Creating a vibrant garden that stays beautiful through every season is easier than it sounds. The secret? Low-maintenance perennials. These plants return year after year with little effort, offering steady color and texture without constant replanting. Once you choose the right varieties and place them thoughtfully, your garden almost takes care of itself. Let’s explore some of the best perennials for long-lasting color and learn how to keep them thriving with minimal work.
Why Perennials Are Perfect for Easy Gardening
Perennials are plants that live for more than two years. Unlike annuals, which need replanting every season, perennials settle in and return on their own. Once established, many varieties handle drought, resist pests, and even thrive in poor soil. This means less watering, fewer replacements, and more time enjoying your garden instead of working in it.
Low-maintenance perennials are especially valuable for busy gardeners. They provide structure and reliability, acting as the backbone of your landscape. Even better, many bloom at different times of the year, creating a continuous wave of color.
Planning for Year-Round Color
A garden that shines in every season takes a little planning up front. The key is choosing perennials that bloom at different times and pairing them with plants that have colorful foliage or seed heads. This mix ensures there’s always something interesting happening, even in winter.
Spring: Focus on early bloomers like creeping phlox or columbine. Their flowers bring life after a long winter.
Summer: Introduce bold color with coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, and daylilies.
Fall: Asters and sedum extend the season with late flowers and warm hues.
Winter: Evergreens and ornamental grasses keep the garden lively with texture and structure.
By layering these types, you can create a garden that feels alive all year long.
Perennials for Spring Color
Spring marks the start of the show. After months of cold, early perennials deliver bursts of color that signal warmer days ahead.
Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata)
This low-growing groundcover blankets the garden in carpets of pink, purple, or white flowers. It spreads easily, making it perfect for slopes or edging paths. Once established, it thrives with very little care.
Hellebores (Helleborus orientalis)
Known as Lenten roses, hellebores bloom in late winter to early spring. Their nodding flowers in soft pinks, purples, and creams are a welcome surprise during chilly days. These plants are evergreen and deer-resistant, making them perfect for shady spots.
Columbine (Aquilegia)
Delicate, nodding flowers appear in mid-spring, often in shades of blue, red, or yellow. Columbines reseed themselves and attract hummingbirds, adding life to your garden with little effort.
Perennials for Summer Brilliance
Summer is the season of abundance, and low-maintenance perennials ensure your garden stays lively during the hottest months.
Coneflower (Echinacea)
A true garden staple, coneflowers produce daisy-like blooms in purple, pink, and even orange or white. They are drought-tolerant, loved by pollinators, and bloom for weeks on end.
Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
Golden-yellow petals with dark centers make this plant a cheerful sight in midsummer. Black-eyed Susans are hardy, thrive in poor soil, and continue blooming into fall.
Daylily (Hemerocallis)
Often called the “perfect perennial,” daylilies tolerate neglect, poor soil, and drought. Their trumpet-shaped flowers come in countless colors, and many varieties rebloom later in the season.
Perennials for Fall Beauty
As temperatures cool, certain perennials step into the spotlight, keeping the garden vibrant long after summer’s peak.
Asters (Symphyotrichum spp.)
Asters are fall stars, offering daisy-like flowers in shades of purple, pink, and white. They’re pollinator magnets, especially for migrating butterflies.
Sedum (Sedum spectabile)
Also called stonecrop, sedum thrives in poor soil and full sun. Its succulent leaves turn deep red or bronze in fall, and its clusters of pink flowers transition into rich seed heads that last through winter.
Japanese Anemone (Anemone hupehensis)
Tall stems topped with soft pink or white blooms sway gracefully in autumn breezes. Japanese anemones spread gently over time, filling shady or partially sunny areas with elegance.
Perennials with Winter Interest
Winter doesn’t have to mean a dull garden. Many perennials and ornamental plants provide color and texture even in the coldest months.
Evergreen Heuchera (Coral Bells)
Heucheras are grown for their foliage, which comes in shades of burgundy, silver, and lime green. Their evergreen leaves keep beds colorful through winter and pair beautifully with spring bulbs.
Ornamental Grasses
Grasses like switchgrass or feather reed grass hold their plumes well into winter. Their golden stalks sway in the wind and catch frost beautifully on cold mornings.
Hellebores (Again!)
Because hellebores keep their foliage year-round and bloom early, they bridge the gap between winter and spring, providing color when little else does.
Tips to Keep Perennials Thriving with Minimal Effort
Even the easiest plants benefit from a few simple habits. These steps will keep your garden looking fresh without demanding constant work:
Start with the right plant in the right place. Match sun and soil conditions to what each plant prefers. This single step prevents most problems.
Water deeply but infrequently. Once perennials are established, they need far less water than annuals.
Mulch generously. A layer of mulch suppresses weeds, keeps soil moist, and adds organic matter as it breaks down.
Divide when necessary. Every few years, dig up and split crowded clumps to keep them vigorous and spread color to new areas of the garden.
Leave seed heads in winter. Many seed heads look beautiful against snow and provide food for birds. Cut them back in early spring for fresh growth.
Pairing Perennials with Evergreen Structure
For a garden that truly looks good year-round, pair perennials with evergreens. Shrubs like boxwood, dwarf holly, or juniper keep their shape and color, anchoring the design when flowers fade. This creates a sense of balance and makes the space feel intentional even in the off-season.
Why Low-Maintenance Gardens Matter
Life is busy. Gardens should be a joy, not a chore. By choosing resilient perennials, we create spaces that welcome us instead of demand from us. They save money, reduce waste, and support pollinators year after year. Most of all, they allow us to step outside and simply enjoy the beauty around us.
Welcoming Endless Color to Your Garden
With the right perennials, color never truly leaves your yard. It flows from spring flowers to summer blooms, from autumn tones to winter textures. Each season brings its own personality, yet the garden feels connected and whole. By planting thoughtfully now, you create a living canvas that changes but never fades—a space that gives joy in every month of the year.
Are you ready to start your own organic garden and enjoy fresh, healthy produce right from your backyard? Organic gardening is a rewarding and sustainable way to grow your food, and it’s easier than you think. This beginner’s guide will walk you through all the essential steps, from choosing the right location and preparing the soil to selecting the best plants and controlling pests. With a little planning and effort, you’ll be well on your way to a bountiful harvest of organic vegetables, fruits, and herbs. Let’s get started!
Choose the right location
Choosing the Right Location: A Foundation for Organic Gardening Success
When embarking on your organic gardening journey, selecting the right location for your garden is paramount to its success. Several key factors should be taken into consideration to ensure your plants thrive and produce a bountiful harvest.
Sunlight is essential for photosynthesis, the process by which plants convert sunlight into energy. Most vegetables, fruits, and herbs require at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. Choose a spot in your yard that receives ample sunlight throughout the day, ideally in the morning when the sun’s rays are less intense.
Good drainage is crucial to prevent waterlogging, which can suffocate plant roots and lead to root rot. Inspect the area after heavy rain or watering to assess drainage. If water pools or takes a long time to drain, consider creating raised beds or amending the soil with organic matter to improve drainage.
The microclimate of your chosen location also plays a significant role in plant growth. Factors such as frost pockets, wind exposure, and temperature fluctuations can impact plant survival and productivity. Observe your chosen area over several days to understand its microclimate and select plants accordingly.
In some cases, creating raised beds can be beneficial, especially if your soil has poor drainage or is compacted. Raised beds improve drainage, aeration, and soil temperature, providing an optimal environment for plant growth.
By carefully considering these factors and choosing the right location, you lay the foundation for a thriving organic garden that rewards you with a bountiful harvest of fresh, healthy produce.
Prepare the soil
Preparing the soil is a crucial step in organic gardening, as it provides the foundation for healthy plant growth and a bountiful harvest. Before planting, it’s essential to remove any existing weeds or debris from the garden bed to prevent competition for nutrients and space. This can be done manually by pulling the weeds out by their roots or by using a hoe or weed trimmer. Next, adding compost or well-rotted manure to the soil helps improve its structure, fertility, and water-holding capacity. Compost also introduces beneficial microorganisms that contribute to overall soil health.
Adequate watering is vital for seed germination and plant growth. Deep watering encourages strong root development and helps plants withstand dry spells. However, overwatering should be avoided, as it can lead to root rot and nutrient leaching. Monitoring the soil’s moisture levels and adjusting watering frequency accordingly is essential. Additionally, testing the soil pH is recommended to ensure it falls within the optimal range for the plants you intend to grow. Most vegetables and herbs prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH level between 6.0 and 7.0. Adjusting the soil pH using organic amendments like lime or sulfur can be done if necessary.
By following these soil preparation techniques, you can create an optimal environment for your organic plants to thrive, resulting in a bountiful and healthy harvest.
Choose the right plants
When choosing plants for your organic garden, it’s essential to select varieties that are well-suited to your specific climate and soil conditions. Consider the following factors when making your selections:
**Climate:** Research the USDA plant hardiness zone for your area to determine which plants are likely to thrive in your local climate. Consider factors such as temperature, humidity, and rainfall. Choose plants that are adapted to your specific growing conditions to ensure their success.
**Soil:** Different plants have different soil requirements. Some plants prefer acidic soil, while others prefer alkaline soil. Some plants require well-draining soil, while others can tolerate wet or compacted soil. Test your soil pH and texture to determine which plants are best suited for your garden.
**Pest and disease resistance:** Choose plants that are known to be resistant to common pests and diseases in your area. This will help to reduce the need for chemical pesticides and fungicides, maintaining the organic integrity of your garden.
**Companion planting:** Consider the concept of companion planting, which involves planting different plants together to benefit each other. Some plants, when grown together, can improve soil fertility, deter pests, or attract beneficial insects. Research companion planting techniques to optimize the growth and health of your plants.
**Diversity:** Grow a diverse range of plants to enhance the resilience and sustainability of your garden. Monocultures (growing only one type of plant) can be more susceptible to pests and diseases. By growing a variety of plants, you create a more balanced ecosystem that can better withstand challenges.
By carefully selecting plants that are suited to your climate, soil conditions, and specific needs, you can lay the foundation for a successful and bountiful organic garden.
Organic pest control
methods are essential for protecting your organic garden from pests without resorting to harmful chemicals. Several effective organic pest control methods are available, each with its benefits.
Companion planting involves planting different types of plants together to benefit each other. For example, planting marigolds near tomatoes can help repel pests like aphids and whiteflies.
Neem oil is a natural pesticide derived from the neem tree. It is effective against a wide range of pests, including aphids, mites, and whiteflies. Neem oil can be applied directly to plants or diluted with water and sprayed.
Insecticidal soap is another natural pesticide effective against soft-bodied insects like aphids, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Insecticidal soap can be made at home or purchased from a garden supply store.
Row covers are physical barriers placed over plants to protect them from pests. Row covers can be made of various materials, such as plastic, fabric, or netting.
Beneficial insects are natural predators of pests. Encouraging beneficial insects into your garden can help control pest populations. Beneficial insects include ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps.
By using these organic pest control methods, you can protect your organic garden from pests without harming the environment or your health.
Harvesting and storing your crop
is an important part of organic gardening. It is important to harvest your crops at the right time to ensure the best flavor and nutritional value. You should use sharp tools to avoid damaging the plants and handle your crops carefully to prevent bruising. There are several different ways to preserve your crops, such as canning, freezing, or drying them.
Some methods of preservation are more suitable for certain types of produce. For example, canning is ideal for fruits and vegetables that are high in acidity, such as tomatoes, peaches, and pears. Freezing is a good option for fruits and vegetables that are high in moisture content, such as berries, corn, and peas. Drying is best suited for herbs, spices, and some fruits, such as raisins and apricots.
Canning, freezing, and drying are all great ways to preserve your harvest and enjoy fresh, organic produce all year long. By following these tips, you can ensure that you get the most out of your organic garden.
Planting a garden with ¢â‚¬Å“The Three Sisters Crops¢â‚¬Â is a great way to incorporate Native American gardening practices into your outdoor space. The Three Sisters refers to the traditional companion planting technique of growing corn, squash, and beans together in the same plot. This method was used by many North American Indigenous peoples to ensure the plants worked symbiotically and yielded a larger harvest.
The Three Sisters crops have an interesting history. According to some Native American creation stories, these three crops were given as gifts alongside fire and pottery from their respective creators. Corn, squash, and beans are all easy-to-grow vegetables that thrive in warm climates with plenty of sunshine. Growing them together can also help maximize space since they all take up relatively little room compared to other vegetables such as tomatoes or peppers.
When cultivating the Three Sisters crops in a garden, it is important to remember that each plant has a place in the symbiotic relationship. Corn will provide the climbing pole for the bean plant and is the second crop to harvest. While squash is first to harvest, it prefers slightly cooler conditions of early Spring and will be finished producing before crowded out by the corn and beans. The bean plant will climb up the stalks of the corn, provide nitrogen fixation from the air and finish as the last crop harvested. All three sisters crops should be planted together.
In addition to providing sustenance for human consumption, these three vegetables offer many benefits for wildlife. For example, pollinators such as bees are attracted to the flowers of both corn and squash while birds love snacking on bean seeds when they ripen in late summertime. Planting the Three Sisters together gives back to nature by providing food sources for beneficial creatures like these which can help maintain healthy ecosystems in our gardens year round.
Finally, it¢â‚¬â„¢s worth noting that companion planting isn¢â‚¬â„¢t limited only to these three specific veggies; you can combine any number of compatible species in your garden plot. Experimenting with different combinations may yield additional benefits such as pest control since various plants can contain compounds that ward off insects or attract beneficial predators like ladybugs or lacewings! With this knowledge in hand you can tailor your outdoor space according to your own unique designs while still incorporating an essential aspect of Native American culture into your landscape design¢â‚¬â€a beautiful reminder of our shared history with nature’s gifts!
Native American Gardening: The Three Sisters
The Tall Sister: Corn
Growing corn is a great way to enjoy fresh and delicious sweet corn right off the cob in your own backyard. With its long history of cultivation, growing corn is an easy and rewarding experience for gardeners of all skill levels. As the tall sister, it provides a climbing pole for the bean plant.
When it comes to planting, you will want to find an open sunny area in your yard with plenty of space for your crop. Corn requires around three feet of space between each plant in order to reach full maturity; consider this when deciding how much land you¢â‚¬â„¢ll need to allocate for your crop. For best success, it is recommended that you prepare the soil by tilling it before planting. This ensures any weeds or pests are removed from the soil and helps create a more nutrient-rich environment for your plants to grow. Additionally, make sure that your soil has a pH level between 5.5 and 7.0, as this will help produce the most flavorful kernels that your family can enjoy!
Once prepared, you can begin planting seeds directly into the ground about 1 inch deep every two or three inches apart; be sure not to overplant as overcrowding can reduce yields! Once planted, be sure to keep the soil moist at all times until sprouts appear above ground (about one-two weeks); then reduce waterings down to once per week while making sure they still receive one inch of water each time. If you¢â‚¬â„¢re looking for an added boost of nutrition later on during the growing season, consider using a light fertilizer roughly six weeks after planting; this helps ensure strong growth and increases yields come harvesting time!
As far as selecting varieties go, there are four main types: standard (su), supersweet (sh2), low-sugar/starch (se) and small-kerneled (sd). Standard varieties have traditional corny flavor yet may not retain their sugar content as long after harvest; supersweet varieties offer extra sweetness but may not be as vigorous during growth; low-sugar/starch varieties have lower sugar content but greater starchiness; whereas small kerneled varieties are smaller in size with higher sugar content but lower yield potential overall. Be sure to pick the variety that suits your needs best for maximum enjoyment in the garden!
Finally, come harvesting time ¢â‚¬â€œ usually about two months after sowing ¢â‚¬â€œ check ears regularly every few days by feeling them through their husks: if they feel plump and firm when gently squeezed then they¢â‚¬â„¢re ripe! Once harvested, eat them fresh off the cob within a few days¢â‚¬â€œ if not sooner¢â‚¬â€œto ensure optimal flavor and texture before they start losing their sweetness due to starchy conversion.
Overall, growing corn is an enjoyable experience both in terms of tending its development over time as well as ultimately savoring its delicious rewards at harvest time! By following these steps outlined above – along with some additional research – you can bring sweet corn straight from farm-to-table right in your own backyard!
The Short Sister: Squash
Growing squash is a great way to get delicious, healthy vegetables and can be done relatively easily – even by beginner gardeners! Squash plants are easy to grow, require minimal care and maintenance, and can be grown in both summer and winter.
When it comes to growing squash, the most important thing to consider is location. Choose a spot that gets plenty of sunlight throughout the day and also has well-drained soil. To increase your chances of success, add compost or fertilizer to enrich the soil before planting. Make small mounds around where you plan on planting the squash to ensure proper drainage around the plant.
If sowing from seeds, make sure to sow four or five seeds a few inches apart in each mound. Once the seedlings begin emerging, thin out any excess so that only one or two plants remain per mound – this will give them enough space for proper growth and development. If purchasing seedlings from a nursery instead of starting from seed, simply transplant them into the prepared mounds.
In terms of care and maintenance, squash plants don’t require much attention after they have been planted. Water when necessary – usually once every one or two weeks depending on weather conditions – but avoid over-watering as it can lead to fungal diseases. Mulching around the plant can help retain moisture during dry spells too. You can also fertilize lightly once or twice during the season if desired; just make sure not to over-fertilize as this can lead to excessive vegetative growth (which means fewer flowers which leads to fewer fruits).
Harvesting squash is simple — just wait until they reach their desired size then pick them off either right away or store them for use later in the year if needed. Knowing when exactly to harvest depends on what type of squash you’re growing; some types are meant for eating when young while others are best picked when more mature and full sized (for example pumpkins). In either case it’s best not to leave any fruits on the vine for too long since they will eventually start rotting and attract pests/diseases which could damage your crop further down the line.
Overall, growing squash is an easy way for gardeners of all levels of experience to enjoy fresh produce with very little effort required! With some basic knowledge about where/when/how to plant them plus regular watering/mulching/fertilizing (if needed), you should have no problem producing a healthy crop of tasty winter or summer squash each year!
The Other Sister: Beans
Beans are one of the most popular vegetables grown in gardens, and with good reason ¢â‚¬â€œ they¢â‚¬â„¢re easy to grow, require little maintenance and are highly nutritious. Not to mention that beans can be used for a variety of dishes, from soups and salads to stews and side dishes. Whether you choose pole or climbing beans, you can have a bumper crop of these tasty veggies in no time!
Before getting started, it¢â‚¬â„¢s important to understand a few basics about bean growing. One key factor is soil temperature ¢â‚¬â€œ beans prefer soil temperatures between 65‚°F (18‚°C) and 75‚°F (23‚°C). Soil should be well-draining but still moist. If your soil is too wet, your plants won¢â‚¬â„¢t do as well. It¢â‚¬â„¢s also important to keep weeds away; when left alone, they will consume the nutrients meant for your bean plants.
If you¢â‚¬â„¢re new to growing beans, you may not know that there are two main types: pole beans and climbing beans. Pole beans need a trellis or support structure to grow up; this helps them stay upright and gives them something to climb on as they reach for sunlight. Climbing beans don’t require a support structure since they use their long tendrils to attach themselves onto whatever is available ¢â‚¬â€ like fences or posts ¢â‚¬â€ as they grow upward. Both types need space between each plant so that air can circulate freely; otherwise, heat can build up around the plants which can lead to disease issues.
Legumes are an essential part of any garden because of their nitrogen-fixing capabilities. Legumes create a symbiotic relationship with bacteria called rhizobia that live inside nodules on the roots of the bean plant; this process is known as nitrogen fixation. The root provides food for the bacteria while the bacteria convert atmospheric nitrogen into ammonia which can then be absorbed by the plant and converted into nitrate ¢â‚¬â€œ a form plants can use more efficiently than atmospheric nitrogen alone. Nitrogen is an essential nutrient for healthy plant growth so having legumes in your garden is hugely beneficial!
Harvesting times will vary depending on what type of bean you¢â‚¬â„¢ve chosen; some varieties take 59 days while others take 79 days or more before they’re ready for picking! When picking your beans, make sure that they¢â‚¬â„¢re firm with no soft spots or discoloration; this indicates that they might be past their prime quality-wise and should probably be composted instead! Store freshly picked beans in an air-tight container either in your fridge or freezer¢â‚¬â€this will help protect them from spoiling quickly so you can enjoy them later!
Growing your own beans at home has many benefits including getting fresh veggies straight from your garden as well as providing valuable nitrogen fixation for other non-legume crops surrounding them. There are two main types¢â‚¬â€pole and climbing¢â‚¬â€that all require adequate spacing between each plant and some kind of support if needed like a trellis for pole varieties. When harvested correctly at peak ripeness, store them properly for maximum shelf life enjoyment later down the line!
Shrubs are a useful asset to any garden. They add height and architectural interest. Evergreen shrubs added to herbaceous borders can give substance to a border and hold interest during winter months when most perennials die down. For the most part they are hardy and easy to maintain, requiring little pruning, and long lived. Here is a guide to a few of my favorite shrubs which will add interest to a garden at different times of the year.
Shrubs for a winter garden
Hamamelis or Witch Hazel has to be a favorite to add winter interest to any garden. It is a winter flowering shrub with spidery flowers and a spicy scent. Flowers come in shades of yellow, orange and reds. Witch Hazel will thrive in any garden but an open sunny position is best. It is quite a large shrub and can grow up to 4m in height. They require little pruning, especially if you have the room to let them grow to their full potential. Just remove any dead or diseased wood. They also have few problems with disease, but look out for honey fungus and vine weevil larvae amongst those grown in containers. Particularly good varieties include Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Barmstedt Gold’ with bright yellow flowers and Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Diane’ with its rich red spidery flowers.
Daphne is one of the best shrubs you can buy for winter scent. It flowers in January/February and has scented pink or white flowers. This shrub is very hardy and can grow up to 2m in height. They grow very well in borders and also in semi-woodland areas. Place them near to paths where their fragrance can be easily enjoyed. But beware, once planted they do not like to be moved. Daphne prefers a well-drained lime-free soil in a sunny spot, although it will tolerate semi-shade. They have few problems, but watch out for aphids and leaf spot. Two lovely varieties include Daphne bholua which has high scent pinkish white flowers, and Daphne odora ‘Aureomarginata’ which has pretty evergreen leaves and fragrant white flowers.
There are some shrubby climbers you can buy to add winter color to deciduous trees. Lonicera standishii ‘Budapest’ is one such example. Semi-evergreen this shrubby honeysuckle has many scented pink-tinged white flowers in mid-winter, followed by red berries. It will grow up to 2m in height and prefers a sheltered position.
Shrubs for spring
Camellias are probably one of the most popular shrubs for early spring flowers. They can be problematic as they need acidic soil, but they can easily be grown in containers in the right compost. Because Camellias are native woodland plants, they grow best in shade or semi-shade. They prefer free-draining conditions with plenty of organic matter and can grow up to 3m in height. Perhaps the main problem for Camellias is frost which can damage flowers. A Good variety is Camellia x williamsii ‘Saint Ewe’ which has rose-pink flowers from January to April and seems to be quite resistant to frost. Azaleas are beautiful spring flowering shrubs. Growing in sun or shade in well-drained soil, varieties can grow up to 15ft and have flowers ranging from white to deep purple/pink. Azalea ‘Adonis’ has gorgeous white flowers in May and grows up to 75cm. Azalea ‘Aladdin’ also flowers in May but has strong red flowers. You just can’t ignore the gorgeous yellow flowers of Forsythia in early spring. It can be grown as a stand-alone specimen or as part of a border and is a useful shrub for hedging. It likes moist but well-drained soil but will grow well anywhere. Forsythia x intermedia ‘Spectabilis’ is a vigorous variety which has deep yellow flowers from mid to late spring and grows up to 300cm in height. Kerria Japonica or Japanese Yellow Rose is another spring flowering shrub with sunny yellow flowers. Varieties can have either single or double flowers. It is suitable for a border or a woodland garden and grows to around 2m in height. Pieris Japonica is an all-year-round shrub, with attractive foliage in summer and slightly fragrant clusters of bell-shaped white, pink or red flowers in early spring. They can be grown in a shrub border but are just as at home in garden planters. ‘Mountain Fire’ has particularly attractive glossy red leaves.
Summer flowering shrubs
Hydrangea is a deciduous shrub that can suit any type of garden. There are many varieties that are divided up into two main groups. ‘Lacecaps’ that have flattened flower heads, and ‘Hortensias’ that have spherical flower heads of large flowers. Flower colors range from pinks to blues. He more acidic the soil, the bluer the flower will be. Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’ is a spectacular variety, with large conical blooms from July to September which open in a soft shade of pea green and gradually change to cream and finally a delicate soft pink as they mature. It will grow to up to 250cm. Hibiscus syriacus, also called Rose of Sharon, is a deciduous flowering shrub that can reach a height of around 4m. It likes very warm conditions in full sun where it displays an abundance of attractive white, pink, red, lavender, or purple flowers. It is an easy plant to grow as it develops quickly once planted and doesn’t mind being moved. Buddleja’s are also very easy to grow. They like well drained soil and plenty of sunshine. Their flowers of pink to blue/purple provide a summer spectacle in August when they are covered in butterflies which feed on their nectar. They do require hard pruning in spring to encourage plenty of new growth. ‘Pink Delight’ has conical spikes of claret buds opening to produce lovely, orange-eyed flowers in a strong pink.
Shrubs for autumn interest
Euonymus can be deciduous or evergreen shrubs or small trees, often with fine autumn color. The leaves of Euonymus alatus turn a beautiful rosy-crimson in autumn. It is very hardy and grows up to 2.5m in height and spread. Cotinus or Smoke Tree is a true delight. They are large deciduous shrubs or small trees whose leaves produce wonderful autumn color from yellow to deep reds. Very hardy, they have a bushy habit and can grow up to 8m in height. Berberis can also be large deciduous shrubs or small trees with spiny shoots bearing tiny leaves. Berberis thunbergii has leaves that turn a deep orange/red in autumn followed by red fruit. It has an ultimate height and spread of around 1.5m and is therefore suitable form most gardens.
Flower gardens are extremely wonderful to look at. More so if you are the one who is taking care of the flower garden – it will truly be one relaxing experience to see all your hard work in full bloom.
So, for those who have tried in vain to get their flower garden in tip-top shape might want to follow some of these simple rules:
First things first, remember that to able to give great care to your flower garden, it must get the basics. Sunlight, water and a good soil are the most essential components to get nice blooms. A plant would need around six hours of sunlight each day and regular watering. A good soil can be maintained by adding fertilizer from time to time.
Second, you can mix up your garden. Perennials are the types of plants that can last for more than two seasons while annuals can last up to a single season only. Mixing them up in your garden would assure you that you have some blooms to wait for each time.
Third, deadheading is also important. Flowers need to be trimmed when they wither. This will encourage more flowers to bloom and besides, dead flowers will not make your garden attractive. Also, make sure that you do not leave the trimmings in your flower garden as it can attract insects or may cause diseases to your plants.
Fourth, harmful bugs are different from the helpful ones. There are many types of insects that you should encourage into your flower garden. There are those that help decompose the soil and thus provide nutrients to the plants in your garden. There are also other insects that feed off on the smaller insects that could destroy your plants. Also, insects like butterflies and bees help in spreading pollen of one plant to another. They also make great additional accessories and can make your garden look more colorful and lively.
It is not very hard to take care of the flower garden. The basics and a little pampering once in awhile is all it takes to ensure that they keep producing wonderful blooms for your eyes to watch in awe.
With most of us living in concrete jungles, having a garden in your home can be considered nothing short of lucky! From a small flowerbed to a large lush green space, there is a lot you can do with your garden that helps put your own personal stamp on it. From installing garden ornaments to adding outdoor lighting, you are only limited by your imagination.
Plants of various colors and shapes add to the beauty of your garden. Think green holly, ivy or fuchsia. Consider enhancing the place further by creating live ornaments from plants. Prune them into columns and craft hedges that have everyone in awe. In fact you can enhance the look of the garden by creating an archway with plants such as draped wisteria vines. Alternately consider flanking the garden gates with bougainvillea. There will be many people wanting to get a sneak peek into this haven!
You could also consider a whole lot of other ornaments as a garden decor idea. A wrought-iron gate, a lantern or an iron bell hung on a tree, a bench are great outdoor accessories that add to the appeal. You can also repurpose old items such as those metal watering cans that make for lovely planters or those antique dresser drawers that add oodles of style. Pro tip-Ensure that all the decor elements are subtly placed though, so the garden doesn’t look too contrived or overdone.
Add charm to regular terracotta pots by doing them up in vibrant paint. You can also create a mosaic on those pots with broken ceramic pieces. They add loads of color and texture to your garden. If you run out of space, you can also look at creating a vertical garden with spray painted cans hung on a fence with lovely blooms.
Give your creativity free reign as you think of the garden furniture. You can turn a workbench into a place to display greenery as also a great venue for those potluck parties. Opt for a small table that adds a dash of color with a corner flower vase and just enough space to enjoy that morning cuppa. Outdoor lighting is another aspect that lends oodles of style to your garden. Go in for those bistro lights and savor their warm glow. Alternately you can also hang outdoor lanterns or those spring lights. The romance that they add to the garden is indescribable.
With a garden as charming as this, you certainly would want some privacy to be able to enjoy this calm haven. Opt for artificial plant wall coverings that are awfully easy to install and yet look like real foliage. That it is low on maintenance, is an added perk. You can also add to the charm with other artificial plant decor. Tree ferns and other colorful buds kept in beautiful pots create one enchanting space. Whoever said you need a green thumb to maintain a garden, hadn’t heard of these artificial plants.
When organic matter has finished decomposing the end result is compost. Although there are many types of organic matter such as manure, leaves, garden waste and kitchen scraps etc. although there are many types of composting organic matter will eventually do its job with or without you.
Composting does not have be a difficult task, most people can achieve quick results it’s just a matter of managing your time properly. If you want your compost to be ready faster then let’s get started.
To start we will use kitchen and garden waste. The only materials required at this time are a shovel or pitchfork. If you do not know where to build your compost pile there are compost bins or tumblers that you can use. In this case we will just use the ground but in the future a bin is more effective and keeps unwanted animals from your site.
Make sure that the compost is a safe distance from the house. All you need now are the ingredients. In the house you can start to collect kitchen scraps in a large coffee can or you may even use a large pail with a lid. You know when to take the scraps to your compost when you start to smell an odor. Make sure not to mix the compost too much, start out by mixing the compost once a week or less. This will speed up the process your compost needs to complete itself.
Try to obtain grass clippings and leaves for your compost. Leaves will provide carbon and your kitchen scraps will provide nitrogen. Try to stay away from scraps that are oily or greasy this will only attract unwanted pests. The best things for your compost are egg shells, coffee grinds, tea bags, bones and even hair. Many baseball diamonds have used hair to get their grass started. Undertake if possible a search for green manure if you can, if not regular steer manure will do.
Once the organic matter has finished decomposing your will know by the texture and smell. When your compost has a strong odor your will know that it is not getting enough oxygen. If the end result smells woodsy or earthy then your compost is complete.
If you are concerned that you are using too much compost then stop worrying as your soil will never reject the amount that you use. The end result should be a proud yard, garden or plant you can enjoy.
Improving Soil with Compost
Soil modification is a key ingredient for how to start a garden. The content and texture of your soil is critical. To have a successful garden, you will need to have good soil. The best soil is not sandy, and it’s not too much like clay. It needs to be able to drain adequately, but hang on to enough moisture so that your plants don’t go thirsty. Too much sand and the water runs off, too much clay and you drown your plants. You may need to modify your soil before you start your garden.
If your soil sticks together, it’s too much like clay and you will need to amend it. If your soil is too sandy, meaning it won’t hardly stick together at all, you will also need to amend it. The way that you amend both kinds of soil is to add organic matter, or compost.
Luckily, organic matter is nothing more than plant or animal matter that is decomposing. The easiest way that you can add organic matter to your soil is to add compost or apply mulch. If you have a heavy clay like soil, it’s best to add manure, or green plant material since they break down more rapidly, instead of peat moss, straw or shredded bark, because they don’t break down as quickly. Even if you have good soil adding compost is always a good idea.
Adding compost to clay like soil makes it more pliable and improves its ability allow water to flow through. Sandy soil doesn’t have enough organic matter, so adding large amounts helps to give sandy soil a better ability to hold water. Large amounts of organic matter are likely to be needed to make your soil suitable. You will usually want to use a ratio of 2 to 1 compost to soil for it to be effective.
Air, water, minerals, and organic matter are all components of healthy soil. There are benefits of adding decomposed matter to good soil, in addition to compensating for poor soil like sand or clay, and that is it adds carbon, which promotes good bacteria growth, and it is more likely that you will have hearty plants.
You can’t have too much compost. In fact, you shouldn’t till your soil more than once or twice a year after you have worked in appropriate amounts of organic matter. This is because as the soil is turned, oxygen is added and it feeds the microbial activity that breaks down the organic matter. So if you don’t till it, it slows down the destruction of your organic matter.
If you invest the time to make sure you soil is healthy it will pay dividends when it comes to growing your garden.
You can compost for nothing ( zero pounds / dollars) by piling your garden and food waste up in a corner. How do you decide whether to pay 20, 60, 140 or even 900 pounds (yes really!) for a compost bin? You ‘justify’ the cash by convincing yourself of the ‘value’. We show you how to do this by checking the composting features meet your needs at a price you can afford.
Sounds like hard work – why not just go online, look for a 5 star ratings and best price – job done. Almost all the online reviews look like this “arrived/did not arrive on time (score 1-5), it was easy/hard to set up (score 1-5). I’d let you know how it works! The all important bit is missing – few return 12 months to let you know if it worked and how well.
We can summarize the process of how do choose the ‘right compost bin’ or the ‘best compost bin’ for you into seven steps:
Step 1 – WHY – define your goals
Step 2- WHERE – review your available space and site for the bin
Step 3 – WHAT & WHEN – how much garden and food waste you produce
Step 4 – EFFORT – how much time and effort you are willing to invest
Step 5 – HOW – which method (ex. hot, cold, digesters, vermicompost) and which bin features are essential and which are nice to have (ex. low odor, no rats, no flies, handle all food waste, kills pathogens, kills weed seeds)?
Step 6 – CHECK – build a feature list
Step 7 – MATCH – which compost bin will deliver the best price / performance
Before we go any further, let’s consider your time and effort to read this article. You might have the time and interest in composting to fully research the topic – if so read the detail below), but many will just want a ‘fast track’ to help them make a quick decision with a degree of confidence that they are choosing a one that will work.
The fast track
Read between the lines of the vendor marketing hype (that’s the polite term!).
Seek user recommendations. Ignore the ‘arrived/did not arrive’ on time, ‘easy/hard’ to assemble. Look for reviews that state “It works, it does what it says, I have great compost out fast, worth every penny, best compost bin used in 20 years.
Validate vendor promises (ex. compost in 7-days). Look for detailed scientific study from reputable independent organization that supports the claim. Walk away if nothing.
Check vendor ability – do they offer in-depth hands-on composting advice or just regurgitate the ‘list of things to compost’ that only applies to ‘cold’ composting? Look for advice that explains hot versus cold composting, how long it takes in each situation an why it differs when hot composting.
Look for vendors with ability in composting science & engineering. Composting obeys the laws of nature such as heat loss & cooling, rates/speed of biochemical reactions. You do not need to know about the science and engineering of composting – but I believe your compost bin vendor should.
For those who want to look into the detail, here is a little more depth around the seven steps to help you choose a compost bin
Step 1 – Consider your composting goals
Do you want to make lots of rich/great compost for your garden that will improve its fertility and cut down how much fertilizer and maybe even peat you use?
Do you just want to keep the garden tidy?
Do you want to make a more positive contribution to the environment by recycling all your food waste so your local council no longer has to collect and transport it to landfill?
Are you just fed up with allocating more and more of your flower or vegetable patch to overflowing compost bins that never seem to do anything?
What are your goals on sustainability, organic gardening, good use of limited resources.
Step 2 – Review your available space and site for the compost bin
Some compost bins need a certain site (ex. a sunny spot, or the opposite keep in the shade’, ‘only use on soil’, ‘do not use on clay soil’. You may have very little choice (ex. it needs to go on the concrete by the garage). Your site may limit your compost bin choice.
You might have a small garden and no space for a large compost bin, conversely you might have very large garden and taking 9 square feet for a traditional 3-bay compost bin system might pose no issues.
Do you want to the compost bin close to the kitchen so you can pop out easily in the rain to empty your food caddy?
Step 3 – Review the volume of garden and food waste you produce
Are you just going to compost seasonal garden waste (summer/autumn)
Do you want to compost grass cuttings (spring, summer, autumn)
Do you want to compost food waste – produced all year-round – ie compost through winter
How much of each type of waste do you have? In my experience, very few garden composters or food waste recyclers accurately know how many pounds of waste they produce. Very few want to record and measure it either. Choosing the right compost bin size is also further complicated as compost bins can (given the right conditions ‘hot compost’). Hot compost 32 times faster than a competitor bin that only facilitates ‘cold composting. So 5 gallons of waste a week in one bin would rapidly break down within a week, but in another bin build up over time and need a 100 gallon bin.
Step 4 – Consider if you want to ‘hot’ or ‘cold’ compost?
The headline benefits of ‘hot’ composting over ‘cold’ composting are:
Hot composting will destroy weed seeds – saving you time and effort in future
Hot composting will destroy dangerous bacteria – you can compost all food waste
Hot composting requires far less space to compost the same amount of waste
Hot composting requires dramatically less time (ex. 30 days Vs 360 days)
Hot composting works all year-round (cold heaps stop in winter below 5C)
Step 5 – How much time and effort you are willing to spend on composting
This is hard – everyone tends to answer – ‘none / minimal’. The more a vendor knows this is critical to your choice, the more pressure to use the term ‘easy’ and the bigger the potential expectation gap and likely hood of user disappointment. There is always some effort (ex. collecting food, turning, mixing, shredding). In our experience, it is easier when you follow simple steps. Investing the time to form habits is challenging – especially at the start when people perceive the habits are taking more time not saving time.
So, now you have a clear picture of what you want. Next, how do you check and match the compost bin against your composting goals?
Step 6 – Build a compost bin feature list
Build a feature list, find the top 10 commercial bins, score each feature, ignore those compost bins that do not fit your needs to produce a short list; then weight/score the remaining compost bins to find the best match.
Step 7 – Assess which compost bin will deliver the best price/performance
Score each compost bin against each feature to find the overall value for money score – the million dollar question!
Commercial Product managers do this kind of work as their day job – but it is likely very few composters, gardeners or food waste recyclers have the time or inclination to do this. Follow our link to the ‘compost bin competitive evaluation sheet’. You will find 12 widely available compost bins types and brands analyzed. You can play around with the scores and weighting to see which you think is best.
Healthy garden soil is teeming with life: there are earthworms and micro-organisms by the millions, each with a particular function in making soil fertile. Like any living thing, the soil must have food. Without food, the life in soil either leaves or dies. Eventually, the garden itself weakens and dies.
Soil life eats organic matter, decomposing it and creating a crucial soil element called humus. Humus is decayed organic material. The process of decomposition releases nutrients in forms that plants can absorb. In other words, decomposition of organic material has a fertilizing effect.
But fertility is only part of the value of regularly feeding the soil with organic material. Humus also contributes to the sponge-like soil texture that allows air circulation and moisture retention. Loam — the ideal soil for growing plants – is a balanced mixture of sand, clay, silt, and organic matter. Humus will bind sandy soil or loosen hard-packed clay.
For these beneficial results (for fertility and texture), the life in soil needs fresh food. Regular doses of organic material will ensure that garden dirt is enhanced rather than depleted over the lifetime of the garden. Every year, a 30 by 40 foot garden needs around 400 pounds (equivalent to 10 bales of hay) of organic material, but it doesn’t need to be added all at once.
Additions of organic material take a variety of forms. For starters, chop garden residues into the soil: weeds, mulch, and plants left after harvest. Hauling in compost by the yard from nurseries or hauling animal manures from nearby farms is also an option. But the easiest and most cost effective method of continuous additions of organic material is to grow cover crops, also known as green manures.
Cover crops are grown and tilled into the soil, replenishing rather than removing nutrients. Even in a small garden, this is an effective method when a harvest crop and a green manure are grown in rotation. For instance, plant a late summer green manure after an early crop such as peas or broccoli.
Some suggestions for cover crops include legumes, buckwheat, and rye grass.
Legumes such as peas and soybeans fix atmospheric nitrogen into the soil when inoculated seeds that attract certain micro-organisms are used. In addition, these legumes are vegetables, making a single planting both a harvest crop and a green manure.
For bulk and quick growth, rye grass or other annual grains are good choices. In colder climates these are especially good cover crops for the end of summer because they die over the winter and are easy to till in the spring. For the poorest soils, buckwheat is most useful.
Green manures can work with or without using powered equipment, but in larger gardens a rotor-tiller certainly makes the process easier. In smaller gardens, the question of whether it makes financial sense to invest in renting or buying a rotor-tiller has to be weighed against the cost of hauling in compost and animal manures.
Either way – hauling or tilling – some form of additional organic material beyond chopping in garden residues must happen in order for the soil to function and for the plants it supports to thrive.
