Category: Vegetables

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Vertical Gardening: Creative Ways to Grow More in Less Space

Vertical Gardening: Creative Ways to Grow More in Less Space

Gardening is one of life’s greatest joys. But what happens when space is limited? Balconies, small backyards, and patios often feel too tight for a full garden. The good news is this: vertical gardening transforms even the smallest corner into a thriving green sanctuary. By growing upward instead of outward, you can turn bare walls, fences, and railings into lush spaces bursting with flowers, herbs, and even vegetables.

This approach is more than just a clever trick for saving room. It’s a fresh way to see your space. It opens doors to creativity, beauty, and plenty of harvests—no matter how small your square footage may be.

Why Vertical Gardening Is a Game Changer

When we picture a traditional garden, we often imagine rows of plants spread across a flat patch of soil. Vertical gardening flips that picture on its head. Instead of sprawling outward, plants climb upward. This shift brings many benefits that go far beyond saving space.

Make the Most of Every Inch

Small yards and balconies often go unused because they feel too cramped for traditional gardens. Vertical gardening turns walls, fences, and even posts into growing opportunities. Suddenly, a plain fence becomes a wall of tomatoes. A railing becomes a row of herbs. A blank side of your house becomes a flower-filled canvas.

Less Bending and Easier Care

When plants are elevated, tending them feels easier. Watering, pruning, and harvesting happen at eye level. No constant stooping. No aching knees. This makes vertical gardens ideal for anyone who wants low-impact gardening, including older adults and people with mobility challenges.

Better Airflow and Healthier Plants

Plants grown vertically enjoy improved airflow. Leaves dry faster after rain or watering, which reduces the risk of fungal diseases. Plus, sunlight reaches all sides of the plant. This results in stronger growth, fewer pests, and higher yields.

A Natural Privacy Screen

Tall vertical gardens double as living walls that block views and muffle noise. They can create a sense of seclusion on a busy street or apartment balcony. Instead of plain fencing, imagine a vibrant wall of greenery swaying gently in the breeze.

Choosing the Right Plants for Vertical Gardens

Not every plant loves growing upward, so choosing the right varieties is key. Thankfully, many common favorites adapt beautifully to vertical systems.

Herbs and Compact Edibles

Herbs like basil, parsley, oregano, and thyme are perfect for vertical planters. They stay small, thrive in containers, and offer fresh flavor just steps from your kitchen. Leafy greens—such as spinach, lettuce, and arugula—also do well in shallow soil and vertical pockets.

Climbing Vegetables and Fruits

Vining plants are natural stars of vertical gardens. Tomatoes, cucumbers, pole beans, and peas happily climb trellises or netting. Strawberries, with their cascading habit, spill beautifully from hanging towers or wall-mounted pouches.

Ornamental Flowers

Colorful flowers like nasturtiums, petunias, morning glories, and sweet peas add beauty and attract pollinators. For dramatic foliage, try ferns or trailing ivy, which soften walls and railings with cascading greenery.

Succulents for Low Watering Needs

For sunny spots, succulents are unbeatable. Varieties like hens-and-chicks or trailing sedum thrive in wall planters with minimal care. Their sculptural forms bring unique texture and color.

Creative Structures for Growing Upward

Vertical gardening thrives on creativity. You don’t need expensive materials—often, everyday objects transform into brilliant growing systems.

Trellises and Arches

Classic trellises give climbing plants a strong support. Place them along fences or as entry arches to guide vines upward. Materials range from rustic wood to lightweight metal, letting you match your garden’s style.

Hanging Planters

Baskets, mason jars, and fabric pockets suspend from railings or hooks. They create layers of plants at varying heights, adding depth and interest. Hanging planters also work indoors near sunny windows.

Pallet Gardens

Wooden shipping pallets, often free or inexpensive, easily convert into vertical planters. Attach landscape fabric to the back and sides, fill with soil, and plant herbs or flowers in the slats. They’re ideal for balconies or patios with limited ground space.

Tower Gardens

Stackable planters or garden towers grow dozens of plants in a footprint no bigger than a barrel. Some systems even include built-in watering, making them perfect for beginners.

Living Walls

For the ultimate statement, create a living wall. Modular panels or felt pockets mount directly onto fences or exterior walls. These dense plantings turn blank surfaces into lush vertical meadows.

Building Your Vertical Garden Step by Step

Starting a vertical garden doesn’t have to be overwhelming. Follow a simple process to ensure success.

Step 1: Assess Your Space

Look at walls, fences, and railings. Notice how much sun or shade each spot gets throughout the day. Full-sun plants like tomatoes need at least six hours of light. Shade-tolerant plants, like ferns or lettuce, thrive with less.

Step 2: Select the Right Structure

Choose a support that fits your style and budget. Simple trellises work for vines. Pallets or pocket planters suit herbs and compact greens. For bigger harvests, tower gardens maximize planting area.

Step 3: Prepare Soil and Containers

Use high-quality potting mix. It should be lightweight and well-draining. If repurposing containers, make sure they have drainage holes. Adding compost or slow-release fertilizer supports healthy growth.

Step 4: Plant Thoughtfully

Arrange plants so taller varieties won’t block shorter ones from sunlight. Group plants with similar water and light needs together. In mixed displays, trailing plants can soften edges while upright plants add height.

Step 5: Water and Maintain

Vertical gardens dry out faster than ground-level beds. Check moisture often, especially in summer. A drip irrigation system or self-watering planters can save time and effort. Regularly prune and harvest to encourage new growth and prevent overcrowding.

Solving Common Vertical Gardening Challenges

Even with careful planning, vertical gardening presents unique challenges. Here’s how to handle the most common issues.

Uneven Watering

Water tends to flow downward, leaving top plants dry and bottom plants soggy. Solve this by using self-watering systems or adding moisture-retaining materials like coconut coir to your soil mix.

Weight Concerns

Soil and water add significant weight to vertical planters. Always check that walls, fences, or railings can safely support your setup. Lightweight containers and soil mixes reduce strain.

Wind Exposure

Vertical gardens are often more exposed to wind, which can dry out or damage plants. Choose sturdy supports and consider wind-tolerant plants like kale, chard, or ivy.

Seasonal Changes

Outdoor vertical gardens face seasonal shifts. In colder months, protect perennials or bring containers indoors. Modular systems make it easy to move plants when temperatures drop.

Adding Beauty and Personality to Your Garden

Vertical gardens don’t just grow food or flowers. They add art and personality to your home.

  • Colorful Containers: Mix bright pots or painted pallets to create cheerful displays.
  • Pattern Planting: Alternate flower colors or leaf shapes for a striking mosaic effect.
  • Lighting: String fairy lights or lanterns through vertical gardens for magical evenings.
  • Mix Textures: Combine trailing vines with upright plants for dynamic layers.

Even a simple herb wall can become a living masterpiece when thoughtfully arranged.

The Eco-Friendly Bonus

Vertical gardens do more than save space. They help the planet too. Green walls insulate buildings, reducing heating and cooling needs. Plants filter air, absorb carbon dioxide, and invite pollinators like bees and butterflies. In cities, they soften hardscapes and reconnect us with nature.

For those who crave fresh produce, vertical gardening reduces trips to the store and cuts packaging waste. Fresh basil, picked right outside your window, tastes even better knowing it grew without pesticides or transport miles.

Inspiring Spaces to Learn From

Around the world, people transform tiny corners into lush retreats. Urban balconies overflow with strawberries in Japan. Rooftops in New York City grow cucumbers and peppers against skyline views. Even narrow alleyways in Europe burst with hanging baskets and cascading geraniums.

These spaces remind us that gardening is not limited by square footage—it’s fueled by creativity and care. When you think vertically, possibilities multiply.

Elevate Your Growing Journey

Vertical gardening turns limitations into opportunities. It lets us grow food, flowers, and beauty in spaces we once thought too small. It simplifies care, adds privacy, and even boosts the health of plants. But most of all, it sparks joy—seeing life climb toward the sun, thriving where we least expected.

Whether you start with a single hanging basket or a full living wall, every upward step opens new horizons for creativity and harvest.

Growing Upward, Living Fully

With vertical gardening, every inch matters. Walls become gardens. Fences become food sources. Balconies become havens. This shift in perspective transforms how we see our homes and ourselves. It invites us to grow, reach higher, and find abundance—even in the smallest spaces.

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Best Vegetables for Container Gardening on Patios and Balconies

Best Vegetables for Container Gardening on Patios and Balconies

Container gardening has opened the door for anyone to grow fresh vegetables—even without a backyard. A sunny patio or small balcony can transform into a productive mini farm. With the right vegetable choices and simple care, you can enjoy crisp greens, colorful peppers, and juicy tomatoes right outside your door. This guide walks you through the best vegetables for container gardening, why they thrive in small spaces, and how to make your harvest abundant.

Why Container Gardening Works So Well

Container gardening is more than just a space-saver. It’s also about control. By growing vegetables in pots, buckets, or troughs, you can manage soil quality, water levels, and sunlight with ease. This reduces pests and diseases that often come with ground planting. It’s also ideal for renters or urban dwellers who don’t have access to traditional garden plots.

Most of all, container gardening is flexible. You can move plants to chase the sun, bring them inside during a cold snap, or rearrange them to create a living green screen for privacy.

What Makes a Vegetable Perfect for Containers?

Certain traits make some vegetables thrive in containers:

  • Compact growth habit – Plants that stay small or bushy do better than sprawling types.
  • Short growing season – Vegetables that mature quickly are easier to manage in limited space.
  • High productivity per plant – The more food one plant produces, the better for container gardeners.
  • Adaptability to shallow roots – Crops that don’t need deep soil thrive in pots.

Now let’s dive into the vegetables that check all these boxes.

Leafy Greens: Fast and Fuss-Free

Lettuce

Lettuce is a classic for container gardens. It grows quickly, tolerates partial shade, and offers endless harvests if you cut outer leaves instead of pulling the whole plant. Loose-leaf varieties like ‘Black Seeded Simpson’ or ‘Buttercrunch’ work especially well.

  • Container size: 6–8 inches deep
  • Sun: 4–6 hours
  • Tip: Sow every 2–3 weeks for nonstop salads.

Spinach

Spinach thrives in cool weather and grows fast, making it a perfect spring and fall crop. It does well even in shallow containers and can be harvested baby-leaf style.

  • Container size: 6–8 inches deep
  • Sun: 4–6 hours
  • Tip: Keep soil moist to prevent bolting (flowering too soon).

Kale

Kale’s sturdy leaves hold up well to container life and can be picked for months. Compact types like ‘Dwarf Blue Curled’ are ideal for tight spaces.

  • Container size: 8–10 inches deep
  • Sun: 6+ hours
  • Tip: Harvest outer leaves often to encourage new growth.

Compact Fruiting Vegetables

Cherry Tomatoes

Tomatoes are container favorites, and cherry types are the most forgiving. They ripen quickly, produce heavily, and don’t sprawl as much as big slicers. Look for dwarf or patio varieties like ‘Tiny Tim’ or ‘Tumbling Tom.’

  • Container size: 12–16 inches deep (5+ gallons)
  • Sun: 6–8 hours
  • Tip: Stake or cage early to support heavy fruit clusters.

Peppers (Sweet and Hot)

Peppers love the heat and stay compact, making them excellent for pots. Bell peppers, jalapeños, and even ornamental chilies do well in containers with full sun and rich soil.

  • Container size: 10–12 inches deep (3+ gallons)
  • Sun: 6–8 hours
  • Tip: Use a lightweight potting mix and water consistently to prevent blossom end rot.

Bush Beans

Bush beans don’t climb, so they fit nicely in small planters. They mature quickly and provide multiple harvests throughout summer.

  • Container size: 8–10 inches deep
  • Sun: 6–8 hours
  • Tip: Plant in batches for a steady supply of beans.

Root Vegetables for Deep Containers

Radishes

Radishes grow in just 3–4 weeks, making them perfect for impatient gardeners. They don’t need deep soil and are a great starter crop for beginners.

  • Container size: 6–8 inches deep
  • Sun: 4–6 hours
  • Tip: Keep soil loose so roots form evenly.

Carrots

Carrots thrive in containers, especially short or round types like ‘Parisian Market’ or ‘Little Finger.’ These varieties are bred for shallow soils.

  • Container size: 10–12 inches deep
  • Sun: 6–8 hours
  • Tip: Thin seedlings early for proper root development.

Beets

Beets give you both edible roots and leafy greens. They do well in deep containers and are tolerant of cooler weather.

  • Container size: 10–12 inches deep
  • Sun: 6+ hours
  • Tip: Harvest young greens as you thin seedlings for tender leaves.

Herbs: The Perfect Companion

Though not technically vegetables, herbs pair beautifully with container veggies. Basil boosts tomato flavor, mint repels pests, and parsley thrives in partial shade. Mix herbs into your vegetable pots or give them their own containers.

  • Best herbs for containers: Basil, chives, cilantro, parsley, thyme, mint
  • Container size: 6–8 inches deep for most herbs
  • Tip: Pinch flowers to keep plants producing leaves longer.

Choosing the Right Containers

The container is just as important as the vegetable. Here’s what to look for:

  • Depth: Match pot depth to root needs. Leafy greens need 6–8 inches; tomatoes need 12–16 inches.
  • Drainage: Holes at the bottom are non-negotiable to prevent root rot.
  • Material: Plastic retains moisture, terracotta breathes, and fabric pots encourage strong roots.
  • Size: Bigger is better—more soil means fewer waterings and stronger plants.

Repurposed containers like buckets, crates, or old tubs also work well, as long as they drain properly.

Soil and Fertilizer Basics

Container veggies need light, airy soil—not heavy garden dirt. Use high-quality potting mix with added compost or slow-release fertilizer. During the growing season, supplement with liquid feed every 2–3 weeks, especially for heavy feeders like tomatoes and peppers.

  • Tip: Mix perlite or vermiculite into the soil to boost drainage and aeration.

Watering Made Simple

Containers dry out faster than garden beds. A consistent watering routine is key:

  • Check daily: Stick your finger in the soil—if dry 1 inch down, water deeply.
  • Morning watering: Best time to reduce evaporation and prevent fungal issues.
  • Self-watering pots: Great for balconies where you may forget to water.

Mulching with straw or shredded leaves also helps keep soil moist and cool.

Arranging Your Patio Garden

Think vertically. Use plant stands, shelves, or railing planters to maximize space. Group sun-loving plants together and keep shade-tolerant greens lower. Trailing plants like cherry tomatoes or strawberries look stunning cascading over the edges of hanging baskets.

Companion planting works beautifully in containers too. Pair basil with tomatoes, or tuck radishes around peppers to fill empty soil space.

Seasonal Planting Tips

  • Spring: Focus on greens, radishes, and peas.
  • Summer: Switch to heat lovers like tomatoes, peppers, and bush beans.
  • Fall: Bring back kale, spinach, and carrots for cooler weather harvests.
  • Winter (mild climates or indoors): Grow lettuce, herbs, and microgreens under grow lights or in sunny windows.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

  • Yellow leaves? Often a sign of overwatering or nutrient deficiency.
  • Wilting in heat? Provide afternoon shade or water more frequently.
  • Few fruits? Pollinate flowers manually with a small brush or shake the plant gently.
  • Pests like aphids? Spray with soapy water or introduce ladybugs.

Creating a Mini Oasis

Container gardening on patios and balconies is more than food—it’s an experience. You’ll notice bees visiting, the joy of plucking a tomato warm from the sun, and the scent of basil drifting in the air. These small gardens turn overlooked spaces into thriving retreats.

Harvest Abundance in Small Spaces

You don’t need acres to grow fresh vegetables. A few well-chosen plants, good soil, and thoughtful care can fill your kitchen with homegrown flavors all season long. Whether you’re growing crunchy carrots in a bucket or lush lettuce on a windowsill, container gardening proves that abundance can happen anywhere—even on a balcony high above the street.

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Native American Gardening: The Three Sisters

corn

Why the Three Sisters Still Matter

The Three Sisters are corn, beans, and squash. They grow together. They support each other. They feed us well. This is an old method from many Native nations. It is simple. It is strong. It still works today.

We can learn a lot from it. We learn how plants can be friends. We learn how soil can stay rich. We learn how to work with nature, not against it. In other words, this is more than a way to plant. It is a way to care.

When we plant the Sisters, we join a living story. We honor the people who kept that story alive. We also make our own garden better. Let’s walk through it step by step. We will plan. We will plant. We will tend. We will harvest. And we will eat well, together.

The Wisdom in the Three

Each Sister has a job. Each job matters.

  • Corn stands tall. It acts like a pole. It lifts the beans up to the sun.
  • Beans climb the corn. Their roots fix nitrogen. That is plant food. It feeds the whole bed.
  • Squash sprawls wide. Its big leaves shade the soil. That keeps water in. It blocks weeds. It protects the roots.

Together, they do even more. The mix slows pests. It invites many helpful insects. It softens wind. It breaks hard rain. It keeps soil covered, instead of bare. In other words, they build a living shield.

The Sisters also make a strong meal. Corn gives complex carbs. Beans add protein. Squash brings vitamins and fiber. When we eat them together, we get balance. We get energy that lasts.

Honoring Roots and Respect

This method comes from Native peoples across many regions. The names, stories, and steps can change from place to place. But the core idea stays the same. Grow plants as a family. Let each plant help the others.

We show respect by learning with care. We name the source. We avoid acting like we invented it. We give thanks. Most of all, we try to garden in a way that protects life. The sisters are about care. The sisters are about sharing. We can live that message in our own yard.

Planning Your Three Sisters Bed

Good planning makes a smooth season. Here is how we set up the space so the Sisters can do their best.

Find Sun and Shelter

Pick a spot with full sun. Aim for 6 to 8 hours a day. If wind is strong where you live, add a windbreak on the west or north side. A fence, a row of sunflowers, or a hedge can do the job. This helps the corn stay upright.

Choose the Size

You can start small or go big.

  • Small bed: one or two mounds with 4–6 corn plants each.
  • Medium bed: four to six mounds set in a grid.
  • Large bed: several short rows of mounds, with a path in between for care and harvest.

A mound is a raised circle of soil. It warms fast. It drains well. It also keeps roots from sitting in water.

Prepare the Soil

Add a lot of compost. Mix it into the top 6–8 inches. If soil is heavy clay, add coarse sand and compost. If soil is very light, add compost and some aged manure. We want soil that holds water but still drains. We want a crumbly feel. A pH around neutral is fine.

Do not overdo the nitrogen before planting. Too much nitrogen makes the corn tall and leafy but weak. The beans will add nitrogen later, in a steady way.

Plan the Layout

The classic layout uses mounds. Here is a simple plan:

  • Make mounds 24–36 inches wide.
  • Space mounds 3–4 feet apart.
  • Place pathways so you can reach each mound from all sides.

In each mound, corn goes in the center. Beans go around the corn, but not too close. Squash goes at the edges of the mound. The vines will run between mounds and fill the paths. Instead of wasting space, we create shade for the soil.

Choosing Your Sisters

Variety choice matters. Some types fit better than others.

Corn

Pick a tall, sturdy corn. Many gardeners use flint, flour, or dent types for dry grain. You can also grow sweet corn if you will pick it fresh. The key is strength. Ears should not be too heavy for the stalk. If wind is common, avoid the very tallest types and plant in blocks.

Beans

Choose pole beans, not bush beans. Pole beans climb the corn and keep producing all season. You can pick snap beans to eat fresh. Or you can grow dry beans for storage. Some heirloom beans are bred to climb corn well. They wrap gently and do not choke the stalk.

Squash

Select a vining squash, not a bush type. Winter squash run long and shade the soil. Pumpkins, acorn, Hubbard, and other vining types do well. You can also use vining summer squash if space is tight. But winter squash store better, so they fit the “grow and keep” goal.

Regional Friends

In some places, gardeners add a “fourth sister,” like sunflower or bee balm. Sunflower can act as a windbreak. Bee balm draws pollinators. In drier regions, some people plant amaranth with the Sisters. These choices depend on climate and tradition. Use what suits your place.

When and How to Plant

Timing matters. The order matters. Plant in stages so the corn can lead and the beans can follow.

Step 1: Shape the Mounds

After the last frost, shape your mounds. Add compost. Water them well and let them settle for a few days. This gives a firm base for seeds.

Step 2: Plant the Corn

Plant 4–6 corn seeds in each mound, in a small circle. Set the seeds about 1 inch deep. Space them 6–8 inches apart. Water gently. When the seedlings are 2–3 inches tall, thin to the strongest 3–4 plants per mound. Do not pull the extras; cut them at the base so you do not disturb roots.

Step 3: Wait for Corn to Lead

Let the corn grow to 6 inches tall. This is key. If beans go in too soon, they can pull the corn down. We want the corn to get a head start. In other words, patience now will save trouble later.

Step 4: Plant the Beans

When the corn is 6 inches tall, plant 4–6 bean seeds around the corn, about 6 inches away from the stalks. Place the seeds evenly in a circle. Plant 1 inch deep. Water well. As the vines rise, guide them toward the corn with your fingers. They will find the stalks and climb.

Step 5: Plant the Squash

Plant squash at the outer rim of each mound, two to three seeds per spot, on two sides of the mound. Space these spots so vines can run between mounds. Plant seeds 1 inch deep. Thin to one strong plant per spot when true leaves appear.

Spacing at a Glance

  • Mounds: 3–4 feet apart
  • Corn per mound: 3–4 plants
  • Bean seeds: 4–6 per mound, 6 inches from corn
  • Squash plants: 1–2 per mound, at the outer edge

Water, Mulch, and Care

Watering

Keep soil evenly moist. Corn needs steady water as it rises and as ears fill. Beans need moisture to set pods. Squash needs water to keep big leaves strong. Water at the base. Avoid soaking leaves. Deep, slow watering is better than quick, light sprays.

Mulching

Mulch helps a lot. After the soil warms, lay straw, leaves, or grass clippings around the mounds. Keep mulch a few inches away from the corn stems. Mulch keeps the soil cool and moist. It also feeds the soil as it breaks down. Instead of bare earth, we keep a living blanket on the ground.

Feeding

If your soil was poor at the start, side-dress with compost when the corn is knee-high. You can also use a light fish or seaweed tea every few weeks. Go easy. Beans add nitrogen. Too much extra food can make the corn tall but weak.

Weeding

Weeds will try to move in early. Hand-weed while plants are small. Once squash fills the gaps, weeds fade. The shade does the work for you.

Pollination and Wind

Corn is wind-pollinated. That is why we plant in blocks or grouped mounds, not in one long line. When tassels open, a soft breeze will drop pollen onto the silks. If you get poor pollination, tap the stalks at midday to shake loose pollen.

Strong winds can lodge (bend) corn. Plant in a place with some shelter. A short fence or a line of sunflowers can help. If a stalk leans after a storm, press soil against the base to brace it.

Pests and Simple Fixes

Corn Earworm

Pinch or clip a tiny bit off the silk tips after pollination. You can also slip on a paper bag to shield the tip. Harvest at the right time and cook soon.

Bean Beetles

Check leaves often. Hand-pick beetles and scrape off yellow egg clusters. Encourage lady beetles and other helpers by keeping flowers nearby.

Squash Vine Borer

Use row cover early, and remove it when flowers open. Check stems for sawdust-like frass. If you see it, slit the stem gently, remove the borer, and mound soil over the wound to help the plant root again.

Powdery Mildew on Squash

Good airflow helps. Water at the base, not on leaves. Remove the worst leaves to slow spread. Plant resistant varieties when you can.

Troubleshooting the Mix

  • Corn falls over: The bean vines may be too heavy or the soil too loose. Thin bean vines, hill soil at the corn base, and add a windbreak next time.
  • Beans do not climb: Guide them by hand. If corn stalks are very smooth, a rough string between stalks can give a grip.
  • Squash smothers beans: Use fewer squash plants and train vines down the paths. You can also tuck leaves back to free bean pods.
  • Poor corn ears: This may be drought or weak pollination. Water more during tasseling. Plant in blocks so pollen spreads well next time.
  • Slow growth: Soil may be cold. Wait for warmer days before planting next season. In cool areas, black mulch can warm the soil early.

Harvest and Storage

Corn

For sweet corn, pick when silks are brown and dry and kernels press to milky juice. Cook soon after picking. For dry corn, wait until husks turn papery and ears are hard. Dry the ears in a warm, airy place. Shell and store in jars.

Beans

Pick snap beans when pods are long and crisp. Keep picking to keep vines producing. For dry beans, wait until pods turn tan and rattle. Harvest when dry weather is set. Shell and store in a cool, dry place.

Squash

Harvest winter squash when the rind is hard and the stem is dry on the plant. Leave a short stem on each fruit. Cure in a warm, dry spot for 10–14 days. Then store in a cool room with airflow. Many winter squash keep for months.

Cooking with the Sisters

The Sisters make many good meals. We can cook simply and eat well.

  • Succotash: sweet corn, beans, and squash in a single pot. Add onions, herbs, and a bit of butter or oil.
  • Skillet hash: corn off the cob, sliced summer squash, and snap beans sautéed until tender.
  • Roasted winter squash: serve with a pot of beans and fresh corn bread.
  • Stew: dry beans, diced winter squash, and cornmeal dumplings for a warm bowl.

The flavors are simple and rich. The meals are filling. After more than a few tries, you will learn your own favorite way.

Seed Saving Basics

Saving seed keeps the story going.

  • Corn: Space different corn types far apart to avoid cross-pollination. Pick ears from the best plants. Dry well. Store in a sealed jar.
  • Beans: These are easy to save. Let pods dry on the plant. Shell and store.
  • Squash: Save seeds from a fully ripe fruit. Rinse and dry the seeds on a plate. Note that squash can cross with other squash in the same species. If you want pure seed, grow one type at a time or hand-pollinate and bag the flowers.

Label your jars with the variety and the year. Test germination next spring by sprouting a few seeds on a damp paper towel.

Small Spaces and Creative Twists

You do not need a huge yard. We can adapt.

  • Teepee tripod: plant three to four corn stalks as a small cluster. Add beans around them. Plant a single squash at the base.
  • Raised beds: keep the classic mound idea, but inside a tidy frame. Train squash to run down the aisle.
  • Containers: use a deep tub for corn and beans and a second tub for a compact vining squash. Water more often.
  • Fence edge: plant a short block of corn near a sunny fence. Use the fence to guide beans if wind is strong.

Instead of saying “I can’t,” try a small patch. Even one mound teaches a lot.

Climate Tips

Cool, Short Seasons

Start corn indoors in paper pots 2–3 weeks before last frost. Transplant gently to avoid root shock. Use early corn and fast pole beans. Black mulch can warm the soil. Pick a smaller, faster vining squash.

Hot, Dry Regions

Plant a bit deeper to reach moisture. Mulch thick. Consider a drought-tough corn and beans known to thrive in heat. Use a squash with thick leaves and strong vines. A light shade cloth over young plants can help during a heat wave.

Humid Areas

Give more space between mounds for airflow. Thin vines to prevent mildew. Water early in the day. Choose disease-resistant types when you can.

Soil Health for the Long Run

The Sisters keep soil covered and fed. But we can do more.

  • Add compost every year.
  • Grow a cover crop in fall, like clover or rye, and cut it in spring.
  • Avoid heavy tilling. Too much till breaks soil life.
  • Keep living roots in the ground as long as you can.

In other words, treat soil like a living thing. Feed it. Protect it. It will take care of you.

Teaching and Community

The Sisters make a great school. Kids can see how plants help each other. They learn patience. They learn to share space. They taste food they grew. That is a powerful lesson.

Community gardens can use the Sisters to fill a bed with food and beauty. The vines spill over the paths. The corn tassels shine in late light. The bean flowers bring bees. It is a joyful mix. It invites people to stop and ask, “What is growing here?” Then the story begins.

Cleaning Up After Harvest

When the season ends, we still have work to do.

  • Cut the corn stalks at the soil line. Leave the roots to rot and feed the soil.
  • Chop the vines and leave them as mulch, unless pests were heavy. If pests were heavy, compost in a hot pile or bag and remove.
  • Spread a layer of compost and a fall mulch.
  • Sow a cover crop if the season allows.

This sets the bed up for next year. After more than one season, you will feel the soil get richer under your hands.

A Yearly Planting Calendar (Simple Guide)

Dates vary by place, but this rough guide helps.

  • Early spring: add compost and shape mounds.
  • Late spring (after frost): plant corn.
  • 2–3 weeks later: plant beans when corn is 6 inches tall.
  • Same week as beans: plant squash at mound edges.
  • Early summer: mulch and weed.
  • Mid to late summer: harvest snap beans and sweet corn; keep watering.
  • Late summer to fall: harvest dry beans and winter squash; cure squash.
  • Fall: clean up, add compost, and sow a cover crop.

Why This Method Endures

The Three Sisters last because they work. They match plant needs with plant gifts. They give us good food and strong soil. They turn a bed into a small community. We learn to see links, not parts. We learn to watch and adjust. We learn to share the work with the plants themselves.

Instead of pushing nature, we cooperate. Instead of blank rows, we make a living weave. But most of all, we join a tradition of care and respect. That matters in the garden. It also matters beyond the garden.

Your First Planting Plan (Action Steps)

Let’s turn this into action. Here is a quick plan you can follow.

  1. Pick a sunny spot with some wind protection.
  2. Build 2–4 mounds, 24–36 inches across, 3–4 feet apart.
  3. Mix in compost. Water and settle the mounds.
  4. Plant 4–6 corn seeds per mound. Thin to 3–4 strong plants.
  5. When corn is 6 inches tall, plant 4–6 pole bean seeds around each mound, 6 inches from the corn.
  6. Plant 1–2 vining squash plants at the outer edge of each mound.
  7. Mulch once the soil warms. Water deeply each week.
  8. Guide bean vines onto corn by hand.
  9. Side-dress with compost when corn is knee-high.
  10. Harvest in stages: snap beans first, sweet corn next, then dry beans and winter squash.
  11. Cure squash, shell dry beans, and store.
  12. Save some seed for next year if you can.

In other words, start small. Learn. Adjust. Grow with the Sisters.

Common Questions You May Think About (Answered in Practice)

  • Do I need fertilizer? Compost plus the beans’ nitrogen is often enough. If leaves look pale, add a light, natural feed.
  • Can I plant all three at once? Wait for corn to lead. Staging is key to balance.
  • What if I only have room for two? Try corn and beans as a pair, and mulch well. Or beans and squash if you have a sturdy trellis.
  • Can I grow sweet corn and dry beans together? Yes. Just time harvests and pick your types with care.

These answers come from practice. Your garden will teach you more.

Caring Hands, Living Story

We plant the Three Sisters with respect and hope. We use simple tools. We watch the weather. We listen to the plants. We keep learning.

This is old wisdom, but it feels fresh in our hands. It makes healthy food. It brings life to the soil. It invites birds, bees, and neighbors. It even slows us down in a good way.

So let us begin. One mound is enough to start. Soon, the corn will rise. The beans will climb. The squash will run. And we will stand in the middle of it all, smiling, because we are part of the story.

Hands in Soil, Stories Alive

Native American Gardening: The Three Sisters
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Plant Seeds: Pollination to Germination

mixture of seeds

Seeds are one of the most important parts of a plant. Not only do they allow plants to reproduce, but they also contain the embryo that will grow into a new plant. Seeds are formed as part of the process of reproduction in seed plants, which includes both gymnosperms and angiosperms. In this blog post, we’ll take a closer look at how seeds are formed, and what goes into making them such an integral part of the plant reproductive process.

When a seed plant is pollinated, the pollen grain germinates and produces a tube that grows down into the ovule. At the tip of this tube, the nucleus of the pollen grain – which contains the male gametes – enters the embryo sac. One of these gametes fertilizes the egg cell in the embryo sac, forming a zygote. The zygote then begins to divide, and the resulting cells begin to grow and differentiate.

mixture of seeds
mixture of seeds

As the embryo grows, it starts to accumulate food reserves. These reserves are stored in the cotyledons, which are thickened leaves that form part of the seed coat. The seed coat itself develops from the integuments of the ovule, and serves to protect the embryo from damage. Once the seed coat is fully formed, the seed is complete.

Seeds play a vital role in plant reproduction, and are essential for ensuring that new plants can grow and thrive. By understanding how they are formed, we can better appreciate the important role that they play in the life cycle of plants.

Seed Dormancy

Seeds can remain dormant – or inactive – for long periods of time. Dormancy is a survival mechanism that helps seeds to survive unfavorable conditions, such as drought or cold temperatures. Once the conditions become favorable again, the seed will germinate and start to grow.

Dormancy can be broken by a number of different methods, including exposure to light, temperature changes, or chemicals. By understanding dormancy, we can better control the germination of seeds, and ensure that they grow when and where we want them to.

Seed Dispersal

Seeds need to be dispersed in order to find suitable conditions for germination. Dispersal can be achieved by a number of different means, including wind, water, animals, and humans.

Wind dispersal is the most common form of seed dispersal. Seeds are carried away by the wind to other locations, where they may find suitable conditions for germination. Water dispersal is another common method, and involves seeds being carried away by water to other areas.

Animals and humans can also play a role in seed dispersal. Animals may eat fruits or seeds and then defecate them in other locations, while humans may deliberately or accidentally transport seeds to new areas.

Seed dispersal is essential for the survival of plants, and helps to ensure that new plants can germinate and grow in suitable areas. By understanding how it works, we can better appreciate the role that dispersal plays in the life cycle of plants.

Seed germination

Seed germination is the process by which a seed starts to grow into a new plant. It involves the growth of the embryo, and the development of the root system and the shoot system. The first step in germination is the activation of the seed, which is usually caused by water. Once the seed is activated, it begins to take in water and nutrients from the surrounding soil.

The embryo then starts to grow, and the root system develops first. The root system anchors the plant in the soil and absorbs water and nutrients from the ground. The shoot system then develops, and the plant begins to grow taller. Once the seedlings have reached a certain size, they become self-sufficient and can start to produce their own food.

Germination is an important step in the life cycle of plants, and is necessary for ensuring that new plants can be grown. By understanding how it works, we can better appreciate the process by which plants come into existence.

Seed dormancy, germination, and dispersal are all essential steps in the life cycle of plants. By understanding how they work, we can better appreciate the role that seeds play in the reproduction of plants.

Basic Seed Starting Steps

There are a few basic steps you need to take in order to start seeds:

1. Choose the right container: You’ll need something that has drainage holes in the bottom, and is big enough to fit all of the soil and seeds you’ll be planting.

2. Choose the right soil: Use a quality potting mix that will allow your seeds to germinate and grow properly.

3. Plant your seeds: Follow the specific instructions on the seed packet for how deep to plant your seeds and how far apart to space them.

4. Water your plants: Seeds need water in order to germinate, so make sure to keep the soil moist but not soggy.

5. Monitor your plants: Keep an eye on your plants and make sure they’re getting enough light, water, and nutrients.

With a little care and attention, you can successfully start your own seeds at home! Follow these tips and you’ll be well on your way to growing your own plants from seed.

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Outdoor Planter Boxes for Highlighting The Landscape

Outdoor planter boxes can be used for highlighting a landscape, garden, patio, balcony and the inside of your home. Outdoor planter boxes are generally used in a container garden to grow flowers, vegetables, or herbs. Most of these containers are constructed of weather resistant materials that will withstand the outdoor elements.

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Wood outdoor garden boxes that hold up to outdoor conditions are mostly made of redwood, cedar, or teak. You can find them in different shapes and sizes and can be used almost anywhere particularly a rustic outdoor setting. Many raised beds are constructed of these in the natural state or they can be painted to match any area of your garden. Raised beds are convenient for gardeners with knee or back problems and they are excellent for drainage.

PVC is a very durable material used in the construction of planter boxes. They sometimes give the appearance of beautiful wood or clay and you cannot tell the difference until pick one up and realize it is PVC. They are inexpensive lightweight containers that will last through many seasons of harsh weather and they do not need very much care. Some of these containers are so beautiful and self-watering they can be used on a front porch or door step to enhance the landscape in front of your house. Clay planter boxes are good for your plants health but the soil will dry out much quicker than other planters. They can be very heavy and are fragile so are best if used in a location where you do not have to move them around. They are also available in various sizes, shapes, and styles; you may even find some to match some of your outdoor yard decorations.

Some outdoor planter boxes are constructed of metal and are quite common. Some have decorative feet to lift them off the ground for drainage. Some may come with an inner lining or you can use a plastic liner for protection. You can find many window-boxes that are constructed of metal and are self-watering. Hanging planters are also classified as planter boxes for planting flowers that drape or hang over the side. Hanging planters can be hung from house eaves or patio covers and are available as self-watering.

Almost anything can be used as a planter box for growing vegetables, herbs, or flowers. You just need to find one large enough to handle the root system of what you intend to plant such as plastic milk containers, bushel baskets, large pressed fiber pots or even an old wheel barrow. If you want to plant tomatoes the container should be very deep but to plant radishes you only need about a 6-inch deep container. The larger the container and the more soil used will give the roots more room to spread and less watering on the gardeners’ part.

Be sure the containers you use have ample holes for drainage; they can be on the bottom or on the sides. The excess water needs to drain out so the roots do not get waterlogged. Most large containers have the holes on the bottom so elevating them on blocks or bricks will give the water a place to go. The larger the container the more drainage holes it will need. A well-aerated soil will not need any stones in the bottom because you want as much room as possible for the roots of the plant.

You need to check your containers a couple times a day, especially during the hotter days of summer, for moisture if you do not have self-watering planters or are not using a drip watering system. Your large containers can use a layer of mulch to help retain some of the moisture. You need to use outside water that has not been through a water softener; the salts used in a softener can be toxic to your plants. Collected rainwater is the best and cheapest water that can be used for your outdoor planter boxes.

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Asian Vegetables You Can Grow in Your Organic Garden

As oriental dishes are becoming more popular in America, so are the vegetables used in those dishes. You can grow these unusual Asian vegetables in your own organic garden.

Mizuna: Also know as Japanese Greens, Japanese Mustard, Spider Mustard and many more.

Mizuna is a compact green plant with fringed, dark green leaves that can be used cooked or fresh. This plant has been described to be slightly spicy and have mild peppery flavor. One can use the leaves in a fresh salad, cooked in a stir fry, steamed, or even boiled. Add them to a clear soup to add color and texture.

The best time to sow seeds is in early spring. You will want to grow this plant like spinach. Space the plants about 6 inches apart. This plant is good for successive plantings. You can harvest the entire plant, or just some of the leaves.

Shungiku: Also known as Chrysanthemum, Tong Hao in Chinese, Ssukgat in Korean, and Kikuna in Japanese.

Shungiku is a beautiful plant that has single yellow flower which are edible, but it is mostly known for the leafy green leaves. Both the leaves and the flowers can be enjoyed in a fresh salad either alone or with other Asian vegetables. You may use the leaves in stir fry, casseroles, soups or many other hot dishes although it is recommended that you wait to the last minute to add the Shungiku leaves. These leaves cook quickly and are known to loose their structure.

Sow seeds in early to mid spring and early fall. This vegetable will not do well during summer conditions causing it to go into premature flowering. You may harvest individual leaves or the entire plant. Thin the plants as needed while enjoying the thinned plants in your favorite dishes.

Daikon: Also known as Chinese Radish, Aukobi-Daikon, or Asian Radish.

Daikon is a torpedo shaped radish that comes in many colors but most commonly white. Larger breeds can get up to 2 ft long and 3 in wide. The root (radish part) is mildly spicy and adds flavor to salads, sauces, and stir fries. In Korea, the daikon is traditionally made into a diced sweet pickle. You can steam the peppery leaves or add them to a soup.

Sows seeds during the spring for a summer harvest, and fall for a winter harvest. When purchasing your seeds, select the variety for the season you are planning on planting. Plants should be spread 6 inches apart. They take about 60 days until harvest. Carefully dig up the entire plant.

Growing unusual Asian vegetables in your own organic garden is fun and exciting. If you decide to grow these or any other Asian vegetables, you better get your Asian cookbook out and get ready to make some delicious meals!

Vegetable Gardening in Small Spaces

Do not let the lack of space be a reason or an excuse to not have a vegetable garden at your home. Thousands of people are in the same situation as you and that is the space they have available to grow fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs from seeds is very limited.

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Maybe you live in a big city and land available is scarce, or you reside in a condominium or apartment and the only thing available to you is a patio. Either way, there are some great solutions to help you through this. You can be growing your own fresh veggies in no time.

I recently spoke with Tracy Godsey who runs the small container blog Eden’s Container. Tracy started her small space vegetable gardening adventures when growing fruits, vegetables and herbs in containers is all she could do with her limited apartment space, which consisted mainly of a balcony.

“I currently grow herbs on my patio including basil, parsley oregano, thyme, mint and chives. The basil and parsley are the only plants that won’t overwinter in my containers outdoors.”, says Tracy. “In a vegetable garden, full-sized plants can grow in any pot that holds 3-5 gallons of soil. Large plants like tomatoes need 5 gallons, while plants with shallow roots like lettuce can get by in a 3 gallon pot. Even smaller plants like radishes can grow well in trays and produce a harvest very quickly. If you don’t have a container handy, you can make one by filling a plastic tube (such as a garbage bag or bread wrapper) with potting soil. These types of tubes are known as grow bags.”

Tracy reminded me of a very important factor that I had not thought about and that was the weight of what you are growing. If you are on a second floor balcony where weight will be an issue, Tracy recommends, selecting smaller heirloom varieties and grow them in hanging baskets.

Just because you are limited on space does not mean you are limited on what you can grow. Remember to select fruits, vegetables and herbs that you and your family will consume. Since space is a premium you do not want to waste any with items that will get discarded. Be careful not to over water your items in containers and make sure your containers have adequate drainage holes. To protect from the loss of dirt through those drainage holes use coffee filters at the bottom or paper towels. Both options allow water to pass through but not dirt.

On a final note, “never put ordinary dirt in containers, only potting soil,” says Tracy. “You will have much better success since the soil is already formulated for growing plants in pots.”

Now it’s your turn to roll your sleeves up, get some containers, fill them with potting soil and plant the seeds of your favorite fruits, veggies and herbs. Don’t let space, or in this case, the lack thereof, prohibit you from eating fresh from the garden.

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Growing Tomato Plants

tomato-tiny-tim

Tomatoes from the grocery store shelves taste like-NOTHING! Why? Most of the tomatoes purchased from grocery stores have been harvested days before they reach the grocery, treated to turn red, and bred to stay firm and not bruise on the shelves. Plant breeding for the last fifty years has concentrated on producing a tomato that can survive anything-except for a taste test.

Growing Tomatoes – Heirloom Vs Hybrid Varieties

Gardeners and tomato aficionados alike have given up on the produce aisle for anything other than garnish. Instead, they turn to seed and plant catalogues to find tasty varieties to grow. When viewing a plant catalogue of tomato seed sources, you will be confronted with hundreds of varieties. Huge and tiny, purple, red, yellow and orange tomatoes. Perfectly round, almost flat, and lemon-shaped tomatoes. Seed catalogues highlight another variable to understand regarding tomato growing: heirloom versus hybrid tomatoes.

Heirloom Tomatoes

Tasty and unique, heirloom varieties are endless. This category of plant is where you will find purple, orange and yellow tomatoes sharing catalogue space with red ones. Heirloom varieties are “open pollinated” plants, which means that if you harvest seeds from a plant, prepare them, save them, and plant them next year, you will grow the same plant. Heirloom varieties were developed over time, in isolated gardens and communities, thus developing unique characteristics.

Heirlooms require particular growing conditions, and each variety is different. The key to success with heirlooms is choosing a variety that is well suited to your growing conditions. Because heirloom tomatoes have not been bred for generations to promote vigor and disease resistance, these varieties need a little bit of extra care. They are, however, worth the extra work. Heirlooms will produce lush, flavorful tomatoes of every shape, size and hue, for every culinary taste or need.

Hybrid Tomatoes

These tomatoes are the result of two different tomato varieties being “crossed” or joined, and the seeds harvested from the resulting plants. Hybrid tomato seeds will produce the tomato with hybrid characteristics for only one plant generation. If you harvest your tomatoes from the hybrid plant and plant those seeds next year, you will not have the same plant.

Hybrid tomatoes have been bred for disease resistance, uniformity, and ability to withstand mechanical harvesting, packing and shipping. Little time has been spent in enhancing flavor in hybrid tomatoes. Much like hybrid tea roses, hybrid tomatoes may be nice to look at, but they have few other desirable attributes.

For large-scale commercial tomato growers, hybrid tomatoes are a great help. For consumers expecting bright red tomatoes in the middle of winter, hybrids are a way to consume. For home gardeners, Heirloom varieties produce yields as large, and much more flavorful. Home gardeners have enough time an attention to successfully grow heirloom tomatoes and bring out their best qualities.

Choosing the Right Variety

Whether Heirlooms or Hybrids are your tomato of choice, you much choose tomato varieties that are well suited to your growing environment. Climates with high heat and humidity will help certain varieties flourish, while colder climates with shorter growing seasons require cultivation of plants that set fruit and mature faster.

What is the difference between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes?

When it comes to determinate and indeterminate tomatoes, the main difference is in how they grow. Determinate tomatoes are bred to grow a certain way and ripen all at once. They are mostly used for canning or sauces. Indeterminate tomatoes are bred to vine and grow continuously, so they are better for fresh eating.

Determinate tomatoes generally grow to be about two to four feet tall and have a compact, bushy growth habit. The fruit ripens all at once on these plants, making them ideal for canning or other recipes where you need a lot of ripe tomatoes all at once. Indeterminate tomatoes, on the other hand, can grow much larger, up to six feet or more. They have a vine-type growth habit and produce fruit throughout the season. Because of this, they are better suited for fresh eating.

When it comes to taste, there is no difference between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes. Both types can produce delicious fruits that are perfect for eating fresh or using in recipes. The only real difference is in how they are grown and how the fruit ripens. So, if you¢â‚¬â„¢re looking for a tomato plant that will produce a lot of fruit all at once, go with a determinate variety. If you want a plant that will keep producing fruit throughout the season, choose an indeterminate variety.

Container Gardening Ideas For Your Home

Many gardeners have given up on the idea of a garden because they lack space, time or lots of experience. But if growing plants is an interest of yours container gardening could be your answer. Container gardens will allow you to enjoy “playing in the dirt” without investing a lot of time or money. You can get very creative in container gardening using vegetables, decorative grasses or flowers and herbs. You can plant a container garden with any plant that would grow outside. The trick is to come up with some creative ideas for your container garden.

You should do some research at your local nursery or on the internet to choose the plants you wish to grow to help you come up with some ideas. Try to use plants that complement each other and have the same basic needs for water, air and light.

A container garden idea that has taken off recently is the landscape container. Some people plant a simple evergreen tree in a container with good drainage to place at their front door. Or you could plant an assortment of flowers for a bright and beautiful vista. If you do plant flowers, add plants that spill over the sides of the container to add more visuals and interest. What ever container gardening idea you can come up with can be placed on a deck, patio, and balcony or by the front doors. Put them somewhere that your family and friends can enjoy.

You can grow vegetables in containers but choose wisely. Vegetables like squash and pole beans need lots of space, while tomatoes need a deep pot. When you grow your own vegetables you will have tasty produce not the bland stuff that is in the grocery store. Nothing tastes better than a tomato right off the vine. There are many chefs and good home cooks that grow their own for just this reason. Don’t forget to pot some herbs, they are pretty plants and add zest to your meals.

But don’t just stick to vegetables and herbs; why not add fruit trees too? Instead of using an evergreen tree, pot a fruit tree instead. There are many dwarf varieties available that work best in pots since with pots there is less soil therefore less nutrients to draw from. If you live in a year round warm climate citrus trees are perfect. In other regions, stick to pear, apple and cherry trees. Another good container gardening idea is to grow strawberries. With strawberries climate does not matter since you can bring the container inside. Fresh strawberries are amazingly sweet and delicious. Imagine how good a bowl of fresh strawberries will be, strawberries that you have just picked.

Remember that container gardens dry out more quickly than traditional gardens. Be diligent about watering your plants if you don’t want your container gardening ideas to wither and die. Container gardens must be fertilized too. Keep a small notebook handy so you can write down the needs of your plant so you will always know when to water or feed. Keep an eye out for pests. If you find a container that has an infestation, isolate it immediately and treat it with a natural pesticide. You don’t want harsh chemicals on fruits, vegetables or herbs. A good natural pesticide recipe is:

In a jar, combine 1 teaspoon dishwashing liquid and 1 cup vegetable oil. Shake vigorously. In an empty spray bottle, combine 2 teaspoons of this mixture and 1 cup water. Use at ten-day intervals (or more often if needed) to rid plants of whiteflies, mites, aphids, scales, and other pests.
 
So, do some research, come up with your own unique container gardening ideas, gather your materials and get to work. The fruits of your labor will be amazing.

Happy Container Gardening!

Greenhouse Growing For Tomato Plants

There are a couple of ways for approaching tomato growing in a greenhouse, you can either dig and prepare the soil of the greenhouse ready to accept the tomato plants or you can grow the plants in a container such as a plant pot (12″ diameter) or growbag.

Realistically most growbags that are available which can be 3 to 7 gallons in size are only enough to support two plants. There are ways in which you can push this out to 3 plants but for the cost of a growbag its probably as well just to stick to 2 plants, particularly if you take good care of them and produce lots of fruit.

If you go for pots then you should sterilize them before use, to do this you can use a dilute solution of a suitable disinfectant, something like clorox fluid is perfect for this task.

While we are on this subject, you really should wipe down the inside of your greenhouse with disinfectant as well to ensure any residual contaminants that could also cause disease are removed from the glass.

One of the reasons I am suggesting using large pots or growbags for growing tomato plants is because the soil in the greenhouse is going to need to be dug out and replaced every 2 or 3 years anyway to ensure that you get rid of any build up of disease and also because the soil will be pretty much spent in terms of nutrients.

Space is limited in a greenhouse so the best option for plant varieties is to use the indeterminate variety of tomato plant i.e. a vine plant. You can prune the plant to the required size, leaving about 4 to 6 trusses on the main stem, which is about 6′ to 7′ in height, greenhouse size allowing. This will give you lots of fruit over an extended period. You will have to pinch out the main stem when you have enough trusses to stop further growth.

As an aside, using the bush variety is less convenient for greenhouses because they, as the name suggests, form a determinant size of bush without pruning which is probably a little too large in diameter for the average greenhouse. The fruit also has a tendency to all come at once.

Irrespective of the growing method you choose, you should start to feed the tomatoes at the first sign of fruit and for the duration of the growing period, twice a week should be sufficient. Also as you are in a greenhouse regular and consistent watering is also very important and I recommend 2 to 3 times a day with water that has been allowed to warm in the greenhouse.

As the end of the season nears a way of helping the last remaining fruit ripen is to hang a couple of bananas in the apex of the greenhouse. If that fails to ripen the last bit of fruit you can always use the green tomatoes for making a delicious chutney.

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Planting A Fall Vegetable Garden

If you’re like most gardeners, you probably consider August to be the tail end of the growing season. The truth of the matter is that it’s a great time to start your fall garden.

A fall garden can produce excellent vegetables and extend your crops long after your spring planted garden is finished. The vegetables you harvest from the fall garden are often sweeter and milder than those grown over the summer.

What type of vegetable plants you plant in your fall garden will depend on the space you have, as well as the types of vegetables you like. Be sure that you plant vegetables with the shortest growing season, this will increase the chances they will be full grown and harvested before the hard frost sets in. Starting your seeds indoors the first week of July will also give you a good head start.

Most seed packages will be labeled “early season”, or you can find the seeds that are labeled with the fewest days to harvest.‚  Since seeds are not usually kept in stock towards the end of summer, you will probably need to purchase seeds for your fall garden in the spring. You can also find them easily online.

Even vegetables that like the heat of summer, like tomatoes, sweet potatoes, and peppers, will produce nicely until harder frosts hit, which can be fairly late in the year in certain areas.

There are certain vegetable plants that normally stop producing towards the end of summer. These include snap-beans, summer squash, and cucumbers. Even these, if planted in the middle of summer, can produce nicely until the first frosts arrive. Many hardy vegetables will grow with temperatures as low as 20 degrees.

If you have root plants such as beets, carrots or radishes, that have the tops killed by a freeze, you can save them by applying a heavy layer of mulch.

For fall gardening you need to know approximately when the first hard frost normally hits your particular area.  The Farmer’s Almanac is a great resource for this type of information.  It will give you specific dates and is fairly accurate most of the time.  You also need to know approximately how long your plants will take to mature. As I said, this is available by reading the individual seed packets.

To prepare the soil for your fall garden, the first thing you will need to do is clear out leftover summer crops and weeds.  If you leave the leftover vines and plant debris from your summer crops, bacteria and diseases can develop from these leftover remnants.  If your spring plants were not fertilized heavily, you may want to spread a few inches of compost over the garden next.

Once that is done you will need to till the soil and wet it down. Now simply wait 24 hours and your ready to plant.

All too often gardeners will shy away from planting a fall garden, to avoid dealing with frosts. I can tell you from experience that sturdy and healthy vegetables can stand up to a few frosty nights, while producing wonderfully tasting produce.

Fall gardening is not for everyone, but why not give it a try? It can provide you with the opportunity to enjoy garden fresh vegetables for a little while longer each year.