Gardening is more than planting seeds and watching them grow. It’s about creating a space that feels alive. A place where plants, soil, water, and wildlife work together. Native plants are the key to making this happen. They connect your garden to the land’s history and support life in ways exotic plants never can. When you choose native plants, you create a thriving, eco-friendly garden that takes care of itself and everything around it.
This guide will show you why native plants matter, how to choose the right ones, and how to grow them so they flourish in your own backyard.
Why Native Plants Matter
Native plants are species that have grown in a region for thousands of years. They’ve adapted to the local soil, rainfall, and wildlife. Because of this, they offer huge benefits to your garden and the world beyond it.
Support for Local Wildlife
Butterflies, bees, birds, and other wildlife evolved alongside native plants. These plants provide food, shelter, and nesting materials that non-native plants can’t always match. A native flower feeds the right pollinator at the right time. A native shrub offers berries just when migrating birds need energy.
Less Water, Less Work
Because they’re already suited to your climate, native plants often need less water and fewer fertilizers than exotic plants. They grow with what nature gives them. This makes them perfect for busy gardeners who want beauty without constant upkeep.
Healthier Soil and Ecosystem
Native plant roots reach deep into the ground. They hold soil in place, prevent erosion, and filter rainwater before it flows into streams and rivers. Over time, they help rebuild healthy soil and create a balanced ecosystem in your yard.
A Connection to Place
Planting natives ties your garden to your region’s natural history. It reflects the landscapes that existed before roads, cities, and lawns. This connection can feel deeply rewarding—like bringing a piece of your local wilderness home.
Choosing the Right Native Plants
Not all native plants are the same. Some thrive in shade, others need full sun. Some prefer sandy soil, others love clay. Picking the right plants for your conditions ensures success and less work later.
Study Your Region
Every region has its own set of native plants. Learn about your local ecosystems—prairies, woodlands, wetlands, or deserts. Local extension offices, native plant societies, and botanical gardens are great resources. They can help you find plant lists specific to your area.
Match Plants to Your Yard
Observe your garden space for a week. Notice where the sun hits. Watch how water drains after rain. Feel the soil—sandy, loamy, or heavy with clay. Choose native plants that naturally thrive under those conditions.
Plan for Seasons
Select plants that bloom or fruit at different times of the year. This creates a steady food supply for pollinators and keeps your garden beautiful from spring to fall. For winter interest, include evergreens or plants with striking seed heads.
Preparing Your Garden for Natives
Good preparation sets the stage for long-term success. Native plants are low maintenance once established, but they appreciate a good start.
Remove Invasive Plants
Many yards have invasive plants that compete with natives for space and nutrients. Before planting, remove aggressive species like English ivy, Japanese honeysuckle, or kudzu. This gives your new natives room to grow.
Improve the Soil Naturally
Native plants don’t need rich, heavily fertilized soil. In fact, too much fertilizer can harm them. Instead, add organic matter like compost or leaf mulch to improve soil structure and water retention.
Plan Natural Groupings
Instead of planting in rigid rows, group native plants as they would grow in the wild. Clumps of three or five plants create a natural look and help pollinators find food more easily.
Planting Native Species
Planting natives is simple but timing and method matter.
Best Time to Plant
The best time to plant native perennials, shrubs, and trees is in fall or early spring. This allows roots to establish before summer heat or winter freezes.
Planting Steps
Dig the Right Hole Make the hole twice as wide as the plant’s root ball but no deeper. Native plants prefer sitting at the same level they grew in the nursery.
Loosen Roots If the roots are circling, gently tease them apart so they spread outward.
Backfill with Native Soil Use the soil you removed from the hole. Avoid adding fertilizers or rich amendments.
Water Well Give the plant a deep drink to settle the soil around the roots.
Mulch Lightly Add a thin layer of mulch to hold moisture and reduce weeds, but keep it away from the plant’s base.
Caring for Native Plants
Native plants are known for being low-maintenance, but they still need attention during their first year.
Watering
Water deeply once a week during the first growing season. After they’re established, most natives survive on rainfall alone.
Mulching
Reapply mulch each spring to suppress weeds and hold moisture. Use natural materials like shredded leaves or bark.
Pruning and Clean-Up
Cut back dead stems in late winter or early spring. Leave seed heads through fall and winter for birds to enjoy.
Creating Habitat with Natives
Native gardens are more than plants—they are living habitats.
Add Layers
Combine groundcovers, shrubs, and trees to create layers. This mimics natural ecosystems and provides shelter for wildlife at every level.
Include Water Sources
A simple birdbath or shallow dish with stones helps pollinators and birds stay hydrated.
Provide Nesting Sites
Leave some leaf litter and fallen branches. These natural materials give insects and small animals places to live and hide.
Benefits Beyond Your Backyard
Growing native plants is a personal act with big ripple effects.
More Pollinators: Butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds return to feed and thrive.
Cleaner Water: Native plant roots filter stormwater before it enters rivers and lakes.
Less Pollution: You’ll use fewer chemicals and less water, helping the environment.
Community Impact: Your garden can inspire neighbors to plant natives too.
When enough people plant native species, entire neighborhoods transform into thriving ecosystems.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even with natives, there are pitfalls to watch out for.
Planting Non-Local Natives: A plant can be native to the U.S. but not to your region. Always check its natural range.
Overwatering: Once established, most natives don’t like soggy soil.
Crowding Plants: Give each plant space to mature without choking its neighbors.
Ignoring Invasive Weeds: Stay vigilant about removing weeds that sneak in.
A Garden That Gives Back
Native plant gardening is about partnership. You work with the land instead of against it. Over time, your yard becomes more than a garden. It becomes a refuge—for you, for wildlife, and for the generations that follow.
Where Beauty Meets Balance
When you plant native species, you join a movement that restores balance to the earth. Your garden becomes part of something larger—a living thread in the fabric of your region’s ecosystem. And the best part? You get to enjoy a space that’s beautiful, resilient, and full of life every single day.
Creating a vibrant garden that stays beautiful through every season is easier than it sounds. The secret? Low-maintenance perennials. These plants return year after year with little effort, offering steady color and texture without constant replanting. Once you choose the right varieties and place them thoughtfully, your garden almost takes care of itself. Let’s explore some of the best perennials for long-lasting color and learn how to keep them thriving with minimal work.
Why Perennials Are Perfect for Easy Gardening
Perennials are plants that live for more than two years. Unlike annuals, which need replanting every season, perennials settle in and return on their own. Once established, many varieties handle drought, resist pests, and even thrive in poor soil. This means less watering, fewer replacements, and more time enjoying your garden instead of working in it.
Low-maintenance perennials are especially valuable for busy gardeners. They provide structure and reliability, acting as the backbone of your landscape. Even better, many bloom at different times of the year, creating a continuous wave of color.
Planning for Year-Round Color
A garden that shines in every season takes a little planning up front. The key is choosing perennials that bloom at different times and pairing them with plants that have colorful foliage or seed heads. This mix ensures there’s always something interesting happening, even in winter.
Spring: Focus on early bloomers like creeping phlox or columbine. Their flowers bring life after a long winter.
Summer: Introduce bold color with coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, and daylilies.
Fall: Asters and sedum extend the season with late flowers and warm hues.
Winter: Evergreens and ornamental grasses keep the garden lively with texture and structure.
By layering these types, you can create a garden that feels alive all year long.
Perennials for Spring Color
Spring marks the start of the show. After months of cold, early perennials deliver bursts of color that signal warmer days ahead.
Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata)
This low-growing groundcover blankets the garden in carpets of pink, purple, or white flowers. It spreads easily, making it perfect for slopes or edging paths. Once established, it thrives with very little care.
Hellebores (Helleborus orientalis)
Known as Lenten roses, hellebores bloom in late winter to early spring. Their nodding flowers in soft pinks, purples, and creams are a welcome surprise during chilly days. These plants are evergreen and deer-resistant, making them perfect for shady spots.
Columbine (Aquilegia)
Delicate, nodding flowers appear in mid-spring, often in shades of blue, red, or yellow. Columbines reseed themselves and attract hummingbirds, adding life to your garden with little effort.
Perennials for Summer Brilliance
Summer is the season of abundance, and low-maintenance perennials ensure your garden stays lively during the hottest months.
Coneflower (Echinacea)
A true garden staple, coneflowers produce daisy-like blooms in purple, pink, and even orange or white. They are drought-tolerant, loved by pollinators, and bloom for weeks on end.
Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)
Golden-yellow petals with dark centers make this plant a cheerful sight in midsummer. Black-eyed Susans are hardy, thrive in poor soil, and continue blooming into fall.
Daylily (Hemerocallis)
Often called the “perfect perennial,” daylilies tolerate neglect, poor soil, and drought. Their trumpet-shaped flowers come in countless colors, and many varieties rebloom later in the season.
Perennials for Fall Beauty
As temperatures cool, certain perennials step into the spotlight, keeping the garden vibrant long after summer’s peak.
Asters (Symphyotrichum spp.)
Asters are fall stars, offering daisy-like flowers in shades of purple, pink, and white. They’re pollinator magnets, especially for migrating butterflies.
Sedum (Sedum spectabile)
Also called stonecrop, sedum thrives in poor soil and full sun. Its succulent leaves turn deep red or bronze in fall, and its clusters of pink flowers transition into rich seed heads that last through winter.
Japanese Anemone (Anemone hupehensis)
Tall stems topped with soft pink or white blooms sway gracefully in autumn breezes. Japanese anemones spread gently over time, filling shady or partially sunny areas with elegance.
Perennials with Winter Interest
Winter doesn’t have to mean a dull garden. Many perennials and ornamental plants provide color and texture even in the coldest months.
Evergreen Heuchera (Coral Bells)
Heucheras are grown for their foliage, which comes in shades of burgundy, silver, and lime green. Their evergreen leaves keep beds colorful through winter and pair beautifully with spring bulbs.
Ornamental Grasses
Grasses like switchgrass or feather reed grass hold their plumes well into winter. Their golden stalks sway in the wind and catch frost beautifully on cold mornings.
Hellebores (Again!)
Because hellebores keep their foliage year-round and bloom early, they bridge the gap between winter and spring, providing color when little else does.
Tips to Keep Perennials Thriving with Minimal Effort
Even the easiest plants benefit from a few simple habits. These steps will keep your garden looking fresh without demanding constant work:
Start with the right plant in the right place. Match sun and soil conditions to what each plant prefers. This single step prevents most problems.
Water deeply but infrequently. Once perennials are established, they need far less water than annuals.
Mulch generously. A layer of mulch suppresses weeds, keeps soil moist, and adds organic matter as it breaks down.
Divide when necessary. Every few years, dig up and split crowded clumps to keep them vigorous and spread color to new areas of the garden.
Leave seed heads in winter. Many seed heads look beautiful against snow and provide food for birds. Cut them back in early spring for fresh growth.
Pairing Perennials with Evergreen Structure
For a garden that truly looks good year-round, pair perennials with evergreens. Shrubs like boxwood, dwarf holly, or juniper keep their shape and color, anchoring the design when flowers fade. This creates a sense of balance and makes the space feel intentional even in the off-season.
Why Low-Maintenance Gardens Matter
Life is busy. Gardens should be a joy, not a chore. By choosing resilient perennials, we create spaces that welcome us instead of demand from us. They save money, reduce waste, and support pollinators year after year. Most of all, they allow us to step outside and simply enjoy the beauty around us.
Welcoming Endless Color to Your Garden
With the right perennials, color never truly leaves your yard. It flows from spring flowers to summer blooms, from autumn tones to winter textures. Each season brings its own personality, yet the garden feels connected and whole. By planting thoughtfully now, you create a living canvas that changes but never fades—a space that gives joy in every month of the year.
Are you ready to start your own organic garden and enjoy fresh, healthy produce right from your backyard? Organic gardening is a rewarding and sustainable way to grow your food, and it’s easier than you think. This beginner’s guide will walk you through all the essential steps, from choosing the right location and preparing the soil to selecting the best plants and controlling pests. With a little planning and effort, you’ll be well on your way to a bountiful harvest of organic vegetables, fruits, and herbs. Let’s get started!
Choose the right location
Choosing the Right Location: A Foundation for Organic Gardening Success
When embarking on your organic gardening journey, selecting the right location for your garden is paramount to its success. Several key factors should be taken into consideration to ensure your plants thrive and produce a bountiful harvest.
Sunlight is essential for photosynthesis, the process by which plants convert sunlight into energy. Most vegetables, fruits, and herbs require at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. Choose a spot in your yard that receives ample sunlight throughout the day, ideally in the morning when the sun’s rays are less intense.
Good drainage is crucial to prevent waterlogging, which can suffocate plant roots and lead to root rot. Inspect the area after heavy rain or watering to assess drainage. If water pools or takes a long time to drain, consider creating raised beds or amending the soil with organic matter to improve drainage.
The microclimate of your chosen location also plays a significant role in plant growth. Factors such as frost pockets, wind exposure, and temperature fluctuations can impact plant survival and productivity. Observe your chosen area over several days to understand its microclimate and select plants accordingly.
In some cases, creating raised beds can be beneficial, especially if your soil has poor drainage or is compacted. Raised beds improve drainage, aeration, and soil temperature, providing an optimal environment for plant growth.
By carefully considering these factors and choosing the right location, you lay the foundation for a thriving organic garden that rewards you with a bountiful harvest of fresh, healthy produce.
Prepare the soil
Preparing the soil is a crucial step in organic gardening, as it provides the foundation for healthy plant growth and a bountiful harvest. Before planting, it’s essential to remove any existing weeds or debris from the garden bed to prevent competition for nutrients and space. This can be done manually by pulling the weeds out by their roots or by using a hoe or weed trimmer. Next, adding compost or well-rotted manure to the soil helps improve its structure, fertility, and water-holding capacity. Compost also introduces beneficial microorganisms that contribute to overall soil health.
Adequate watering is vital for seed germination and plant growth. Deep watering encourages strong root development and helps plants withstand dry spells. However, overwatering should be avoided, as it can lead to root rot and nutrient leaching. Monitoring the soil’s moisture levels and adjusting watering frequency accordingly is essential. Additionally, testing the soil pH is recommended to ensure it falls within the optimal range for the plants you intend to grow. Most vegetables and herbs prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH level between 6.0 and 7.0. Adjusting the soil pH using organic amendments like lime or sulfur can be done if necessary.
By following these soil preparation techniques, you can create an optimal environment for your organic plants to thrive, resulting in a bountiful and healthy harvest.
Choose the right plants
When choosing plants for your organic garden, it’s essential to select varieties that are well-suited to your specific climate and soil conditions. Consider the following factors when making your selections:
**Climate:** Research the USDA plant hardiness zone for your area to determine which plants are likely to thrive in your local climate. Consider factors such as temperature, humidity, and rainfall. Choose plants that are adapted to your specific growing conditions to ensure their success.
**Soil:** Different plants have different soil requirements. Some plants prefer acidic soil, while others prefer alkaline soil. Some plants require well-draining soil, while others can tolerate wet or compacted soil. Test your soil pH and texture to determine which plants are best suited for your garden.
**Pest and disease resistance:** Choose plants that are known to be resistant to common pests and diseases in your area. This will help to reduce the need for chemical pesticides and fungicides, maintaining the organic integrity of your garden.
**Companion planting:** Consider the concept of companion planting, which involves planting different plants together to benefit each other. Some plants, when grown together, can improve soil fertility, deter pests, or attract beneficial insects. Research companion planting techniques to optimize the growth and health of your plants.
**Diversity:** Grow a diverse range of plants to enhance the resilience and sustainability of your garden. Monocultures (growing only one type of plant) can be more susceptible to pests and diseases. By growing a variety of plants, you create a more balanced ecosystem that can better withstand challenges.
By carefully selecting plants that are suited to your climate, soil conditions, and specific needs, you can lay the foundation for a successful and bountiful organic garden.
Organic pest control
methods are essential for protecting your organic garden from pests without resorting to harmful chemicals. Several effective organic pest control methods are available, each with its benefits.
Companion planting involves planting different types of plants together to benefit each other. For example, planting marigolds near tomatoes can help repel pests like aphids and whiteflies.
Neem oil is a natural pesticide derived from the neem tree. It is effective against a wide range of pests, including aphids, mites, and whiteflies. Neem oil can be applied directly to plants or diluted with water and sprayed.
Insecticidal soap is another natural pesticide effective against soft-bodied insects like aphids, mealybugs, and whiteflies. Insecticidal soap can be made at home or purchased from a garden supply store.
Row covers are physical barriers placed over plants to protect them from pests. Row covers can be made of various materials, such as plastic, fabric, or netting.
Beneficial insects are natural predators of pests. Encouraging beneficial insects into your garden can help control pest populations. Beneficial insects include ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps.
By using these organic pest control methods, you can protect your organic garden from pests without harming the environment or your health.
Harvesting and storing your crop
is an important part of organic gardening. It is important to harvest your crops at the right time to ensure the best flavor and nutritional value. You should use sharp tools to avoid damaging the plants and handle your crops carefully to prevent bruising. There are several different ways to preserve your crops, such as canning, freezing, or drying them.
Some methods of preservation are more suitable for certain types of produce. For example, canning is ideal for fruits and vegetables that are high in acidity, such as tomatoes, peaches, and pears. Freezing is a good option for fruits and vegetables that are high in moisture content, such as berries, corn, and peas. Drying is best suited for herbs, spices, and some fruits, such as raisins and apricots.
Canning, freezing, and drying are all great ways to preserve your harvest and enjoy fresh, organic produce all year long. By following these tips, you can ensure that you get the most out of your organic garden.
The Three Sisters are corn, beans, and squash. They grow together. They support each other. They feed us well. This is an old method from many Native nations. It is simple. It is strong. It still works today.
We can learn a lot from it. We learn how plants can be friends. We learn how soil can stay rich. We learn how to work with nature, not against it. In other words, this is more than a way to plant. It is a way to care.
When we plant the Sisters, we join a living story. We honor the people who kept that story alive. We also make our own garden better. Let’s walk through it step by step. We will plan. We will plant. We will tend. We will harvest. And we will eat well, together.
The Wisdom in the Three
Each Sister has a job. Each job matters.
Corn stands tall. It acts like a pole. It lifts the beans up to the sun.
Beans climb the corn. Their roots fix nitrogen. That is plant food. It feeds the whole bed.
Squash sprawls wide. Its big leaves shade the soil. That keeps water in. It blocks weeds. It protects the roots.
Together, they do even more. The mix slows pests. It invites many helpful insects. It softens wind. It breaks hard rain. It keeps soil covered, instead of bare. In other words, they build a living shield.
The Sisters also make a strong meal. Corn gives complex carbs. Beans add protein. Squash brings vitamins and fiber. When we eat them together, we get balance. We get energy that lasts.
Honoring Roots and Respect
This method comes from Native peoples across many regions. The names, stories, and steps can change from place to place. But the core idea stays the same. Grow plants as a family. Let each plant help the others.
We show respect by learning with care. We name the source. We avoid acting like we invented it. We give thanks. Most of all, we try to garden in a way that protects life. The sisters are about care. The sisters are about sharing. We can live that message in our own yard.
Planning Your Three Sisters Bed
Good planning makes a smooth season. Here is how we set up the space so the Sisters can do their best.
Find Sun and Shelter
Pick a spot with full sun. Aim for 6 to 8 hours a day. If wind is strong where you live, add a windbreak on the west or north side. A fence, a row of sunflowers, or a hedge can do the job. This helps the corn stay upright.
Choose the Size
You can start small or go big.
Small bed: one or two mounds with 4–6 corn plants each.
Medium bed: four to six mounds set in a grid.
Large bed: several short rows of mounds, with a path in between for care and harvest.
A mound is a raised circle of soil. It warms fast. It drains well. It also keeps roots from sitting in water.
Prepare the Soil
Add a lot of compost. Mix it into the top 6–8 inches. If soil is heavy clay, add coarse sand and compost. If soil is very light, add compost and some aged manure. We want soil that holds water but still drains. We want a crumbly feel. A pH around neutral is fine.
Do not overdo the nitrogen before planting. Too much nitrogen makes the corn tall and leafy but weak. The beans will add nitrogen later, in a steady way.
Plan the Layout
The classic layout uses mounds. Here is a simple plan:
Make mounds 24–36 inches wide.
Space mounds 3–4 feet apart.
Place pathways so you can reach each mound from all sides.
In each mound, corn goes in the center. Beans go around the corn, but not too close. Squash goes at the edges of the mound. The vines will run between mounds and fill the paths. Instead of wasting space, we create shade for the soil.
Choosing Your Sisters
Variety choice matters. Some types fit better than others.
Corn
Pick a tall, sturdy corn. Many gardeners use flint, flour, or dent types for dry grain. You can also grow sweet corn if you will pick it fresh. The key is strength. Ears should not be too heavy for the stalk. If wind is common, avoid the very tallest types and plant in blocks.
Beans
Choose pole beans, not bush beans. Pole beans climb the corn and keep producing all season. You can pick snap beans to eat fresh. Or you can grow dry beans for storage. Some heirloom beans are bred to climb corn well. They wrap gently and do not choke the stalk.
Squash
Select a vining squash, not a bush type. Winter squash run long and shade the soil. Pumpkins, acorn, Hubbard, and other vining types do well. You can also use vining summer squash if space is tight. But winter squash store better, so they fit the “grow and keep” goal.
Regional Friends
In some places, gardeners add a “fourth sister,” like sunflower or bee balm. Sunflower can act as a windbreak. Bee balm draws pollinators. In drier regions, some people plant amaranth with the Sisters. These choices depend on climate and tradition. Use what suits your place.
When and How to Plant
Timing matters. The order matters. Plant in stages so the corn can lead and the beans can follow.
Step 1: Shape the Mounds
After the last frost, shape your mounds. Add compost. Water them well and let them settle for a few days. This gives a firm base for seeds.
Step 2: Plant the Corn
Plant 4–6 corn seeds in each mound, in a small circle. Set the seeds about 1 inch deep. Space them 6–8 inches apart. Water gently. When the seedlings are 2–3 inches tall, thin to the strongest 3–4 plants per mound. Do not pull the extras; cut them at the base so you do not disturb roots.
Step 3: Wait for Corn to Lead
Let the corn grow to 6 inches tall. This is key. If beans go in too soon, they can pull the corn down. We want the corn to get a head start. In other words, patience now will save trouble later.
Step 4: Plant the Beans
When the corn is 6 inches tall, plant 4–6 bean seeds around the corn, about 6 inches away from the stalks. Place the seeds evenly in a circle. Plant 1 inch deep. Water well. As the vines rise, guide them toward the corn with your fingers. They will find the stalks and climb.
Step 5: Plant the Squash
Plant squash at the outer rim of each mound, two to three seeds per spot, on two sides of the mound. Space these spots so vines can run between mounds. Plant seeds 1 inch deep. Thin to one strong plant per spot when true leaves appear.
Spacing at a Glance
Mounds: 3–4 feet apart
Corn per mound: 3–4 plants
Bean seeds: 4–6 per mound, 6 inches from corn
Squash plants: 1–2 per mound, at the outer edge
Water, Mulch, and Care
Watering
Keep soil evenly moist. Corn needs steady water as it rises and as ears fill. Beans need moisture to set pods. Squash needs water to keep big leaves strong. Water at the base. Avoid soaking leaves. Deep, slow watering is better than quick, light sprays.
Mulching
Mulch helps a lot. After the soil warms, lay straw, leaves, or grass clippings around the mounds. Keep mulch a few inches away from the corn stems. Mulch keeps the soil cool and moist. It also feeds the soil as it breaks down. Instead of bare earth, we keep a living blanket on the ground.
Feeding
If your soil was poor at the start, side-dress with compost when the corn is knee-high. You can also use a light fish or seaweed tea every few weeks. Go easy. Beans add nitrogen. Too much extra food can make the corn tall but weak.
Weeding
Weeds will try to move in early. Hand-weed while plants are small. Once squash fills the gaps, weeds fade. The shade does the work for you.
Pollination and Wind
Corn is wind-pollinated. That is why we plant in blocks or grouped mounds, not in one long line. When tassels open, a soft breeze will drop pollen onto the silks. If you get poor pollination, tap the stalks at midday to shake loose pollen.
Strong winds can lodge (bend) corn. Plant in a place with some shelter. A short fence or a line of sunflowers can help. If a stalk leans after a storm, press soil against the base to brace it.
Pests and Simple Fixes
Corn Earworm
Pinch or clip a tiny bit off the silk tips after pollination. You can also slip on a paper bag to shield the tip. Harvest at the right time and cook soon.
Bean Beetles
Check leaves often. Hand-pick beetles and scrape off yellow egg clusters. Encourage lady beetles and other helpers by keeping flowers nearby.
Squash Vine Borer
Use row cover early, and remove it when flowers open. Check stems for sawdust-like frass. If you see it, slit the stem gently, remove the borer, and mound soil over the wound to help the plant root again.
Powdery Mildew on Squash
Good airflow helps. Water at the base, not on leaves. Remove the worst leaves to slow spread. Plant resistant varieties when you can.
Troubleshooting the Mix
Corn falls over: The bean vines may be too heavy or the soil too loose. Thin bean vines, hill soil at the corn base, and add a windbreak next time.
Beans do not climb: Guide them by hand. If corn stalks are very smooth, a rough string between stalks can give a grip.
Squash smothers beans: Use fewer squash plants and train vines down the paths. You can also tuck leaves back to free bean pods.
Poor corn ears: This may be drought or weak pollination. Water more during tasseling. Plant in blocks so pollen spreads well next time.
Slow growth: Soil may be cold. Wait for warmer days before planting next season. In cool areas, black mulch can warm the soil early.
Harvest and Storage
Corn
For sweet corn, pick when silks are brown and dry and kernels press to milky juice. Cook soon after picking. For dry corn, wait until husks turn papery and ears are hard. Dry the ears in a warm, airy place. Shell and store in jars.
Beans
Pick snap beans when pods are long and crisp. Keep picking to keep vines producing. For dry beans, wait until pods turn tan and rattle. Harvest when dry weather is set. Shell and store in a cool, dry place.
Squash
Harvest winter squash when the rind is hard and the stem is dry on the plant. Leave a short stem on each fruit. Cure in a warm, dry spot for 10–14 days. Then store in a cool room with airflow. Many winter squash keep for months.
Cooking with the Sisters
The Sisters make many good meals. We can cook simply and eat well.
Succotash: sweet corn, beans, and squash in a single pot. Add onions, herbs, and a bit of butter or oil.
Skillet hash: corn off the cob, sliced summer squash, and snap beans sautéed until tender.
Roasted winter squash: serve with a pot of beans and fresh corn bread.
Stew: dry beans, diced winter squash, and cornmeal dumplings for a warm bowl.
The flavors are simple and rich. The meals are filling. After more than a few tries, you will learn your own favorite way.
Seed Saving Basics
Saving seed keeps the story going.
Corn: Space different corn types far apart to avoid cross-pollination. Pick ears from the best plants. Dry well. Store in a sealed jar.
Beans: These are easy to save. Let pods dry on the plant. Shell and store.
Squash: Save seeds from a fully ripe fruit. Rinse and dry the seeds on a plate. Note that squash can cross with other squash in the same species. If you want pure seed, grow one type at a time or hand-pollinate and bag the flowers.
Label your jars with the variety and the year. Test germination next spring by sprouting a few seeds on a damp paper towel.
Small Spaces and Creative Twists
You do not need a huge yard. We can adapt.
Teepee tripod: plant three to four corn stalks as a small cluster. Add beans around them. Plant a single squash at the base.
Raised beds: keep the classic mound idea, but inside a tidy frame. Train squash to run down the aisle.
Containers: use a deep tub for corn and beans and a second tub for a compact vining squash. Water more often.
Fence edge: plant a short block of corn near a sunny fence. Use the fence to guide beans if wind is strong.
Instead of saying “I can’t,” try a small patch. Even one mound teaches a lot.
Climate Tips
Cool, Short Seasons
Start corn indoors in paper pots 2–3 weeks before last frost. Transplant gently to avoid root shock. Use early corn and fast pole beans. Black mulch can warm the soil. Pick a smaller, faster vining squash.
Hot, Dry Regions
Plant a bit deeper to reach moisture. Mulch thick. Consider a drought-tough corn and beans known to thrive in heat. Use a squash with thick leaves and strong vines. A light shade cloth over young plants can help during a heat wave.
Humid Areas
Give more space between mounds for airflow. Thin vines to prevent mildew. Water early in the day. Choose disease-resistant types when you can.
Soil Health for the Long Run
The Sisters keep soil covered and fed. But we can do more.
Add compost every year.
Grow a cover crop in fall, like clover or rye, and cut it in spring.
Avoid heavy tilling. Too much till breaks soil life.
Keep living roots in the ground as long as you can.
In other words, treat soil like a living thing. Feed it. Protect it. It will take care of you.
Teaching and Community
The Sisters make a great school. Kids can see how plants help each other. They learn patience. They learn to share space. They taste food they grew. That is a powerful lesson.
Community gardens can use the Sisters to fill a bed with food and beauty. The vines spill over the paths. The corn tassels shine in late light. The bean flowers bring bees. It is a joyful mix. It invites people to stop and ask, “What is growing here?” Then the story begins.
Cleaning Up After Harvest
When the season ends, we still have work to do.
Cut the corn stalks at the soil line. Leave the roots to rot and feed the soil.
Chop the vines and leave them as mulch, unless pests were heavy. If pests were heavy, compost in a hot pile or bag and remove.
Spread a layer of compost and a fall mulch.
Sow a cover crop if the season allows.
This sets the bed up for next year. After more than one season, you will feel the soil get richer under your hands.
A Yearly Planting Calendar (Simple Guide)
Dates vary by place, but this rough guide helps.
Early spring: add compost and shape mounds.
Late spring (after frost): plant corn.
2–3 weeks later: plant beans when corn is 6 inches tall.
Same week as beans: plant squash at mound edges.
Early summer: mulch and weed.
Mid to late summer: harvest snap beans and sweet corn; keep watering.
Late summer to fall: harvest dry beans and winter squash; cure squash.
Fall: clean up, add compost, and sow a cover crop.
Why This Method Endures
The Three Sisters last because they work. They match plant needs with plant gifts. They give us good food and strong soil. They turn a bed into a small community. We learn to see links, not parts. We learn to watch and adjust. We learn to share the work with the plants themselves.
Instead of pushing nature, we cooperate. Instead of blank rows, we make a living weave. But most of all, we join a tradition of care and respect. That matters in the garden. It also matters beyond the garden.
Your First Planting Plan (Action Steps)
Let’s turn this into action. Here is a quick plan you can follow.
Plant 4–6 corn seeds per mound. Thin to 3–4 strong plants.
When corn is 6 inches tall, plant 4–6 pole bean seeds around each mound, 6 inches from the corn.
Plant 1–2 vining squash plants at the outer edge of each mound.
Mulch once the soil warms. Water deeply each week.
Guide bean vines onto corn by hand.
Side-dress with compost when corn is knee-high.
Harvest in stages: snap beans first, sweet corn next, then dry beans and winter squash.
Cure squash, shell dry beans, and store.
Save some seed for next year if you can.
In other words, start small. Learn. Adjust. Grow with the Sisters.
Common Questions You May Think About (Answered in Practice)
Do I need fertilizer? Compost plus the beans’ nitrogen is often enough. If leaves look pale, add a light, natural feed.
Can I plant all three at once? Wait for corn to lead. Staging is key to balance.
What if I only have room for two? Try corn and beans as a pair, and mulch well. Or beans and squash if you have a sturdy trellis.
Can I grow sweet corn and dry beans together? Yes. Just time harvests and pick your types with care.
These answers come from practice. Your garden will teach you more.
Caring Hands, Living Story
We plant the Three Sisters with respect and hope. We use simple tools. We watch the weather. We listen to the plants. We keep learning.
This is old wisdom, but it feels fresh in our hands. It makes healthy food. It brings life to the soil. It invites birds, bees, and neighbors. It even slows us down in a good way.
So let us begin. One mound is enough to start. Soon, the corn will rise. The beans will climb. The squash will run. And we will stand in the middle of it all, smiling, because we are part of the story.
Shrubs are a useful asset to any garden. They add height and architectural interest. Evergreen shrubs added to herbaceous borders can give substance to a border and hold interest during winter months when most perennials die down. For the most part they are hardy and easy to maintain, requiring little pruning, and long lived. Here is a guide to a few of my favorite shrubs which will add interest to a garden at different times of the year.
Shrubs for a winter garden
Hamamelis or Witch Hazel has to be a favorite to add winter interest to any garden. It is a winter flowering shrub with spidery flowers and a spicy scent. Flowers come in shades of yellow, orange and reds. Witch Hazel will thrive in any garden but an open sunny position is best. It is quite a large shrub and can grow up to 4m in height. They require little pruning, especially if you have the room to let them grow to their full potential. Just remove any dead or diseased wood. They also have few problems with disease, but look out for honey fungus and vine weevil larvae amongst those grown in containers. Particularly good varieties include Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Barmstedt Gold’ with bright yellow flowers and Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Diane’ with its rich red spidery flowers.
Daphne is one of the best shrubs you can buy for winter scent. It flowers in January/February and has scented pink or white flowers. This shrub is very hardy and can grow up to 2m in height. They grow very well in borders and also in semi-woodland areas. Place them near to paths where their fragrance can be easily enjoyed. But beware, once planted they do not like to be moved. Daphne prefers a well-drained lime-free soil in a sunny spot, although it will tolerate semi-shade. They have few problems, but watch out for aphids and leaf spot. Two lovely varieties include Daphne bholua which has high scent pinkish white flowers, and Daphne odora ‘Aureomarginata’ which has pretty evergreen leaves and fragrant white flowers.
There are some shrubby climbers you can buy to add winter color to deciduous trees. Lonicera standishii ‘Budapest’ is one such example. Semi-evergreen this shrubby honeysuckle has many scented pink-tinged white flowers in mid-winter, followed by red berries. It will grow up to 2m in height and prefers a sheltered position.
Shrubs for spring
Camellias are probably one of the most popular shrubs for early spring flowers. They can be problematic as they need acidic soil, but they can easily be grown in containers in the right compost. Because Camellias are native woodland plants, they grow best in shade or semi-shade. They prefer free-draining conditions with plenty of organic matter and can grow up to 3m in height. Perhaps the main problem for Camellias is frost which can damage flowers. A Good variety is Camellia x williamsii ‘Saint Ewe’ which has rose-pink flowers from January to April and seems to be quite resistant to frost. Azaleas are beautiful spring flowering shrubs. Growing in sun or shade in well-drained soil, varieties can grow up to 15ft and have flowers ranging from white to deep purple/pink. Azalea ‘Adonis’ has gorgeous white flowers in May and grows up to 75cm. Azalea ‘Aladdin’ also flowers in May but has strong red flowers. You just can’t ignore the gorgeous yellow flowers of Forsythia in early spring. It can be grown as a stand-alone specimen or as part of a border and is a useful shrub for hedging. It likes moist but well-drained soil but will grow well anywhere. Forsythia x intermedia ‘Spectabilis’ is a vigorous variety which has deep yellow flowers from mid to late spring and grows up to 300cm in height. Kerria Japonica or Japanese Yellow Rose is another spring flowering shrub with sunny yellow flowers. Varieties can have either single or double flowers. It is suitable for a border or a woodland garden and grows to around 2m in height. Pieris Japonica is an all-year-round shrub, with attractive foliage in summer and slightly fragrant clusters of bell-shaped white, pink or red flowers in early spring. They can be grown in a shrub border but are just as at home in garden planters. ‘Mountain Fire’ has particularly attractive glossy red leaves.
Summer flowering shrubs
Hydrangea is a deciduous shrub that can suit any type of garden. There are many varieties that are divided up into two main groups. ‘Lacecaps’ that have flattened flower heads, and ‘Hortensias’ that have spherical flower heads of large flowers. Flower colors range from pinks to blues. He more acidic the soil, the bluer the flower will be. Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’ is a spectacular variety, with large conical blooms from July to September which open in a soft shade of pea green and gradually change to cream and finally a delicate soft pink as they mature. It will grow to up to 250cm. Hibiscus syriacus, also called Rose of Sharon, is a deciduous flowering shrub that can reach a height of around 4m. It likes very warm conditions in full sun where it displays an abundance of attractive white, pink, red, lavender, or purple flowers. It is an easy plant to grow as it develops quickly once planted and doesn’t mind being moved. Buddleja’s are also very easy to grow. They like well drained soil and plenty of sunshine. Their flowers of pink to blue/purple provide a summer spectacle in August when they are covered in butterflies which feed on their nectar. They do require hard pruning in spring to encourage plenty of new growth. ‘Pink Delight’ has conical spikes of claret buds opening to produce lovely, orange-eyed flowers in a strong pink.
Shrubs for autumn interest
Euonymus can be deciduous or evergreen shrubs or small trees, often with fine autumn color. The leaves of Euonymus alatus turn a beautiful rosy-crimson in autumn. It is very hardy and grows up to 2.5m in height and spread. Cotinus or Smoke Tree is a true delight. They are large deciduous shrubs or small trees whose leaves produce wonderful autumn color from yellow to deep reds. Very hardy, they have a bushy habit and can grow up to 8m in height. Berberis can also be large deciduous shrubs or small trees with spiny shoots bearing tiny leaves. Berberis thunbergii has leaves that turn a deep orange/red in autumn followed by red fruit. It has an ultimate height and spread of around 1.5m and is therefore suitable form most gardens.
Flower gardens are extremely wonderful to look at. More so if you are the one who is taking care of the flower garden – it will truly be one relaxing experience to see all your hard work in full bloom.
So, for those who have tried in vain to get their flower garden in tip-top shape might want to follow some of these simple rules:
First things first, remember that to able to give great care to your flower garden, it must get the basics. Sunlight, water and a good soil are the most essential components to get nice blooms. A plant would need around six hours of sunlight each day and regular watering. A good soil can be maintained by adding fertilizer from time to time.
Second, you can mix up your garden. Perennials are the types of plants that can last for more than two seasons while annuals can last up to a single season only. Mixing them up in your garden would assure you that you have some blooms to wait for each time.
Third, deadheading is also important. Flowers need to be trimmed when they wither. This will encourage more flowers to bloom and besides, dead flowers will not make your garden attractive. Also, make sure that you do not leave the trimmings in your flower garden as it can attract insects or may cause diseases to your plants.
Fourth, harmful bugs are different from the helpful ones. There are many types of insects that you should encourage into your flower garden. There are those that help decompose the soil and thus provide nutrients to the plants in your garden. There are also other insects that feed off on the smaller insects that could destroy your plants. Also, insects like butterflies and bees help in spreading pollen of one plant to another. They also make great additional accessories and can make your garden look more colorful and lively.
It is not very hard to take care of the flower garden. The basics and a little pampering once in awhile is all it takes to ensure that they keep producing wonderful blooms for your eyes to watch in awe.
With most of us living in concrete jungles, having a garden in your home can be considered nothing short of lucky! From a small flowerbed to a large lush green space, there is a lot you can do with your garden that helps put your own personal stamp on it. From installing garden ornaments to adding outdoor lighting, you are only limited by your imagination.
Plants of various colors and shapes add to the beauty of your garden. Think green holly, ivy or fuchsia. Consider enhancing the place further by creating live ornaments from plants. Prune them into columns and craft hedges that have everyone in awe. In fact you can enhance the look of the garden by creating an archway with plants such as draped wisteria vines. Alternately consider flanking the garden gates with bougainvillea. There will be many people wanting to get a sneak peek into this haven!
You could also consider a whole lot of other ornaments as a garden decor idea. A wrought-iron gate, a lantern or an iron bell hung on a tree, a bench are great outdoor accessories that add to the appeal. You can also repurpose old items such as those metal watering cans that make for lovely planters or those antique dresser drawers that add oodles of style. Pro tip-Ensure that all the decor elements are subtly placed though, so the garden doesn’t look too contrived or overdone.
Add charm to regular terracotta pots by doing them up in vibrant paint. You can also create a mosaic on those pots with broken ceramic pieces. They add loads of color and texture to your garden. If you run out of space, you can also look at creating a vertical garden with spray painted cans hung on a fence with lovely blooms.
Give your creativity free reign as you think of the garden furniture. You can turn a workbench into a place to display greenery as also a great venue for those potluck parties. Opt for a small table that adds a dash of color with a corner flower vase and just enough space to enjoy that morning cuppa. Outdoor lighting is another aspect that lends oodles of style to your garden. Go in for those bistro lights and savor their warm glow. Alternately you can also hang outdoor lanterns or those spring lights. The romance that they add to the garden is indescribable.
With a garden as charming as this, you certainly would want some privacy to be able to enjoy this calm haven. Opt for artificial plant wall coverings that are awfully easy to install and yet look like real foliage. That it is low on maintenance, is an added perk. You can also add to the charm with other artificial plant decor. Tree ferns and other colorful buds kept in beautiful pots create one enchanting space. Whoever said you need a green thumb to maintain a garden, hadn’t heard of these artificial plants.
When organic matter has finished decomposing the end result is compost. Although there are many types of organic matter such as manure, leaves, garden waste and kitchen scraps etc. although there are many types of composting organic matter will eventually do its job with or without you.
Composting does not have be a difficult task, most people can achieve quick results it’s just a matter of managing your time properly. If you want your compost to be ready faster then let’s get started.
To start we will use kitchen and garden waste. The only materials required at this time are a shovel or pitchfork. If you do not know where to build your compost pile there are compost bins or tumblers that you can use. In this case we will just use the ground but in the future a bin is more effective and keeps unwanted animals from your site.
Make sure that the compost is a safe distance from the house. All you need now are the ingredients. In the house you can start to collect kitchen scraps in a large coffee can or you may even use a large pail with a lid. You know when to take the scraps to your compost when you start to smell an odor. Make sure not to mix the compost too much, start out by mixing the compost once a week or less. This will speed up the process your compost needs to complete itself.
Try to obtain grass clippings and leaves for your compost. Leaves will provide carbon and your kitchen scraps will provide nitrogen. Try to stay away from scraps that are oily or greasy this will only attract unwanted pests. The best things for your compost are egg shells, coffee grinds, tea bags, bones and even hair. Many baseball diamonds have used hair to get their grass started. Undertake if possible a search for green manure if you can, if not regular steer manure will do.
Once the organic matter has finished decomposing your will know by the texture and smell. When your compost has a strong odor your will know that it is not getting enough oxygen. If the end result smells woodsy or earthy then your compost is complete.
If you are concerned that you are using too much compost then stop worrying as your soil will never reject the amount that you use. The end result should be a proud yard, garden or plant you can enjoy.
Improving Soil with Compost
Soil modification is a key ingredient for how to start a garden. The content and texture of your soil is critical. To have a successful garden, you will need to have good soil. The best soil is not sandy, and it’s not too much like clay. It needs to be able to drain adequately, but hang on to enough moisture so that your plants don’t go thirsty. Too much sand and the water runs off, too much clay and you drown your plants. You may need to modify your soil before you start your garden.
If your soil sticks together, it’s too much like clay and you will need to amend it. If your soil is too sandy, meaning it won’t hardly stick together at all, you will also need to amend it. The way that you amend both kinds of soil is to add organic matter, or compost.
Luckily, organic matter is nothing more than plant or animal matter that is decomposing. The easiest way that you can add organic matter to your soil is to add compost or apply mulch. If you have a heavy clay like soil, it’s best to add manure, or green plant material since they break down more rapidly, instead of peat moss, straw or shredded bark, because they don’t break down as quickly. Even if you have good soil adding compost is always a good idea.
Adding compost to clay like soil makes it more pliable and improves its ability allow water to flow through. Sandy soil doesn’t have enough organic matter, so adding large amounts helps to give sandy soil a better ability to hold water. Large amounts of organic matter are likely to be needed to make your soil suitable. You will usually want to use a ratio of 2 to 1 compost to soil for it to be effective.
Air, water, minerals, and organic matter are all components of healthy soil. There are benefits of adding decomposed matter to good soil, in addition to compensating for poor soil like sand or clay, and that is it adds carbon, which promotes good bacteria growth, and it is more likely that you will have hearty plants.
You can’t have too much compost. In fact, you shouldn’t till your soil more than once or twice a year after you have worked in appropriate amounts of organic matter. This is because as the soil is turned, oxygen is added and it feeds the microbial activity that breaks down the organic matter. So if you don’t till it, it slows down the destruction of your organic matter.
If you invest the time to make sure you soil is healthy it will pay dividends when it comes to growing your garden.
You can compost for nothing ( zero pounds / dollars) by piling your garden and food waste up in a corner. How do you decide whether to pay 20, 60, 140 or even 900 pounds (yes really!) for a compost bin? You ‘justify’ the cash by convincing yourself of the ‘value’. We show you how to do this by checking the composting features meet your needs at a price you can afford.
Sounds like hard work – why not just go online, look for a 5 star ratings and best price – job done. Almost all the online reviews look like this “arrived/did not arrive on time (score 1-5), it was easy/hard to set up (score 1-5). I’d let you know how it works! The all important bit is missing – few return 12 months to let you know if it worked and how well.
We can summarize the process of how do choose the ‘right compost bin’ or the ‘best compost bin’ for you into seven steps:
Step 1 – WHY – define your goals
Step 2- WHERE – review your available space and site for the bin
Step 3 – WHAT & WHEN – how much garden and food waste you produce
Step 4 – EFFORT – how much time and effort you are willing to invest
Step 5 – HOW – which method (ex. hot, cold, digesters, vermicompost) and which bin features are essential and which are nice to have (ex. low odor, no rats, no flies, handle all food waste, kills pathogens, kills weed seeds)?
Step 6 – CHECK – build a feature list
Step 7 – MATCH – which compost bin will deliver the best price / performance
Before we go any further, let’s consider your time and effort to read this article. You might have the time and interest in composting to fully research the topic – if so read the detail below), but many will just want a ‘fast track’ to help them make a quick decision with a degree of confidence that they are choosing a one that will work.
The fast track
Read between the lines of the vendor marketing hype (that’s the polite term!).
Seek user recommendations. Ignore the ‘arrived/did not arrive’ on time, ‘easy/hard’ to assemble. Look for reviews that state “It works, it does what it says, I have great compost out fast, worth every penny, best compost bin used in 20 years.
Validate vendor promises (ex. compost in 7-days). Look for detailed scientific study from reputable independent organization that supports the claim. Walk away if nothing.
Check vendor ability – do they offer in-depth hands-on composting advice or just regurgitate the ‘list of things to compost’ that only applies to ‘cold’ composting? Look for advice that explains hot versus cold composting, how long it takes in each situation an why it differs when hot composting.
Look for vendors with ability in composting science & engineering. Composting obeys the laws of nature such as heat loss & cooling, rates/speed of biochemical reactions. You do not need to know about the science and engineering of composting – but I believe your compost bin vendor should.
For those who want to look into the detail, here is a little more depth around the seven steps to help you choose a compost bin
Step 1 – Consider your composting goals
Do you want to make lots of rich/great compost for your garden that will improve its fertility and cut down how much fertilizer and maybe even peat you use?
Do you just want to keep the garden tidy?
Do you want to make a more positive contribution to the environment by recycling all your food waste so your local council no longer has to collect and transport it to landfill?
Are you just fed up with allocating more and more of your flower or vegetable patch to overflowing compost bins that never seem to do anything?
What are your goals on sustainability, organic gardening, good use of limited resources.
Step 2 – Review your available space and site for the compost bin
Some compost bins need a certain site (ex. a sunny spot, or the opposite keep in the shade’, ‘only use on soil’, ‘do not use on clay soil’. You may have very little choice (ex. it needs to go on the concrete by the garage). Your site may limit your compost bin choice.
You might have a small garden and no space for a large compost bin, conversely you might have very large garden and taking 9 square feet for a traditional 3-bay compost bin system might pose no issues.
Do you want to the compost bin close to the kitchen so you can pop out easily in the rain to empty your food caddy?
Step 3 – Review the volume of garden and food waste you produce
Are you just going to compost seasonal garden waste (summer/autumn)
Do you want to compost grass cuttings (spring, summer, autumn)
Do you want to compost food waste – produced all year-round – ie compost through winter
How much of each type of waste do you have? In my experience, very few garden composters or food waste recyclers accurately know how many pounds of waste they produce. Very few want to record and measure it either. Choosing the right compost bin size is also further complicated as compost bins can (given the right conditions ‘hot compost’). Hot compost 32 times faster than a competitor bin that only facilitates ‘cold composting. So 5 gallons of waste a week in one bin would rapidly break down within a week, but in another bin build up over time and need a 100 gallon bin.
Step 4 – Consider if you want to ‘hot’ or ‘cold’ compost?
The headline benefits of ‘hot’ composting over ‘cold’ composting are:
Hot composting will destroy weed seeds – saving you time and effort in future
Hot composting will destroy dangerous bacteria – you can compost all food waste
Hot composting requires far less space to compost the same amount of waste
Hot composting requires dramatically less time (ex. 30 days Vs 360 days)
Hot composting works all year-round (cold heaps stop in winter below 5C)
Step 5 – How much time and effort you are willing to spend on composting
This is hard – everyone tends to answer – ‘none / minimal’. The more a vendor knows this is critical to your choice, the more pressure to use the term ‘easy’ and the bigger the potential expectation gap and likely hood of user disappointment. There is always some effort (ex. collecting food, turning, mixing, shredding). In our experience, it is easier when you follow simple steps. Investing the time to form habits is challenging – especially at the start when people perceive the habits are taking more time not saving time.
So, now you have a clear picture of what you want. Next, how do you check and match the compost bin against your composting goals?
Step 6 – Build a compost bin feature list
Build a feature list, find the top 10 commercial bins, score each feature, ignore those compost bins that do not fit your needs to produce a short list; then weight/score the remaining compost bins to find the best match.
Step 7 – Assess which compost bin will deliver the best price/performance
Score each compost bin against each feature to find the overall value for money score – the million dollar question!
Commercial Product managers do this kind of work as their day job – but it is likely very few composters, gardeners or food waste recyclers have the time or inclination to do this. Follow our link to the ‘compost bin competitive evaluation sheet’. You will find 12 widely available compost bins types and brands analyzed. You can play around with the scores and weighting to see which you think is best.
Healthy garden soil is teeming with life: there are earthworms and micro-organisms by the millions, each with a particular function in making soil fertile. Like any living thing, the soil must have food. Without food, the life in soil either leaves or dies. Eventually, the garden itself weakens and dies.
Soil life eats organic matter, decomposing it and creating a crucial soil element called humus. Humus is decayed organic material. The process of decomposition releases nutrients in forms that plants can absorb. In other words, decomposition of organic material has a fertilizing effect.
But fertility is only part of the value of regularly feeding the soil with organic material. Humus also contributes to the sponge-like soil texture that allows air circulation and moisture retention. Loam — the ideal soil for growing plants – is a balanced mixture of sand, clay, silt, and organic matter. Humus will bind sandy soil or loosen hard-packed clay.
For these beneficial results (for fertility and texture), the life in soil needs fresh food. Regular doses of organic material will ensure that garden dirt is enhanced rather than depleted over the lifetime of the garden. Every year, a 30 by 40 foot garden needs around 400 pounds (equivalent to 10 bales of hay) of organic material, but it doesn’t need to be added all at once.
Additions of organic material take a variety of forms. For starters, chop garden residues into the soil: weeds, mulch, and plants left after harvest. Hauling in compost by the yard from nurseries or hauling animal manures from nearby farms is also an option. But the easiest and most cost effective method of continuous additions of organic material is to grow cover crops, also known as green manures.
Cover crops are grown and tilled into the soil, replenishing rather than removing nutrients. Even in a small garden, this is an effective method when a harvest crop and a green manure are grown in rotation. For instance, plant a late summer green manure after an early crop such as peas or broccoli.
Some suggestions for cover crops include legumes, buckwheat, and rye grass.
Legumes such as peas and soybeans fix atmospheric nitrogen into the soil when inoculated seeds that attract certain micro-organisms are used. In addition, these legumes are vegetables, making a single planting both a harvest crop and a green manure.
For bulk and quick growth, rye grass or other annual grains are good choices. In colder climates these are especially good cover crops for the end of summer because they die over the winter and are easy to till in the spring. For the poorest soils, buckwheat is most useful.
Green manures can work with or without using powered equipment, but in larger gardens a rotor-tiller certainly makes the process easier. In smaller gardens, the question of whether it makes financial sense to invest in renting or buying a rotor-tiller has to be weighed against the cost of hauling in compost and animal manures.
Either way – hauling or tilling – some form of additional organic material beyond chopping in garden residues must happen in order for the soil to function and for the plants it supports to thrive.
