to these items, you will see them paired most often these ways. If you think oregano can be ideal for a particular food you have in mind, use your imagination and go for it. You never know your experiment will discover you a new-fangled recipe perfectly flavored with the herb.
You will also see that even the simplest meal may seem like a gourmet delight, no wonder why gourmets are masters in associating herbs with food. You can even make herb vinegar for your salad dressing and herb oils that you can use for recipes that call for oil. You can create your own robust-tasting marinades and herb-inspired spreads and rubs. You can make herb butter by mixing butter with minced fresh herb. You will find it fun using your own herb mixes every time you prepare a recipe that calls for vinegar, oil or butter. Really fun, isn’t it?
In my little garden, I love growing basil, parsley, oregano, lemon balm, mint and a few others. Mint can over run your garden so growing them in individual cans to prevent the herb from “creeping” all through your garden is worthwhile. My wife makes an instant natural face mask using basil, lemon and avocados. She would pulverize a handful of basil by blending it on high, then throw in half of an avocado and a teaspoon of lemon juice. I tried the trick and there was nothing like an all-natural face mask fresh from my garden!
These are just a few ways you can use fresh herbs from your garden. There are still a lot of fun techniques of using herbs that you can learn for your own culinary style and recipes. But first, start planting your herbs.
Have you tried storing basil for the winter in a milk carton? This is just one of three good methods to store basil that are revealed below.
With the threat of frost, all garden basil must be harvested and then hopefully stored to be enjoyed during the cold months to come. Since basil has a high water content is cannot be dried like many other herbs as it will turn black and lose flavor. It will also turn black if chopped or bruised and exposed to air. Fortunately freezing basil works great.
Before describing the freezing methods, let’s digress briefly. If you are growing basil yourself, then hopefully you have been harvesting and pruning all season. Pruning makes the plants fuller and keeps them from going to seed which diminishes the leaf flavors. You can store basil keeping it fresh for up to two weeks by placing the branches in a vase and keeping them on the counter out of the sun.
So let’s get back to how to freeze basil. The first step for all three methods is to clean & dry the basil. First remove all leaves from the stems. If you are going to try out the second freezing method, then you will probably want to leave some of the buds intact. The stems should be discarded. Rinse the leaves thoroughly taking care not to bruise them. Finally you want to remove excess water from the leaves by using a salad spinner or laying them out on towels to dry.
The first and most common way to freeze basil is basically the start of a pesto sauce. You chop or puree the basil leaves with olive oil and a bit of salt in a food processor. Coating the basil pieces with oil protects them from air so they can maintain their color & flavor. Pour the puree into small air tight containers and add some extra olive oil on top. After defrosting the puree, re-process adding your favorite pesto ingredients.
The second method takes a little more time, but is still an easy way to freeze basil. This method keeps whole individual leaves or plant buds intact to use as garnish. Put prepared leaves & buds on trays in the freezer for about one to two hours. Once they are frozen, put them into air tight containers. Do not over crowd them; otherwise they will lose their shape. After defrosting for use, you can julienne the leaves or use them whole as garnish on pasta dishes or soups.
Now how about that milk carton? This third method is the easiest. Simply pack the leaves into a cleaned out milk carton with the top cut down. Seal the top closed. Use quart sized cartons & then put the sealed carton inside a Ziploc baggy to make it air tight. When you want to use the basil for cooking, cut off a slice of the carton & re-store the remainder as it was. The frozen leaves are great to use in sauces.
Hopefully you will try one (or all) of these easy ways to freeze basil. By taking time to store basil in the fall, you can enjoy the fresh basil flavors throughout the year. Happy cooking!
If you’re like most gardeners, you probably consider August to be the tail end of the growing season. The truth of the matter is that it’s a great time to start your fall garden.
A fall garden can produce excellent vegetables and extend your crops long after your spring planted garden is finished. The vegetables you harvest from the fall garden are often sweeter and milder than those grown over the summer.
What type of vegetable plants you plant in your fall garden will depend on the space you have, as well as the types of vegetables you like. Be sure that you plant vegetables with the shortest growing season, this will increase the chances they will be full grown and harvested before the hard frost sets in. Starting your seeds indoors the first week of July will also give you a good head start.
Most seed packages will be labeled “early season”, or you can find the seeds that are labeled with the fewest days to harvest.‚Â Since seeds are not usually kept in stock towards the end of summer, you will probably need to purchase seeds for your fall garden in the spring. You can also find them easily online.
Even vegetables that like the heat of summer, like tomatoes, sweet potatoes, and peppers, will produce nicely until harder frosts hit, which can be fairly late in the year in certain areas.
There are certain vegetable plants that normally stop producing towards the end of summer. These include snap-beans, summer squash, and cucumbers. Even these, if planted in the middle of summer, can produce nicely until the first frosts arrive. Many hardy vegetables will grow with temperatures as low as 20 degrees.
If you have root plants such as beets, carrots or radishes, that have the tops killed by a freeze, you can save them by applying a heavy layer of mulch.
For fall gardening you need to know approximately when the first hard frost normally hits your particular area. The Farmer’s Almanac is a great resource for this type of information. It will give you specific dates and is fairly accurate most of the time. You also need to know approximately how long your plants will take to mature. As I said, this is available by reading the individual seed packets.
To prepare the soil for your fall garden, the first thing you will need to do is clear out leftover summer crops and weeds. If you leave the leftover vines and plant debris from your summer crops, bacteria and diseases can develop from these leftover remnants. If your spring plants were not fertilized heavily, you may want to spread a few inches of compost over the garden next.
Once that is done you will need to till the soil and wet it down. Now simply wait 24 hours and your ready to plant.
All too often gardeners will shy away from planting a fall garden, to avoid dealing with frosts. I can tell you from experience that sturdy and healthy vegetables can stand up to a few frosty nights, while producing wonderfully tasting produce.
Fall gardening is not for everyone, but why not give it a try? It can provide you with the opportunity to enjoy garden fresh vegetables for a little while longer each year.
We all have a garden planter or two dotted around our gardens, perhaps filled with a specimen plant or a seasonal display. But there is a lot to be said for using containers as the design basis for creating a garden. Containers are probably one of the most versatile forms of gardening, allowing you not only to choose type of container but also the plant and its location. There are many advantages to container gardening. You can move your containers to different locations within your garden, thereby creating an instantly different effect. You can change planting displays as often as you like, perhaps making the most of the choice of different seasonal plants. You can also grow plants which like different soil types to your own by simply filling them with the right type of compost.
There are an ever increasing number of different types of container you can buy, with materials and designs to suit every climate and different tastes. Pots and tubs are probably the most popular type of planter available. They are for the most part versatile and easily moved to different positions in the garden. Pots and tubs come in an enormous variety of sizes and designs, both traditional and modern. Materials vary from moss covered terracotta and artificially aged stone planters, to reused car tires and fiber glass. There are no rules when it comes to choosing a type of container and there is no reason why you can’t combine traditional with modern. Just be aware that your designs and materials complement each other in some way.
Pots and tubs are equally as versatile when it comes to planting. You can grow almost anything you like in a container. Formally clipped box and other evergreens look stunning as focal points, as do specimen standard plants such as bay trees. Group a number of planters of different sizes together with a plant type such as herbs. A particularly stunning planter can be filled with seasonal annuals for an all year round display.
Window boxes are another great way to grow plants and enhance the appearance of your house and garden. Window boxes are particularly useful if you have a tiny garden or even if you have no garden at all! You can buy ready- made window boxes, have them made bespoke to your requirements or simply make your own. Window boxes don’t have to be made of wood. I have seen some beautifully aged metal ones as well as reconstituted stone ground-level boxes. Grow seasonal displays or plant up a box outside your kitchen window with herbs or easy to grow edibles like lettuce.
Hanging baskets are probably the most versatile of all containers. They can be hung on walls, fences and even in trees. Not only can your display be changed from season to season, but you can also grow edible plants such as tumbling tomatoes and strawberries and even a selection of herbs, hung near your kitchen door. Hanging baskets also come in a variety of shapes and sizes. More traditionally made from wicker, but I have seen some great modern alternatives made from brightly colored plastics.
Troughs and sinks can be used to create mini container gardens in one place. Although strictly speaking you can grow anything you like in a trough shaped planter, the lack of depth makes them more suited to growing alpines and herbs. Stone troughs probably look the best in any garden but why not also think about getting hold of an old Belfast sink which looks particularly effective when planted with herbs under a kitchen window.
Another type of container not readily thought about is the raised bed. Raised beds are a great way of growing both vegetables and garden plants. They are easy to maintain and therefore popular with gardeners with impaired mobility. They are also an easy way of adding structure to an otherwise flat garden space, lifting plants higher up and creating the illusion of different levels to a garden.
Some Container Planting Rules
If you are going to maintain a healthy container garden, there are a few rules you will need to follow whatever type of planter. Drainage is all important for container grown plants. Make sure your container has adequate drainage holes and always add some broken pot or crocks to the bottom of the planter to aid drainage. If your container is to be placed on a hard surface, sit it on some feet to raise it above ground level slightly. Use the right type of compost. Try not to overcrowd your container, most plants will need plenty of room to spread their roots and grow into healthy specimens. Conversely, don’t let your plants become pot-bound. Although there are a few plants which do well in these conditions, as a rule, either divide you plant or re-pot it into a larger container.
In extremely cold weather both your containers and their plants will need some protection. For those that are not frost hardy it is probably best to over winter them into a cold greenhouse. Others can be wrapped in straw or fleece to protect them from frost.
Perhaps the most important consideration of all for container grown plants is water. During dry weather in the summer months you will have to make sure your pots are well watered. Materials like terracotta dry out quickly as the clay absorbs water, so you will often find yourself having to water at least twice a day. Early morning and evening is best. During the winter water container plants sparingly. Waterlogged containers easily freeze killing the roots of the plants in them.
I am a firm believer that a garden reflects some of the personality of the gardener who tends it. Garden planters are a great way of putting your stamp on a garden, particularly if you are a little bit quirky! I have seen old wooden boats used as planters, odd worn out walking boots, pan tiles, antique wash tubs, old car tires and even a disused toilet!
Reusing Plastic Containers and Planters
Anyone who has a garden or ever got a potted plant has had to deal with those seemingly useless plastic pots. Most people throw them out. I save them until they crumble-re-using over and over again. They can be the “greenest” item in your garden that save you the most green.
I have a very small gardening space including containers but big or small practical ways maybe “green” now but will always make sense far after being GREEN loses fashion.
So what to do with all those unsightly plastic pots? Whether you have an established garden or just starting out; when you buy plants you will have to deal with re-using or disposing of them.
Plastic pots have an endless amount of uses in the garden. So before you just think re-cycle re-think they can save you money before tossing them out:
Seeds eventually become seedlings needing a larger pot; having pots on hand is both convenient and cost-saving.
Small pots make excellent large pot fillers. Place a small pot upside down in a larger one then fill with soil and plant. Container is lighter with less soil used.
Instead of throwing out the cell flats, crumble up and use as a large container filler too. [Or wash and use as packing material.]
Place invasive plants inside of the pot then plant in the ground for keeping them in-check.
Have too many plants? Bought too many? Divide both annuals and perennials using pots to share plants. Don’t have to worry about loaning out your expensive ones.
Don’t have drainage holes in that pretty container? Put plant in a plastic pot then place inside the prettier one. [Don’t forget to pour out any excess water.]
Wish you could afford more expensive containers? Take plastic pots, spray paint assorted colors then add decorative ribbons, beads or sphagnum moss to make appealing.
Don’t like to water? Plastic holds moisture longer so use instead of terra cotta [I still recommend terra cotta for herbs in almost all instances.] Works for indoor/outdoor plants.
Just planted a new plant? Use plastic container as a cloche or shield to protect until established.
Threat of frost? Use containers to cover tender plants. Use 2 pots together to block out holes and create a better insulator.
Weeding. Keep containers around as receptacles when pulling them out.
Use to make compost or save potting soil.
Use small pots as scoops for mulch, fertilizer, etc.
Use to prop up other containers to create different plant levels.
Use to hold garden tools.
Plant below ground level then put smaller pots filled with annuals for easy change-ups.
Storing bulbs or use for overwintering plants.
As you can see the possibilities are endless. These are the pots that cost nothing but continue to save you money over and over again. $$$$$. How Green is that?
5 Gallon Buckets in the Garden
Continuing the discussion of how important the often underestimated 5 gallon buckets at home, we are now revealing how we can make the best use of these pails in the garden.
As pots
Although the appearance of the 5 gallon pails may not look as charming as the real gardening pots, they are highly functional and cheaper. Good quality 5 gallon buckets cost between $ 3 and $ 6; which is nothing compared to gardening pots’ price. With some little preparation, the pails can be turned into flower pots instantly.
All you have to do is to drill the bottom of the 5 gallon buckets with ‚½ or ‚¼-inch holes to allow water drainage. 10 to 15 holes are enough for 5 gallon pails. Next is to fill in the buckets with good quality potting soil and fertilizer. It is now ready to be planted.
If you care about upgrading the look of the modest 5 gallon pails, you may want to put more time before filling in with soil. Get some paint with the color you like, paint the pails, give some accents with different colors of paint, and dry it completely. Remember to paint only on the outer side for vegetables and herbs gardening. You don’t want the vegetables you grow to take the chemical substance of the paint since you will be eating them later.
Another advantage of having 5 gallon buckets garden is that it is extremely practical. You can move the pots wherever and whenever you want. If the growing season is over, you can pile them up and store the soil for the next gardening season, or you can just move them indoor if the plant thrives to survive there. The 5 gallon buckets also make it more difficult for animals like rabbits to destroy your plants.
Now you have not only a cheap way to grow your herbs and plants, but also creative and practical ways too.
As compost containers
Compost plays an important role in the life of a plant. Good homemade compost even plays more important role in the environment. Oddly enough, your plastic 5 gallon pails can help make this happen. As the container of compost making.
First of all, you should drill ‚¼-inch holes around the sides of the bucket. This will allow air circulation and water drainage. Line the bottom of the pail with dry leaves and soil. After that, dump your table scraps like vegetables, napkins, eggshells, coffee grounds or tea bags inside the bucket. Avoid milk and meaty stuff since this could attract vermin. Cover again with dry plant debris and soil. Do one dry layer after the wet one continuously and wait until the 5 gallon pail is filled up. Have a lid to close the pail and let the microorganisms work the compost. Check it out from time to time whether it is too dry or too wet. If it is too dry, add some water and move it to a shadier place. If it is too wet, place it under the sun to dry a little bit. This process takes from several weeks to months to complete.
The better pails to use for homemade composting are the ones in dark colors. Black will be the best. It will absorb more heat for the microorganisms to live under the shade.
If you use 5 gallon buckets in your garden for those purposes mentioned above, you will definitely promote an environment friendly gardening and at the same time save money for a better use at home.
First, what makes up brewed coffee, besides caffeine? Nutrition experts agree that coffee grounds contain magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, copper, manganese and trace amounts of calcium. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are the ingredients necessary for garden soil. They coincide with the figures you see on most garden fertilizer bags. So coffee does have what plants need to grow.
There seems to be some debate about whether or not coffee produces nitrogen. Most agree that coffee grounds contain 1.5 to 2.2% nitrogen. However, some feel that the nitrogen is not available to the soil or the plants until the grounds themselves begin to decompose.
Others say you must compost the coffee grounds with other plants to release the nitrogen in the decomposition process. They recommend adding nitrogen to the soil if using only the grounds. The rotting grounds attract nitrogen-consuming microbes, thus, the need to add nitrogen if using only coffee grounds as a fertilizer.
So to be on the safe side where fertilizing is concerned, you may be better off tossing your coffee grounds along with other compost into the garden in the fall and winter to allow them time to be of best use for spring planting.
When I emptied coffee grounds on top of the soil last fall and spring, I did not include it in a compost. I did use 8 to 10 cubic feet of a peat and compost mixture in the spring that I emptied all over my garden, which is 13 by 33 feet. I turned the soil about 6-8 inches deep before planting. I’ve never had tomatoes produce so much in my four years of gardening.
How does the acid in coffee affect things? The coffee you drink is acidic, but the grounds afterward are closer to neutral on the pH scale. Some argue that they retain their acid level until combined with compost and its microbes, which neutralize it. Either way acid is great if your soil is low in it (alkaline). In the West, where I live, soils are alkaline and getting closer to neutral or increasing the acid content is a good thing for my strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and radishes. Keep in mind that you have to use quite a bit of grounds to make any real difference in the pH scale.
Coffee grounds have other benefits aside from being a fertilizer. They boost the heat in soil better than most composting materials, including manure. These high temperatures kill seeds from weeds or vegetables that may have made their way into the compost pile. If you are thinking about raised beds, consider lining the bottom edges with coffee grounds to prevent weeds from sneaking in.
Other benefits to using coffee grounds in the garden include its ability to attract earthworms, thereby improving soil structure. It even keeps cats from pooping in your garden. (Our neighborhood stray poops along the outside of the garden instead!) If tomato blight is a concern, there are some who think the copper in coffee grounds keeps this at bay.
Coffee grounds are also good at keeping away pests for both inside plants and outside flowers, like hostas, roses, lilies, peonies or those grown from bulbs. The caffeine discourages slugs and snails. You can add about 2 cups of grounds to a 5 gallon jug of water and let it steep overnight. Use it to water plants and don’t be afraid to water the leaves, too.
So whether or not coffee grounds include enough nitrogen to be used as a fertilizer, its pest deterrent qualities and attraction to earthworms has more than sold me on its benefits. If you aren’t a coffee drinker, just ask your local coffee shop if you can have their leftover grounds. It not only helps them dispose of waste, but it also helps create a more abundant, inexpensive and organic garden.
