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The Fascinating World of Succulent Plants: Ultimate Guide

Growing Succulent Plants

If you’re like most people, you probably think of cacti when you hear the word “succulent.” However, succulent plants come in all shapes and sizes, and there is much more to them than just prickly plants that thrive in the desert. In this blog post, we will discuss everything you need to know about succulent plants. We’ll cover what they are, how to care for them, and some interesting facts about these fascinating plants!

Succulent plants are a type of plant that has thick, fleshy leaves or stems. This type of plant is adapted to living in dry environments, as the thick leaves and stems help to store water. Succulent plants come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, from small, delicate-looking plants to large, tree-like succulents.

Now that you know a bit more about succulent plants, let’s take a look at some interesting facts about these fascinating plants!

Light

Growing Succulent Plants

Growing succulent plants benefit from getting a few hours of sun. Put succulents outdoors during morning hours, gradually increasing their exposure to direct sunlight over several days or weeks until they’re used to full sun exposure. You can also place succulents into an area that receives indirect light all day long. This will allow them to adjust more slowly by giving succulent leaves time to react and close up during periods of intense heat or bright light while still receiving adequate water and nutrients.

Treat succulents as houseplants and keep them near a sunny window, at least 6 to 8 hours of sun exposure per day. If your succulents aren’t getting enough sunlight, the leaves will be thin and succulent rosettes will be small.

Water

Keep growing succulent plants evenly moist and fertilize them with a dilute (half-strength) plant food solution, but don’t fertilize succulents that go outdoors until the weather warms up enough for succulent leaves to begin opening again – then stop fertilizing altogether once succulents start storing energy for next year’s succulent growth.

If your succulents are inside, water succulents when they look shriveled or let them dry out. Water succulents until the water trickles through the drainage hole – succulents also absorb moisture through their succulent leaves. Finally, water your succulents sparingly; too much water can lead to root rot.

Soil

Soil is the primary growing medium, choose a well-draining soil and be sure to adjust your soil mixture based on where you plan on growing succulent plants. Succulent soil should drain well and not hold too much moisture. Most soil mixtures for cacti include coarse sand or perlite (or both) as primary ingredients, with composted bark or other organic matter incorporated. If you want to use soil that doesn’t include sand, perlite or bark as an ingredient, make sure you purchase a bagged potting soil designed for cactus and succulents ¢â‚¬â€œ do not use topsoil from your garden! You can also make your own custom soil mix using materials like: 1/3 soil, 1/3 compost, 1/3 perlite. Succulents require soil that is free of plant food or fertilizers since these will burn your succulent’s roots and ultimately kill the plant.

Succulent Plants

Huernia zebrina, Lifesaver Plant

Most succulents require a lot in order to thrive and that¢â‚¬â„¢s where Huernias like this one (Huernia zebrina Lifesaver Plant) come into play. This plant is easy-to-grow and has an unusual beauty when in bloom. The lifesaver plant (Huernia zebrina) is perfect for beginners or experts alike!

Aloe, White Fox

Aloe ¢â‚¬ËœWhite Fox¢â‚¬â„¢ is a dwarf succulent that displays rosettes of thick green leaves with distinctive white markings that become more prominent in bright light.

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Outdoor Planter Boxes for Highlighting The Landscape

Outdoor planter boxes can be used for highlighting a landscape, garden, patio, balcony and the inside of your home. Outdoor planter boxes are generally used in a container garden to grow flowers, vegetables, or herbs. Most of these containers are constructed of weather resistant materials that will withstand the outdoor elements.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-I6I0Q6Kp3k

Wood outdoor garden boxes that hold up to outdoor conditions are mostly made of redwood, cedar, or teak. You can find them in different shapes and sizes and can be used almost anywhere particularly a rustic outdoor setting. Many raised beds are constructed of these in the natural state or they can be painted to match any area of your garden. Raised beds are convenient for gardeners with knee or back problems and they are excellent for drainage.

PVC is a very durable material used in the construction of planter boxes. They sometimes give the appearance of beautiful wood or clay and you cannot tell the difference until pick one up and realize it is PVC. They are inexpensive lightweight containers that will last through many seasons of harsh weather and they do not need very much care. Some of these containers are so beautiful and self-watering they can be used on a front porch or door step to enhance the landscape in front of your house. Clay planter boxes are good for your plants health but the soil will dry out much quicker than other planters. They can be very heavy and are fragile so are best if used in a location where you do not have to move them around. They are also available in various sizes, shapes, and styles; you may even find some to match some of your outdoor yard decorations.

Some outdoor planter boxes are constructed of metal and are quite common. Some have decorative feet to lift them off the ground for drainage. Some may come with an inner lining or you can use a plastic liner for protection. You can find many window-boxes that are constructed of metal and are self-watering. Hanging planters are also classified as planter boxes for planting flowers that drape or hang over the side. Hanging planters can be hung from house eaves or patio covers and are available as self-watering.

Almost anything can be used as a planter box for growing vegetables, herbs, or flowers. You just need to find one large enough to handle the root system of what you intend to plant such as plastic milk containers, bushel baskets, large pressed fiber pots or even an old wheel barrow. If you want to plant tomatoes the container should be very deep but to plant radishes you only need about a 6-inch deep container. The larger the container and the more soil used will give the roots more room to spread and less watering on the gardeners’ part.

Be sure the containers you use have ample holes for drainage; they can be on the bottom or on the sides. The excess water needs to drain out so the roots do not get waterlogged. Most large containers have the holes on the bottom so elevating them on blocks or bricks will give the water a place to go. The larger the container the more drainage holes it will need. A well-aerated soil will not need any stones in the bottom because you want as much room as possible for the roots of the plant.

You need to check your containers a couple times a day, especially during the hotter days of summer, for moisture if you do not have self-watering planters or are not using a drip watering system. Your large containers can use a layer of mulch to help retain some of the moisture. You need to use outside water that has not been through a water softener; the salts used in a softener can be toxic to your plants. Collected rainwater is the best and cheapest water that can be used for your outdoor planter boxes.

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Simple Ways to Take Care of the Flower Garden

Flower gardens are extremely wonderful to look at. More so if you are the one who is taking care of the flower garden – it will truly be one relaxing experience to see all your hard work in full bloom.

So, for those who have tried in vain to get their flower garden in tip-top shape might want to follow some of these simple rules:

First things first, remember that to able to give great care to your flower garden, it must get the basics. Sunlight, water and a good soil are the most essential components to get nice blooms. A plant would need around six hours of sunlight each day and regular watering. A good soil can be maintained by adding fertilizer from time to time.

Second, you can mix up your garden. Perennials are the types of plants that can last for more than two seasons while annuals can last up to a single season only. Mixing them up in your garden would assure you that you have some blooms to wait for each time.

Third, deadheading is also important. Flowers need to be trimmed when they wither. This will encourage more flowers to bloom and besides, dead flowers will not make your garden attractive. Also, make sure that you do not leave the trimmings in your flower garden as it can attract insects or may cause diseases to your plants.

Fourth, harmful bugs are different from the helpful ones. There are many types of insects that you should encourage into your flower garden. There are those that help decompose the soil and thus provide nutrients to the plants in your garden. There are also other insects that feed off on the smaller insects that could destroy your plants. Also, insects like butterflies and bees help in spreading pollen of one plant to another. They also make great additional accessories and can make your garden look more colorful and lively.

It is not very hard to take care of the flower garden. The basics and a little pampering once in awhile is all it takes to ensure that they keep producing wonderful blooms for your eyes to watch in awe.

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Growing Garden Herbs As a Hobby

“Mary, Mary, quite contrary, how does your garden grow?” If you are an herbalist, “healthy” might be your answer. There are all kinds of hobbies a person can pursue; skydiving, goat roping, bungee jumping, and the list goes on. If you are more in mind of developing one that is safer, growing garden herbs might be for you.

A hobby should be safe on the one hand, and produce something that is pleasing or constructive on the other. Herbal gardening gets the nod on both these fronts. It’s also a relatively inexpensive way to spend time. If you have the space to plant, and it doesn’t require a lot of space, you can become a gardener with a purpose.

The only really important tools you must have to grow herbs are your patience and determination. Sure it is nice to have a tiller to break up the ground before planting, and hoes and other tools are needed to tend the garden, but your attitude and love for what you are doing is what makes the experience special. It should never be looked at as though it were a job.

As with any hobby, you must find a starting point, then grow and improve as time goes by. Start modestly with a few herbs that you can use and, if all works well, you can add more the next growing season. There is no race to run or required achievement level. Gardening of any kind should be relaxing and comforting. Go at a pace that is comfortable for you.

Herbs supply at least four things:

* They are medicinal, as is documented through clinical research.

* They are aromatic, as with lavender and mint, to mention a few.

* They are pretty, as many varieties rival flowers for beauty.

* They are culinary, as in all the different varieties of seasonings and garnishments.

Is there anything else that could be planted that yields so many different attributes?

If the herb garden is to be your new hobby, or continuing one, you need to plan for the present planting as well as the future. Place your garden in an area that can be a focal point and is also easy to access. Herbs need sunlight for a good portion of the day, and they need to be elevated enough that water will flow away.

The same way that you plant flower gardens, place the plants that grow tallest behind the shorter ones. Leave room to access each plant. If there are only two rows, this is fairly simple. Allow for the spreading of the plant, because some will have runners and need more space.

Hobbies are good only if you enjoy them. If one gets to be too much work, it is no longer a hobby. Growing garden herbs is a pleasant hobby for the person who loves nature. It can be right for you; just give it a chance. Happy herb gardening!

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Thai and African Blue Basil Love the Sun

All varieties of basil love warm weather and moisture and are perennials in the right climates. In northern or colder climates, basil is an annual due to the shorter growing season, but is truly a perennial. Thai and African Blue basil can be raised year around, even in colder climates by bringing the plants inside for the colder months and providing plenty of light and moisture. By extending the growing season for basil, cooks can delight the palates of their guests or families year around with fresh basil.

Areas with plenty of sunshine enjoy fresh perennial basil such as Thai and African Blue basil year around. Colder climates present some obstacles, but no obstacle that cannot be overcome. By bringing the plants indoors during cold weather and giving the perennial basil plenty of warmth, moisture and light, raising perennial basil becomes a doable project. Basil raised outside in colder climates need to be replanted each year, but under warmer conditions, basil is perennial.

Thai basil is easy to get started from seed. After the seed is sown, baby plants appear in about one to two weeks. The seedlings need to be thinned out to space each little plant about six to twelve inches apart. African Blue basil is a cross breed and the seeds from this cross is sterile. To grow African Blue, starters are taken from a parent plant and raised as individual plants.

Basil of all kinds needs six to eight hours of continual sunlight each day. Warmer climates provide this type of light, while colder climates need some help with the lighting requirements. An artificial light makes the difference for raising Thai and African Blue basil indoors. The light requirement with artificial light is upped to ten to twelve hours a day. In the summer in colder climates, a south facing garden bed or window sill will give plenty of light to keep the basil healthy.

Well drained soil is a must for basil. Letting too much water accumulate will cause the roots to rot and ruin your plant. Container planting requires that a regular watering schedule is kept. Basil likes lots of moisture, but not excessive moisture. Mulching helps retain the proper amount of moisture for Thai and African Blue basil between watering.

Thai and African Blue perennial basil reaches heights of two to three feet. Once full leaves are on the plant, harvesting can begin. Pinching the leaves and removing flowers helps strengthen the plant and retain the flavor of the basil. Regular harvest improves the health of the plant

Giving perennial basil the right amount of light, moisture and balanced pH in the soil is the secret to raising beautiful plants that produce year around. The pH level should be kept at a neutral level for optimum growing conditions. A small amount of liquid organic fertilizer helps the plants stay strong and healthy.

For a culinary delight, Thai and African blue perennial basil is the secret ingredient for great tasting dishes. The beauty of each variety of basil is immeasurable and will add that touch of elegance to any garden or home.

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The Allure of Black Flowers: Mysterious Beauties for Your Garden

The Allure of Black Flowers: Mysterious Beauties for Your Garden

Black flowers stop us in our tracks. They look rich, moody, and bold. They make green look greener and white look brighter. They add drama in one move. In other words, a single black bloom can turn a plain bed into a story.

But here is a helpful truth. Most “black” flowers are very deep shades of purple, maroon, or red. Our eyes read them as black, especially in shade or at dusk. This is good news. It means we have many choices. It also means we can shape the look with light, neighbors, and backdrop. With a few smart moves, we build a dark, elegant garden that still feels alive and warm.

We will walk through why black flowers work, which ones to grow, and how to design with them. We will talk care, color partners, and common mistakes. We will plan a full season, from late winter hellebores to fall dahlias. Simple steps. Big impact. That is our path.

Why Dark Blooms Work So Well

Black flowers carry mystery. They whisper, not shout. They draw us closer. This is powerful in design. When we slow down to look, we notice edges, velvety petals, and subtle shine. We feel texture. We see depth. A dark bloom is not flat. It is layered and plush.

There is also contrast. Black makes bright colors pop. A white daisy beside a black pansy looks crisp. Chartreuse leaves beside a black calla feel electric. Silver foliage beside a near-black tulip looks like moonlight. But most of all, black creates mood. It can be modern, classic, or wild. It fits a cottage border, a formal pot, or a sleek porch. It can echo a Gothic vibe or a minimalist one. It goes where you want it to go.

Light matters. In strong noon sun, black blooms can look harsh. In morning or evening light, they glow. In light shade, they look the most black. Backgrounds help too. Dark blooms vanish against deep brown mulch or dark fences. They stand out against pale gravel, lime foliage, or light stone. Instead of hiding them, give them a stage.

Form and finish matter. Simple, satin petals feel sleek. Ruffled, peony-like blooms feel luxurious. Spiky forms, like salvias or irises, add energy. Round forms, like dahlias, feel lush. Mix a few forms and you get motion without chaos. After more than one season, you will learn which forms your eye loves best.

Finally, black blooms make a small garden feel curated. One well-placed plant can do the work of many. That saves time and money, and it keeps beds clean and clear. You edit more. You stress less. You enjoy more.

Black Flowers to Try Now

Below you’ll find a mix of stars. Some are easy annuals. Some are trusty perennials. Some are bulbs for a seasonal show. Pick a few for spring, summer, and fall. Mix textures. Leave room for foliage allies. Then watch the drama unfold.

Tulip ‘Queen of Night’ (and ‘Paul Scherer’)

  • Type: Spring bulb
  • Look: Deep, velvety petals that read as black from a few steps away
  • Height: 18–24 inches
  • Light: Full sun to light shade
  • Notes: Plant bulbs in fall in well-drained soil. Group in clumps of 7–15 for a strong show. Pair with white tulips or pale daffodils for crisp contrast.

Iris ‘Before the Storm’ (Bearded Iris)

  • Type: Perennial rhizome
  • Look: Inky standards and falls with a soft sheen
  • Height: 30–36 inches
  • Light: Full sun
  • Notes: Needs sharp drainage. Plant rhizomes at soil level. Divide every 3–4 years. Pair with silver artemisia or lavender to brighten the clump.

Hellebore ‘Onyx Odyssey’ (Lenten Rose group)

  • Type: Evergreen perennial
  • Look: Cup-shaped, near-black blooms in late winter to early spring
  • Height: 12–18 inches
  • Light: Part shade
  • Notes: Loves rich, well-drained soil. Long bloom window when little else flowers. Underplant with snowdrops or ferns for a soft woodland feel.

Hyacinth ‘Dark Dimension’

  • Type: Spring bulb
  • Look: Glossy, deep spikes that scent the path
  • Height: 8–12 inches
  • Light: Full sun to part shade
  • Notes: Great in pots by doors where you can enjoy the perfume. Mix with pale pansies for a soft edge.

Viola ‘Molly Sanderson’ (Black Viola)

  • Type: Cool-season annual or short-lived perennial
  • Look: True near-black faces with sunny centers
  • Height: 6–8 inches
  • Light: Sun to light shade (prefers cool weather)
  • Notes: Ideal for spring or fall planters. Deadhead for repeat blooms. Tuck along paths for tiny bursts of shadow and shine.

Petunia ‘Black Velvet’

  • Type: Warm-season annual
  • Look: Velvety, funnel-shaped flowers that soak up light
  • Height/Spread: 8–12 inches tall, 12–24 inches wide
  • Light: Full sun
  • Notes: Feed lightly and trim mid-summer to keep full. Stunning in a container with lime sweet potato vine and white verbena.

Calla Lily ‘Black Star’ or ‘Black Forest’ (Zantedeschia)

  • Type: Tender bulb/rhizome (often grown as annual or lifted for winter)
  • Look: Sleek, near-black spathes; glossy leaves
  • Height: 12–24 inches
  • Light: Sun to part shade
  • Notes: Loves even moisture and good drainage. Great for modern pots. Let foliage yellow before lifting corms in cold regions.

Dahlia ‘Arabian Night’ (and other dark cultivars)

  • Type: Tender tuber
  • Look: Deep, wine-black petals; formal or semi-formal forms
  • Height: 3–4 feet
  • Light: Full sun
  • Notes: Stake early. Deadhead for constant bloom. Lift tubers after frost in cold zones. Incredible for cutting with white cosmos and eucalyptus.

Cosmos atrosanguineus (Chocolate Cosmos)

  • Type: Tender perennial often treated as an annual
  • Look: Velvet, dark red-black daisies; cocoa scent in warm evenings
  • Height: 18–24 inches
  • Light: Full sun
  • Notes: Needs lean, well-drained soil. Too much fertilizer makes leaves, not flowers. Perfect in a moon-garden where scent carries at night.

Scabiosa ‘Black Knight’ (Pincushion Flower)

  • Type: Annual or short-lived perennial depending on climate
  • Look: Deep, inky buttons on wiry stems
  • Height: 24–36 inches
  • Light: Full sun
  • Notes: Excellent cut flower. Attracts pollinators. Pairs well with airy grasses and pale yarrow.

Aquilegia ‘Black Barlow’ (Columbine)

  • Type: Perennial
  • Look: Spurless, double blooms in deep, dark maroon-black
  • Height: 24–36 inches
  • Light: Sun to part shade
  • Notes: Self-sows politely. Lovely in cottage borders with foxgloves and ferns. Avoid heavy heat stress with afternoon shade.

Hollyhock ‘Nigra’

  • Type: Biennial or short-lived perennial
  • Look: Tall spires of almost-black saucers with soft eyes
  • Height: 5–8 feet
  • Light: Full sun
  • Notes: Stake if windy. Allow some seed to mature for next year’s show. A classic behind pale roses or white picket fences.

Rose ‘Black Baccara’ or ‘Black Magic’

  • Type: Hybrid tea
  • Look: Buds and petals that move from deep burgundy to black cherry
  • Height: 3–5 feet
  • Light: Full sun
  • Notes: Roses love sun, air, and steady water. Mulch to keep roots cool. Stunning in bouquets with white lisianthus.

Iris germanica (near-black cultivars beyond ‘Before the Storm’)

  • Type: Perennial
  • Look: Glossy falls and standards in ink tones
  • Notes: Mix several black irises with a single pale yellow for a simple, high-impact palette.

Nigella ‘Midnight’ (Love-in-a-Mist)

  • Type: Annual
  • Look: Smoky, deep flowers with fine, lacy foliage
  • Height: 12–18 inches
  • Light: Full sun
  • Notes: Direct-sow. Nice seedpods for drying. Good filler around strong black focal blooms.

Bat Flower (Tacca chantrieri)

  • Type: Tropical perennial (indoor/outdoor container in cool zones)
  • Look: Wild, bat-like “wings” in near-black with whisker-like bracts
  • Height: 2–3 feet
  • Light: Bright, indirect light or dappled shade
  • Notes: Lovers of humidity. A conversation piece for shaded patios or bright bathrooms.

Zantedeschia rehmannii hybrids (deep forms)

  • Type: Tender rhizome
  • Notes: For a softer black look, blend with pewter heuchera and white bacopa.

Foliage Allies (not flowers, but perfect partners):

  • Black Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon ‘Nigrescens’): True black blades. Great edging along pale stone.
  • Heuchera ‘Obsidian’: Dark, glossy leaves to echo blooms.
  • Aeonium ‘Zwartkop’: Sculptural rosettes for pots in mild climates.
  • Dusty Miller (Senecio cineraria): Silver that makes black read darker.
  • Sweet Potato Vine ‘Margarita’: Chartreuse trails that light the scene.

Quick Design Recipes (copy-ready):

  • Moonlit Urn: Petunia ‘Black Velvet’ + white verbena + dusty miller. Keep trimmed. Feed lightly.
  • Gothic Cottage Border: Hollyhock ‘Nigra’ (back) + ‘Black Barlow’ columbine (mid) + viola ‘Molly Sanderson’ (front). Thread in lamb’s ear for silver.
  • Modern Patio Pot: Calla ‘Black Star’ + black mondo grass + white lobelia. Top-dress with pale gravel.
  • Evening Scent Bed: Chocolate cosmos + night-scented stock + silver thyme. Place near a bench for twilight.

Color Pairing Rules of Thumb:

  • White + Black = crisp and classic.
  • Chartreuse + Black = high energy.
  • Silver + Black = cool and elegant.
  • Pastels + Black = vintage and soft.
  • Hot brights + Black = bold and festive.

Season-by-Season Map:

  • Late Winter–Early Spring: Hellebores; black violas; hyacinth ‘Dark Dimension’.
  • Mid–Late Spring: Tulip ‘Queen of Night’; black irises; columbines.
  • Summer: Petunias; scabiosa ‘Black Knight’; calla lilies; chocolate cosmos; dark salvias.
  • Late Summer–Fall: Dahlias; hollyhock ‘Nigra’; repeat petunias; seedpods for texture.

Care Basics That Keep Black Blooms Sharp:

  • Soil: Well-drained is key. Add compost to hold moisture without waterlogging.
  • Water: Deep, even moisture for bulbs and roses; regular checks for containers.
  • Feeding: Go light. Too much nitrogen makes leaves, not flowers.
  • Deadhead: Remove spent blooms to push new ones.
  • Staking: Tall forms (hollyhocks, dahlias) need support early.
  • Airflow: Space plants so leaves dry fast. This keeps foliage healthy.
  • Clean edges: Neat lines make dark colors look intentional, not muddy.

How to Make “Black” Read Blacker:

  • Place blooms near pale stone, light pavers, or white trim.
  • Add silver or lime foliage as a halo.
  • Avoid dark fences and dark mulch right behind the bloom.
  • Catch morning or evening light. That is when petals glow.
  • Plant in groups of odd numbers (3, 5, 7) for mass and clarity.

Cutting Garden Tips (Bring the Drama Indoors):

  • Cut in early morning when stems are plump.
  • Use clean snips. Strip lower leaves.
  • Place stems in lukewarm water with a tiny bit of food (or a clean vase with frequent water changes).
  • Build simple palettes: black dahlia + white cosmos; black iris + pale peonies; black scabiosa + feathery grasses.
  • Add a single chartreuse stem (bells of Ireland or euphorbia) to wake the whole bouquet.

Pollinators and Wildlife:

Many “black” blooms still carry nectar and pollen. Scabiosa, cosmos, violas, and single dahlias draw bees and butterflies. Add a shallow water dish with stones. Skip heavy pesticides. In other words, we can have drama and still be kind to life in the garden.

Small-Space and Balcony Wins:

  • Choose compact forms: violas, petunias, small dahlias, callas.
  • Use tall, narrow pots to stack layers: thriller (calla), filler (white verbena), spiller (lime sweet potato).
  • Keep a color plan: two colors plus green is plenty.
  • Rotate pots to catch the best light and keep blooms uniform.

Common Mistakes (and Easy Fixes):

  • Mistake: Planting black blooms against dark fences.
    Fix: Add a pale trellis, silver foliage, or light gravel.
  • Mistake: Using only dark blooms.
    Fix: Add white or lime accents so eyes have a place to rest.
  • Mistake: Overfeeding.
    Fix: Hold fertilizer. Feed lightly and focus on compost.
  • Mistake: Letting pots dry out hard.
    Fix: Water deep and steady. Mulch pots with fine bark.
  • Mistake: Buying “almost black” plants that look purple in your sun and feeling disappointed. All black colored plants are dark purple. There is no true black, YET!
    Fix: Test one plant. View it morning, noon, and dusk. Place it where it reads the darkest.

Budget-Friendly Tricks:

  • Start with seeds for scabiosa, nigella, and violas.
  • Buy bulbs (tulips, hyacinths) in fall specials.
  • Divide bearded irises from a friend’s patch.
  • Save dahlia tubers each fall if your climate is cold.
  • Use foliage allies (dusty miller, black mondo) to carry the look all year.

Climate Notes (Simple and Real):

  • Hot summers: Give afternoon shade to violas and columbines. Petunias will thrive with water and airflow.
  • Wet springs: Plant bulbs in raised spots for drainage.
  • Cold winters: Treat callas and dahlias as lift-and-store treasures.
  • Mild coasts: Aeonium ‘Zwartkop’ and black mondo grass shine year-round.

A One-Bed Black-and-White Plan (10’ x 4’ border):

  • Back row: 3 hollyhock ‘Nigra’ spaced along the back (stake early).
  • Mid row: 5 bearded irises ‘Before the Storm’, staggered.
  • Front row: A drift of 9 violas ‘Molly Sanderson’, dotted with 5 clumps of dusty miller.
  • Spring bulbs: Tuck 25 tulips ‘Queen of Night’ in clusters between iris fans.
  • Summer annuals swap: Pull spent tulips and add 5 petunias ‘Black Velvet’.
  • Edge: A ribbon of black mondo grass for a graphic line.

This small plan shows how layers, repeats, and simple colors tell a bold story.

Container Trio for a Porch (cohesive set):

  • Large pot: Calla ‘Black Star’ + black mondo grass + white bacopa.
  • Medium pot: Petunia ‘Black Velvet’ + lime sweet potato ‘Margarita’.
  • Small pot: Viola ‘Molly Sanderson’ tucked with silver thyme.
    Keep the same pot style. Vary height. Now the porch looks designed, not cluttered.

Soil and Planting, Step by Step (universal basics):

  1. Loosen soil 8–12 inches deep. Remove roots and rocks.
  2. Mix in 1–2 inches of compost.
  3. Set plants at the same depth they grew in the pot (bulbs follow packet depth).
  4. Water to settle. Add a thin mulch layer, keeping stems clear.
  5. Check moisture with your finger. Water when the top inch is dry.
  6. Deadhead weekly. Trim petunias mid-season to refresh.
  7. Every change of season, reassess. Move pots, add a silver accent, edit extras.

Troubleshooting Quick Guide:

  • Faded color: Too much sun or hungry soil. Add morning sun, afternoon shade; feed lightly.
  • Floppy stems: Not enough light or no staking. Increase light and add supports early.
  • Few blooms: Over-rich soil or low light. Ease fertilizer and improve sun exposure.
  • Mildew on leaves: Increase airflow, water at soil level, remove crowded stems.
  • Chewed buds: Scout for slugs or beetles at dusk. Use simple barriers and hand-pick.

Why This Palette Wins in Every Style:

  • Modern: Black + white + clean lines = gallery feel.
  • Cottage: Black + pastel + mixed forms = storybook charm.
  • Mediterranean: Black + silver + gravel = coastal cool.
  • Woodland edge: Black + ferns + hellebores = quiet luxury.
  • Halloween or evening party: Black + gold lights + pumpkins = festive and fun.

A Note on Expectations:

No garden is pure black. And that is the joy. Near-black tones shift with weather and light. Some days they look like velvet ink. Other days they glow wine-red. Let that play happen. Lean into it. The change keeps beds alive and interesting all season long.

Care Calendar (simple prompts):

  • Winter: Plan. Order seeds and bulbs. Clean tools.
  • Early Spring: Plant violas. Feed beds lightly. Watch for slugs.
  • Mid Spring: Enjoy tulips and irises. Deadhead as they fade.
  • Early Summer: Plant petunias, scabiosa, callas. Stake dahlias.
  • Mid–Late Summer: Trim, deadhead, water deep. Cut bouquets.
  • Fall: Enjoy dahlias and hollyhocks. Lift tender tubers and corms where needed. Plant fall bulbs for next spring’s black show.

Editing for Impact (the designer’s secret):

Every two weeks, step back 15 feet. Squint a little. Notice what pops and what blends. Remove one thing. Add one light accent. In other words, treat the border like a great photo. Adjust contrast. Balance the frame. Small edits make a huge difference.

Kids and Pets?
Black flowers are just colors, not a hazard by themselves. But as always, check each plant before nibbling hands or paws are near. Place thorny roses back from busy paths. Keep vases out of reach.

Sourcing Tips (general, not brands):
Look for named cultivars for reliable color. Visit plant sales for divisions of irises and hellebores. Ask local growers which forms read darkest in your light. A short chat can save a season.

Mindset That Makes It Fun:

Start small. Choose one area to “paint” with black. Add a silver edge and one light partner. See how it feels for a month. Then expand. When we grow by steps, we learn faster and enjoy more. We waste less money and fewer weekends. Gardening should be a joy, not a chore list.

Midnight Petals, Daylight Joy

Black flowers give us what few colors can. They add depth, mood, and elegance in one move. They frame our bright plants. They slow us down, and they reward a closer look. When we pair them with white, silver, or lime, the whole bed wakes up. When we plan a season—hellebore to tulip to petunia to dahlia—the show never really stops.

So let’s bring these mysterious beauties home. Let’s pick one pot, one border, or one sunny strip by the walk. We’ll lay down good soil. We’ll add a dark bloom and a light friend. We’ll water, trim, and enjoy the small rituals. After more than a few weeks, we’ll see how powerful these quiet stars can be.

Ink and sunlight. Velvet and sparkle. That is the charm of black flowers. And that is why your garden, and ours, can hold both drama and delight—every single day.

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How to Grow Grapes – Backyard Grape Growing Secrets Revealed

Contrary to popular speculation or belief, growing grapes in your backyard is not as difficult as one may presume. When someone mentions the idea of starting a grape garden, one may immediately assume that without acres of free land at their disposal, it will be almost impossible to be successful. This is absolutely NOT true!

As a matter of fact, there are many amateur grape growers today who are content with their small vine garden in their backyard. The grapes they produce are excellent for eating and making wine and the little effort put into it has a high return.

As a full time grape farmer, I have learned the secrets of what it takes to grow the best tasting grapes for decades. As a child I would work with my father on his farm planting and pruning grapevines all day long and continued working with him as a teenager and even now as an adult and family man. I want to teach you how to grow grapes and share with you the secrets of keeping a successful grapevine garden so that you too can enjoy what these delicious fruits have to offer.

First of all backyard grape growing does not require expensive fertilizers or manures. You can get some really good vines from ordinary soil. Another goodie is that you won’t have to invest a lot of time in your garden because the roots themselves will seek out what they need. The only thing you need to concern yourself with is where to put the vine itself.

It really is quite amazing how no matter where you plant your vines, all you have to do is train the vines around your house towards the well sun lit areas. If you have an open garden where the sun hits all day long, then that will work even better.

The best time to plant your grapevines is during the fall. Do not let the vines fruit during the first season of planting. Instead, always remember to cut down your vines to about four buds. The reason for this is that those four buds will become the strongest points and will lead the rest of the vine up the wall where you planted them in. You want your grapevine to use all of its energy producing a strong wood for the next season because it is during the second season of growth that you get the best grapes.

Remember that the wood that is born this year will lead to next year’s fruits. So during the first year, clip away any flower buds that may form, thus making sure that the vine’s energy is focused on producing wood.

When pruning during the summer, you want to cut off all new growth while leaving the old wood to provide for future fruit. Only remove old growth when they become a straggling nuisance hanging all over your garden. When pruning in the fall or early winter, you should cut back the vines this time to about five to six buds only so that once again, the vines will use all their energy for producing strong wood during the winter.

Most grape vines ripen during the late summer, early September. At this time you can enjoy the best tasting home grown grapes and continue preparing your vines for future growths.

Wait! Don’t go planting some grapevines you purchased at your local nursery and then wonder why you are getting poor results. Many of these vines come from other states and were cut from a healthy patch which will never have the strength to ripen once taken home. Learn the fundamental procedures of backyard grape growing first before making a mistake!

Tips For Successful Backyard Grape Growing

done properly. Grapevines are perennial plants and will grow for years to come. There are a few things to consider before you just jump in and start planting your grapevines. Otherwise, mistakes made at planting will haunt you in the future.

Grapes need lots of sunshine. One of the biggest mistakes that the home gardener makes when growing grapes is to plant them in the shade under a tree or where they get shaded by houses most of the day. If you watch wild grapevines grow, you will notice they make all efforts to climb trees and shrubs to get into the daylight. Without proper sunlight, proper ripeness cannot be obtained. Be sure the spot you choose has good sun most of the day.

A second mistake that many home gardeners make is to not take into account the grape variety’s growth habit and vigor. These two factors come into play when planting the grapevine and deciding on how to trellis the vine.

Vigorous varieties need lots of space. You can find out how vigorous a variety is by consulting your local nursery where you bought your vines. Vigorous varieties need eight feet between vines when planting. Less vigorous varieties can be planted closer at six feet between vines. Very low vigor vines can be planted as close as four feet.

Growth habit determines the trellis type and how the grapevine will be trained and pruned. Grape varieties with a large portion of their ancestry coming from wild American species tend to droop. These are like the wild vines that grow to the top of small trees and shrubs then cascade downward during the summer. The gardener will find that it is best to mimic this natural growth.

Vines of this type will be trained to a high wire about six feet off the ground. The grapevines are pruned to two to four long canes each year. As the shoots grow each year from the canes left at pruning time, they will grow outward from each side and soon start drooping towards the ground, forming a curtain of leaves by the end of the growing season.

Many varieties have the European grape, V.vinifera, in their ancestry. The European grape varieties tend to have a more upright growth. These grape varieties need a more extensive trellis system. At least four wires are needed to contain them. The first wire is approximately three feet off the ground with the two additional wires at eight inch intervals above the bottom wire. The vines are trained to a trunk that extends to the bottom wire.

Two to four canes are pruned and tied to the bottom wire on each side of the trunk. As the shoots grow during the spring and summer they are tied straight up to the wires above. Once the shoots have reached approximately 16 inches above the top wire, they are cut off at the tips. This “hedging” prevents further growth and shading of the vine below.

Grapes need a good water supply when they are actively growing in the spring and summer. They should be watered at least once a week in areas of little rain. More often under drought conditions. This watering should be continued until the berries begin to turn color. After coloring, watering is not needed and will in fact slow the ripening process. Once the leaves have fallen in the fall, one last large watering should be undertaken before the ground freezes to get the vines through the winter.

Perhaps the biggest mistake I see with home gardeners growing grapes is neglecting pruning the vines each year. This is a must! Without pruning the grapevine becomes an overgrown tangled mess. The grapevines overbear and the berries don’t ripen properly. Disease sets in as the vine is over shaded and doesn’t receive drying winds. The vines will weaken over time and eventually die before their time.

Pruning removes 90-95% of the previous year’s growth. It keeps the vines in balance and aids in controlling the crop and ripening the fruit. Pruning the grapevine is an art, not a science. Information on grapevine pruning can be obtained through your local Ag Extension agent. They have agricultural bulletins that detail the pruning process.

Growing grapevines can be a nice hobby that will provide you and your family with fresh fruit or grapes to make wine with. Table grape varieties and wine varieties are distinct. Make sure you are planting the proper varieties for the wanted purpose. Home gardeners should also make sure that the varieties they are planting are adapted to their local climate. Some varieties cannot take cold winters, while others can tolerate freezing temperatures down to -25-30F.

Varieties that have American grape species in their ancestry can tolerate colder winters. Make sure you consult with your nurseryman to fit the variety you are planting to your conditions. The variety you choose must also be able to ripen in your climate. I see too many home gardeners planting varieties that take up to 170 days or more to ripen in areas that have only 150 days or less in their growing seasons.

If you are thinking of growing grapevines in your backyard or garden, be sure to consider the above factors before you start planting. Choose your grape varieties based upon what you plan to use them for, how they are adapted to the local growing conditions, and plan the trellis according to the variety’s growth habit. I wish you all the luck in your endeavor.

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Asian Vegetables You Can Grow in Your Organic Garden

As oriental dishes are becoming more popular in America, so are the vegetables used in those dishes. You can grow these unusual Asian vegetables in your own organic garden.

Mizuna: Also know as Japanese Greens, Japanese Mustard, Spider Mustard and many more.

Mizuna is a compact green plant with fringed, dark green leaves that can be used cooked or fresh. This plant has been described to be slightly spicy and have mild peppery flavor. One can use the leaves in a fresh salad, cooked in a stir fry, steamed, or even boiled. Add them to a clear soup to add color and texture.

The best time to sow seeds is in early spring. You will want to grow this plant like spinach. Space the plants about 6 inches apart. This plant is good for successive plantings. You can harvest the entire plant, or just some of the leaves.

Shungiku: Also known as Chrysanthemum, Tong Hao in Chinese, Ssukgat in Korean, and Kikuna in Japanese.

Shungiku is a beautiful plant that has single yellow flower which are edible, but it is mostly known for the leafy green leaves. Both the leaves and the flowers can be enjoyed in a fresh salad either alone or with other Asian vegetables. You may use the leaves in stir fry, casseroles, soups or many other hot dishes although it is recommended that you wait to the last minute to add the Shungiku leaves. These leaves cook quickly and are known to loose their structure.

Sow seeds in early to mid spring and early fall. This vegetable will not do well during summer conditions causing it to go into premature flowering. You may harvest individual leaves or the entire plant. Thin the plants as needed while enjoying the thinned plants in your favorite dishes.

Daikon: Also known as Chinese Radish, Aukobi-Daikon, or Asian Radish.

Daikon is a torpedo shaped radish that comes in many colors but most commonly white. Larger breeds can get up to 2 ft long and 3 in wide. The root (radish part) is mildly spicy and adds flavor to salads, sauces, and stir fries. In Korea, the daikon is traditionally made into a diced sweet pickle. You can steam the peppery leaves or add them to a soup.

Sows seeds during the spring for a summer harvest, and fall for a winter harvest. When purchasing your seeds, select the variety for the season you are planning on planting. Plants should be spread 6 inches apart. They take about 60 days until harvest. Carefully dig up the entire plant.

Growing unusual Asian vegetables in your own organic garden is fun and exciting. If you decide to grow these or any other Asian vegetables, you better get your Asian cookbook out and get ready to make some delicious meals!

Vegetable Gardening in Small Spaces

Do not let the lack of space be a reason or an excuse to not have a vegetable garden at your home. Thousands of people are in the same situation as you and that is the space they have available to grow fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs from seeds is very limited.

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Maybe you live in a big city and land available is scarce, or you reside in a condominium or apartment and the only thing available to you is a patio. Either way, there are some great solutions to help you through this. You can be growing your own fresh veggies in no time.

I recently spoke with Tracy Godsey who runs the small container blog Eden’s Container. Tracy started her small space vegetable gardening adventures when growing fruits, vegetables and herbs in containers is all she could do with her limited apartment space, which consisted mainly of a balcony.

“I currently grow herbs on my patio including basil, parsley oregano, thyme, mint and chives. The basil and parsley are the only plants that won’t overwinter in my containers outdoors.”, says Tracy. “In a vegetable garden, full-sized plants can grow in any pot that holds 3-5 gallons of soil. Large plants like tomatoes need 5 gallons, while plants with shallow roots like lettuce can get by in a 3 gallon pot. Even smaller plants like radishes can grow well in trays and produce a harvest very quickly. If you don’t have a container handy, you can make one by filling a plastic tube (such as a garbage bag or bread wrapper) with potting soil. These types of tubes are known as grow bags.”

Tracy reminded me of a very important factor that I had not thought about and that was the weight of what you are growing. If you are on a second floor balcony where weight will be an issue, Tracy recommends, selecting smaller heirloom varieties and grow them in hanging baskets.

Just because you are limited on space does not mean you are limited on what you can grow. Remember to select fruits, vegetables and herbs that you and your family will consume. Since space is a premium you do not want to waste any with items that will get discarded. Be careful not to over water your items in containers and make sure your containers have adequate drainage holes. To protect from the loss of dirt through those drainage holes use coffee filters at the bottom or paper towels. Both options allow water to pass through but not dirt.

On a final note, “never put ordinary dirt in containers, only potting soil,” says Tracy. “You will have much better success since the soil is already formulated for growing plants in pots.”

Now it’s your turn to roll your sleeves up, get some containers, fill them with potting soil and plant the seeds of your favorite fruits, veggies and herbs. Don’t let space, or in this case, the lack thereof, prohibit you from eating fresh from the garden.

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Growing Tomato Plants

tomato-tiny-tim

Tomatoes from the grocery store shelves taste like-NOTHING! Why? Most of the tomatoes purchased from grocery stores have been harvested days before they reach the grocery, treated to turn red, and bred to stay firm and not bruise on the shelves. Plant breeding for the last fifty years has concentrated on producing a tomato that can survive anything-except for a taste test.

Growing Tomatoes – Heirloom Vs Hybrid Varieties

Gardeners and tomato aficionados alike have given up on the produce aisle for anything other than garnish. Instead, they turn to seed and plant catalogues to find tasty varieties to grow. When viewing a plant catalogue of tomato seed sources, you will be confronted with hundreds of varieties. Huge and tiny, purple, red, yellow and orange tomatoes. Perfectly round, almost flat, and lemon-shaped tomatoes. Seed catalogues highlight another variable to understand regarding tomato growing: heirloom versus hybrid tomatoes.

Heirloom Tomatoes

Tasty and unique, heirloom varieties are endless. This category of plant is where you will find purple, orange and yellow tomatoes sharing catalogue space with red ones. Heirloom varieties are “open pollinated” plants, which means that if you harvest seeds from a plant, prepare them, save them, and plant them next year, you will grow the same plant. Heirloom varieties were developed over time, in isolated gardens and communities, thus developing unique characteristics.

Heirlooms require particular growing conditions, and each variety is different. The key to success with heirlooms is choosing a variety that is well suited to your growing conditions. Because heirloom tomatoes have not been bred for generations to promote vigor and disease resistance, these varieties need a little bit of extra care. They are, however, worth the extra work. Heirlooms will produce lush, flavorful tomatoes of every shape, size and hue, for every culinary taste or need.

Hybrid Tomatoes

These tomatoes are the result of two different tomato varieties being “crossed” or joined, and the seeds harvested from the resulting plants. Hybrid tomato seeds will produce the tomato with hybrid characteristics for only one plant generation. If you harvest your tomatoes from the hybrid plant and plant those seeds next year, you will not have the same plant.

Hybrid tomatoes have been bred for disease resistance, uniformity, and ability to withstand mechanical harvesting, packing and shipping. Little time has been spent in enhancing flavor in hybrid tomatoes. Much like hybrid tea roses, hybrid tomatoes may be nice to look at, but they have few other desirable attributes.

For large-scale commercial tomato growers, hybrid tomatoes are a great help. For consumers expecting bright red tomatoes in the middle of winter, hybrids are a way to consume. For home gardeners, Heirloom varieties produce yields as large, and much more flavorful. Home gardeners have enough time an attention to successfully grow heirloom tomatoes and bring out their best qualities.

Choosing the Right Variety

Whether Heirlooms or Hybrids are your tomato of choice, you much choose tomato varieties that are well suited to your growing environment. Climates with high heat and humidity will help certain varieties flourish, while colder climates with shorter growing seasons require cultivation of plants that set fruit and mature faster.

What is the difference between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes?

When it comes to determinate and indeterminate tomatoes, the main difference is in how they grow. Determinate tomatoes are bred to grow a certain way and ripen all at once. They are mostly used for canning or sauces. Indeterminate tomatoes are bred to vine and grow continuously, so they are better for fresh eating.

Determinate tomatoes generally grow to be about two to four feet tall and have a compact, bushy growth habit. The fruit ripens all at once on these plants, making them ideal for canning or other recipes where you need a lot of ripe tomatoes all at once. Indeterminate tomatoes, on the other hand, can grow much larger, up to six feet or more. They have a vine-type growth habit and produce fruit throughout the season. Because of this, they are better suited for fresh eating.

When it comes to taste, there is no difference between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes. Both types can produce delicious fruits that are perfect for eating fresh or using in recipes. The only real difference is in how they are grown and how the fruit ripens. So, if you¢â‚¬â„¢re looking for a tomato plant that will produce a lot of fruit all at once, go with a determinate variety. If you want a plant that will keep producing fruit throughout the season, choose an indeterminate variety.

Container Gardening Ideas For Your Home

Many gardeners have given up on the idea of a garden because they lack space, time or lots of experience. But if growing plants is an interest of yours container gardening could be your answer. Container gardens will allow you to enjoy “playing in the dirt” without investing a lot of time or money. You can get very creative in container gardening using vegetables, decorative grasses or flowers and herbs. You can plant a container garden with any plant that would grow outside. The trick is to come up with some creative ideas for your container garden.

You should do some research at your local nursery or on the internet to choose the plants you wish to grow to help you come up with some ideas. Try to use plants that complement each other and have the same basic needs for water, air and light.

A container garden idea that has taken off recently is the landscape container. Some people plant a simple evergreen tree in a container with good drainage to place at their front door. Or you could plant an assortment of flowers for a bright and beautiful vista. If you do plant flowers, add plants that spill over the sides of the container to add more visuals and interest. What ever container gardening idea you can come up with can be placed on a deck, patio, and balcony or by the front doors. Put them somewhere that your family and friends can enjoy.

You can grow vegetables in containers but choose wisely. Vegetables like squash and pole beans need lots of space, while tomatoes need a deep pot. When you grow your own vegetables you will have tasty produce not the bland stuff that is in the grocery store. Nothing tastes better than a tomato right off the vine. There are many chefs and good home cooks that grow their own for just this reason. Don’t forget to pot some herbs, they are pretty plants and add zest to your meals.

But don’t just stick to vegetables and herbs; why not add fruit trees too? Instead of using an evergreen tree, pot a fruit tree instead. There are many dwarf varieties available that work best in pots since with pots there is less soil therefore less nutrients to draw from. If you live in a year round warm climate citrus trees are perfect. In other regions, stick to pear, apple and cherry trees. Another good container gardening idea is to grow strawberries. With strawberries climate does not matter since you can bring the container inside. Fresh strawberries are amazingly sweet and delicious. Imagine how good a bowl of fresh strawberries will be, strawberries that you have just picked.

Remember that container gardens dry out more quickly than traditional gardens. Be diligent about watering your plants if you don’t want your container gardening ideas to wither and die. Container gardens must be fertilized too. Keep a small notebook handy so you can write down the needs of your plant so you will always know when to water or feed. Keep an eye out for pests. If you find a container that has an infestation, isolate it immediately and treat it with a natural pesticide. You don’t want harsh chemicals on fruits, vegetables or herbs. A good natural pesticide recipe is:

In a jar, combine 1 teaspoon dishwashing liquid and 1 cup vegetable oil. Shake vigorously. In an empty spray bottle, combine 2 teaspoons of this mixture and 1 cup water. Use at ten-day intervals (or more often if needed) to rid plants of whiteflies, mites, aphids, scales, and other pests.
 
So, do some research, come up with your own unique container gardening ideas, gather your materials and get to work. The fruits of your labor will be amazing.

Happy Container Gardening!

Greenhouse Growing For Tomato Plants

There are a couple of ways for approaching tomato growing in a greenhouse, you can either dig and prepare the soil of the greenhouse ready to accept the tomato plants or you can grow the plants in a container such as a plant pot (12″ diameter) or growbag.

Realistically most growbags that are available which can be 3 to 7 gallons in size are only enough to support two plants. There are ways in which you can push this out to 3 plants but for the cost of a growbag its probably as well just to stick to 2 plants, particularly if you take good care of them and produce lots of fruit.

If you go for pots then you should sterilize them before use, to do this you can use a dilute solution of a suitable disinfectant, something like clorox fluid is perfect for this task.

While we are on this subject, you really should wipe down the inside of your greenhouse with disinfectant as well to ensure any residual contaminants that could also cause disease are removed from the glass.

One of the reasons I am suggesting using large pots or growbags for growing tomato plants is because the soil in the greenhouse is going to need to be dug out and replaced every 2 or 3 years anyway to ensure that you get rid of any build up of disease and also because the soil will be pretty much spent in terms of nutrients.

Space is limited in a greenhouse so the best option for plant varieties is to use the indeterminate variety of tomato plant i.e. a vine plant. You can prune the plant to the required size, leaving about 4 to 6 trusses on the main stem, which is about 6′ to 7′ in height, greenhouse size allowing. This will give you lots of fruit over an extended period. You will have to pinch out the main stem when you have enough trusses to stop further growth.

As an aside, using the bush variety is less convenient for greenhouses because they, as the name suggests, form a determinant size of bush without pruning which is probably a little too large in diameter for the average greenhouse. The fruit also has a tendency to all come at once.

Irrespective of the growing method you choose, you should start to feed the tomatoes at the first sign of fruit and for the duration of the growing period, twice a week should be sufficient. Also as you are in a greenhouse regular and consistent watering is also very important and I recommend 2 to 3 times a day with water that has been allowed to warm in the greenhouse.

As the end of the season nears a way of helping the last remaining fruit ripen is to hang a couple of bananas in the apex of the greenhouse. If that fails to ripen the last bit of fruit you can always use the green tomatoes for making a delicious chutney.

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Herb Gardening

herb garden ideas

Top Three Herb Garden Plants

Here are my top three herb garden plants. That is, if you’re primarily gardening for culinary herbs. With this list in hand on your first trip to the nursery, you’re bound to have success in finding what not only works in your yard but choices that will mesh well with your taste buds.

1. Basil Plants

Basil is the best herb for pesto, hands down. Its leaves have a warm and spicy flavor. You need to only add a small amount of this delightful herb in such dishes as soups, salads and sauces. Basil is also particular suited, by the way, to season anything dish with tomato flavoring. Don’t hesitate to use basil to enhance the flavor of your meat, poultry or fish. You can even add it to your morning breakfast omelet.

You’ll want to start your basil plants early in the spring, preferably in a greenhouse or a sun-drenched windowsill. Early in the summer transplant this herb to your garden. Or, if you have the courage, sow basil seeds directly into her garden early in the spring. Or you may want to try your hand at both methods, just in case those seeds don’t catch.

2. Chives

Who doesn’t love some fresh chives on a hot, newly baked potato? If you’re as mad about this herb as me, then you’ve already noticed that chives have a mildly onion taste. This makes them an excellent addition to salads, any egg and cheese dish, cream cheese, sandwich spreads and sauces. And, oh, by the way, don’t restrict chives to just the baked potato. Taste how in adds a little zing to your mashed potatoes as well.

If you plan on growing chives from starter plants, then you’ll want to get these into your garden in the early spring. And you’ll want to give these plants plenty of room. My recommendation is to plant them a good 9 to 12 inches from each other.

If you plan to plant the chives seeds, then plant them in the fall or the spring, digging down a good half inch and setting the seeds in rows that are spaced about 12 inches apart.

3. Coriander

Now here’s a versatile herb. Its versatility is so great that different parts of this plant are known as different herbs. Grinding the dried seeds to use them in your meats, like veal, ham or pork? You’re using coriander. Using the leaves to add to some Indian or Asian dishes? You’re actually using cilantro.

And of course you can use the roots of coriander as well. If you can’t use them right away, don’t worry you can freeze these. They can be used to flavor soups. Or chop the roots and serve with avocados. You’ll find this deliciously delightful!

Even a novice herbalist should have no problem growing coriander from seeds (I know I did it my first time around and there was no novice who was more naive and at a loss than I!).

Sow these seeds in the early spring. Dig a hole about ‚¼ inch in depth. Plant them in rows that are just about a foot apart. Once the seedlings appear, you’ll want to thin them down some, making sure they’re at least 6 inches from the other.

Use Fresh Herbs

Tiny as they are, herbs are enjoyable and easy to grow. Using them in your cooking allows you the possibility to change the flavors in your dishes in different ways. The freshest of them are great in soups, stews, vegetables, pasta, salads and breads.

Different kinds of herbs create different tastes in foods. If you are new to using herbs, work on them slowly, adding just a little at a time will help you adjust as you go along until you have it just right. As you get used to cooking with herbs, you will learn the best ones that can be associated with particular foods. Storing herbs is also not difficult. Even fresh ones will keep in the refrigerator for several days. But once herbs are frozen, remember that they would be best when only used in cooking and not as garnishes.

For instance, basil is paired with tomatoes, oregano with sauces, rosemary with roasts, and chives with butter or cream cheese. Although these herbs are not limited to these items, you will see them paired most often these ways. If you think oregano can be ideal for a particular food you have in mind, use your imagination and go for it. You never know your experiment will discover you a new-fangled recipe perfectly flavored with the herb.

You will also see that even the simplest meal may seem like a gourmet delight, no wonder why gourmets are masters in associating herbs with food. You can even make herb vinegar for your salad dressing and herb oils that you can use for recipes that call for oil. You can create your own robust-tasting marinades and herb-inspired spreads and rubs. You can make herb butter by mixing butter with minced fresh herb. You will find it fun using your own herb mixes every time you prepare a recipe that calls for vinegar, oil or butter. Really fun, isn’t it?

Imagine how fresh herbs can dress up any dish and make it spectacular-looking. Envision how you can lay individual sprigs of rosemary over your roasts, how you can garnish grilled fish with minced basil, and sprinkle chopped parsley over your potato salad. I like chopping a fresh herb and mix the green pieces in my pale salad dressing. The effect was awesome, and my salad entrƒÂ©e really turned out sparkling. With your own creativity, you can make endless combinations and delicious outcome.

In my little garden, I love growing basil, parsley, oregano, lemon balm, mint and a few others. Mint can over run your garden so growing them in individual cans to prevent the herb from “creeping” all through your garden is worthwhile. My wife makes an instant natural face mask using basil, lemon and avocados. She would pulverize a handful of basil by blending it on high, then throw in half of an avocado and a teaspoon of lemon juice. I tried the trick and there was nothing like an all-natural face mask fresh from my garden!

These are just a few ways you can use fresh herbs from your garden. There are still a lot of fun techniques of using herbs that you can learn for your own culinary style and recipes. But first, start planting your herbs.