All varieties of basil love warm weather and moisture and are perennials in the right climates. In northern or colder climates, basil is an annual due to the shorter growing season, but is truly a perennial. Thai and African Blue basil can be raised year around, even in colder climates by bringing the plants inside for the colder months and providing plenty of light and moisture. By extending the growing season for basil, cooks can delight the palates of their guests or families year around with fresh basil.
Areas with plenty of sunshine enjoy fresh perennial basil such as Thai and African Blue basil year around. Colder climates present some obstacles, but no obstacle that cannot be overcome. By bringing the plants indoors during cold weather and giving the perennial basil plenty of warmth, moisture and light, raising perennial basil becomes a doable project. Basil raised outside in colder climates need to be replanted each year, but under warmer conditions, basil is perennial.
Thai basil is easy to get started from seed. After the seed is sown, baby plants appear in about one to two weeks. The seedlings need to be thinned out to space each little plant about six to twelve inches apart. African Blue basil is a cross breed and the seeds from this cross is sterile. To grow African Blue, starters are taken from a parent plant and raised as individual plants.
Basil of all kinds needs six to eight hours of continual sunlight each day. Warmer climates provide this type of light, while colder climates need some help with the lighting requirements. An artificial light makes the difference for raising Thai and African Blue basil indoors. The light requirement with artificial light is upped to ten to twelve hours a day. In the summer in colder climates, a south facing garden bed or window sill will give plenty of light to keep the basil healthy.
Well drained soil is a must for basil. Letting too much water accumulate will cause the roots to rot and ruin your plant. Container planting requires that a regular watering schedule is kept. Basil likes lots of moisture, but not excessive moisture. Mulching helps retain the proper amount of moisture for Thai and African Blue basil between watering.
Thai and African Blue perennial basil reaches heights of two to three feet. Once full leaves are on the plant, harvesting can begin. Pinching the leaves and removing flowers helps strengthen the plant and retain the flavor of the basil. Regular harvest improves the health of the plant
Giving perennial basil the right amount of light, moisture and balanced pH in the soil is the secret to raising beautiful plants that produce year around. The pH level should be kept at a neutral level for optimum growing conditions. A small amount of liquid organic fertilizer helps the plants stay strong and healthy.
For a culinary delight, Thai and African blue perennial basil is the secret ingredient for great tasting dishes. The beauty of each variety of basil is immeasurable and will add that touch of elegance to any garden or home.
Understanding Acid And Alkaline Soil The pH scale (from 1 to 14) is defined in very scientific terms as “the negative logarithm of the concentration of hydrogen ions in a solution” – in gardening and landscaping terms, the measure of acidity or alkalinity in soil.
A measure of “1” on the scale indicates an acid strong enough to dissolve anything it comes in contact with; one of “14” an alkali of similar destructive power; “7” is perfectly neutral. Pure water for example has a pH of “7” – being totally neutral.
The scale refers not only to soil (or soil moisture to be exact), but to any solution. Cosmetic companies for example develop their products to the pH equivalent of the skin.
Each step in the scale is 10 times that of the one before. A soil reading of pH5 is ten times more acid than a soil of pH6 and so on. Most soils fall between pH5.5 and pH8.6. Neutral or slightly acid soil in a range around pH7.5 to pH6 is considered ideal for most plants.
It’s important to know the pH of your soil before planting – kits to test your soil are readily available from most garden centers. Understanding the difference between acid and alkaline soil is critical to gardening success
Acid Soils contain very little lime (compounds of calcium). Alkaline soils have larger quantities of lime, in neutral soils the lime is in balance with other elements.
Calcium affects the availability to plants of other nutrient elements such as iron, which can be in extreme shortage in extremely alkaline soil. Plants that cope poorly with this will show signs of Chlorosis and need to be grown in acid soils. Other plants prefer lime and will like the soil to be alkaline.
The ideal is for the soil to be slightly on the acid side of neutral. This will suit most plants and those that need it can be given a small dose of lime to improve their health. It’s always best to group these plants together so a specific area of the garden can be treated.
It’s more difficult to make an alkaline soil acid though it can be achieved by adding an organic mulch – pine needles are quite acid and have proven efficient as an organic mulch for this purpose.
Adding sulphur can help also – as it weathers it makes the soil water acid and locks up some of the free calcium as insoluble calcium sulphate. The down side – sulphur will kill off microorganisms in the soil.
If your garden soil is alkaline and you want to grow acid loving plants it’s best to do so in containers or raised beds of lime-free soil. Water only with rainwater, as where the soil is alkaline the tap water is likely to be alkaline as well.
It’s a general (though by no means hard and fast) rule that soils in humid coastal climates tend to be acid. Soils in drier inland climates are typically alkaline.
The acidity or alkalinity of your soil can be easily quantified on the pH scale. Anything (on a scale of 1 to 14) less than 7 is acid and above is alkaline. Hydrangeas are nature’s indicator, flowering blue in acid soil and pink in alkaline soil. If they can’t seem to make up their mind and flower both ways your soil is likely neutral.
If you can’t be bothered to purchase a testing kit try the method your grandmother likely used – put a little soil on the tip of your tongue. If it is slightly sweet to the taste, your soil is alkaline, slightly sour and your soil is acid.
Want to know what to plant in acid or alkaline soil? Send us a message and I will be happy to offer some options.
Gardening is no easy task, especially if you have put quite a lot of effort into it. It won’t take you long before tending to the flower beds, pruning and doing all sorts of other gardening chores starts to feel tiring and overwhelming. The purpose of gardening is to make you feel happy, not super tired.
To achieve this, you can adopt a few clever tricks that will make the workflow easy. The following techniques aim to keep you sharp on the gardening jobs while helping you conserve your energy. Raised beds are a blessing Whether made of wood (manufactured or regular), pavers or concrete blocks, you can bet that they will make your gardening efforts easy. You needn’t worry about building raised beds yourself, as you will most often see kits in large stores. What you have to remember is the height of the raised bed shouldn’t be too great. A maximum of 40 inches is recommended. You also have to make them at least 3-4 feet wide so that access to the middle is not difficult. Gardening in containers Containers are also convenient for gardening purposes since you can practically place them at whatever height is appropriate. You can put them on the ground, or a table, if that is more convenient for you. Weeding plants in containers are much easier than in raised beds, and you can also water them without much trouble. Depending on the size of the container, you won’t have much trouble. It is worth it to check for containers with wheels, as those are very easy to move around. Use only ergonomic tools There is a wide variety of tools available out there, and you can make a choice to get more convenient ones. For instance, there are tools with smaller handles and such that come with braces to protect your wrists. Some tools feature special handle design with curved handles and indentations for fingers. If you feel the handle of a tool doesn’t feel as comfortable as it should use pipe insulation or tape to make it such. Invest in a pulley system for hanging baskets If you find hanging baskets too heavy to move, remember that you can always get a pulley system for them. This reduces the weight by half at least and is quite convenient. You can lower the baskets when you need to water them or tending to plants there and then return them where they need to be with ease. Tailor the watering can to your ability If you cannot lift heavy, perhaps a standard watering can prove a bad decision. What you can use is a smaller can that is easier to lift and carry around. Warm up before initiating work and take breaks Treat gardening work the same way you would as going to the gym. To prepare your body, you will need to start off easy, as a warm-up before the actual workout. Another important thing is to give yourself regular breaks so that you don’t grow tired quickly after you begin. Take a seat for a few minutes or stand up to stretch your legs if you are working something on the ground. Succession gardening If you are planting crops, you should try out succession gardening. What this means is planting crops at staggered dates. That way they will ripe at different times, which means you won’t feel greatly overwhelmed.
All of these practical tips can greatly help your gardening efforts. Remember to implement them and you will find the work is not that difficult.
Taking care of our plants and flowers is not very easy for most of us especially for those who have busy lifestyles. Gardening may be last in their priorities. So for those who love to garden but doesn’t have much time, the best way to take care of our plants is to choose the right planter boxes to use.
We usually put our plants on the ground or in ordinary pots. But using the right planter boxes can help a lot to make gardening easier for each one of us. Here are some factors that we should consider:
1. Durable materials. Outdoor planters should be made of durable materials so that it can withstand bad or strong weather conditions. Stone and fiberglass planters are just some of the durable planter boxes that are ideal for outdoor settings. Commercial planters are usually high in quality so their durability may be out of question.
2. Self-watering devices. Gardening would be easier for us if we choose outdoor planters that have self-watering devices. This will keep the plants and flowers moist for a long period of time. So this will reduce the number of times that we have to water them.
3. Size. Consider the size of the outdoor planter that you are going to use for your plants. Large planters may be necessary for trees or tall plants. Whereas small modern planters are ideal for your patio especially those that have beautiful designs.
4. Function. Planter boxes that have other functions other than being plant containers can be an added benefit for us. There are illuminated planters that can be a stylish source of light in our garden at night. They can also be an added protection for the plants so that they won’t be stepped on at the dark.
In this technologically-advanced world, it is now possible for everyone to maintain a beautiful garden at home. With the high quality and functional commercial planters, our plants and flowers will be well-taken cared of without taking much of our time. In addition to that, modern planters have excellent designs that can further enhance the beauty of our garden.
The Muscovy duck has been selectively bred for hundreds of years. It is often a good option for little farms and Gardens to help manage pest. Muscovies are distinctive, the only ducks that did not descend from mallards. They are South American natives. The initial name was “Musco” duck because they were voracious eaters of mosquitoes. Muscovies come in a number of colors. The most numerous commercial variety is probably the white. Muscovies. They are relatively good fliers.
They will roost in trees and they will also roost on “perches” or “roosts,” at night if available.Muscovy duck can live as free range and while they can fly, they just fly around will not fly away and leave the property. In fact our Muscovy ducks hardly ever fly. Muscovy ducks do not make as much noise as other ducks.
Use Muscovy Ducks as pest controllers
Muscovy Ducks do an awesome job at controlling mosquitoes and flies. They will eat all sorts of bugs, the black widow and the deadly brown spider, Japanese beetles, maggots, grasshoppers, mosquitoes, mosquito maggot, slugs, snails and everything else that crawls, creeps, or flies. They also make a quick food out of mice, snakes, wasps, and hornets. They love to eat roaches and will eat them voraciously. They consume every bug they observe including ants. One of the things that make them very valuable is that they love spiders. They will even eat poisonous ones including the deadly brown and the Black Widow spider. They will go under things such as picnic tables and get up in the corners and crevices and eat the bugs, spiders, and other insects.
Their bug eating activities help reduce problems with bugs when working in the blueberry field or garden. Using Muscovy also helps eliminate the need to purchase chemicals for pest control to keep pests down. This can help in raising a pesticide free blueberries and vegetables.
Muscovy Ducks are Easy to raise
They’re inexpensive and trouble-free: Muscovies reproduce well. They are very good foragers, they grow quick and they rarely get sick. They will eat what the other animals leave or spill. They are good mothers. Muscovy Ducks also are very useful on farms where you have other animals because they eat any the excess food left by other animals. This helps reduce rats because there is no excess food lying around that can attract rats. They will also eat the spare food from the chickens or other animals.
Meat and eggs of Muscovies
They are really efficient for meat production. Muscovy breast is the size of a steak; you wouldn’t deduce it was duck without knowing. The meat is lean when compared to the fatty meat of ducks of mallard decent. Its leanness and tenderness is often compared to veal. The meat of Muscovy ducks is one of the healthiest meats you can purchase or grow. It is 98% or greater fat-free. Some people declare that the breast of a Muscovy duck taste like a Sirloin steak. It is sometimes made into “hamburger”. Persons requiring a low-fat diet use it. The meat is great tasting and very nutritious. Being a very lean meat it is not greasy like that of other ducks.
Muscovy eggs are tasty and are used in many dishes. They are considered a delicacy. Muscovy ducks can lay as many as almost 200 eggs a year. This can provide plenty of eggs for you to eat. They will nest three or four times a year and hatch up to 20 ducklings a time.
There is a certain order in nature that should be maintained to make the lifecycle in the ecosystem continuous. This sense of order also applies in your garden, and the crucial factors would be your plants and insects surrounding them. That’s why telling the difference between harmful and helpful insects is important.
Garden Wars: Knowing Your Allies And Enemies
A lot of people think that having insects in their garden is a bad thing. This is true because some insects, like aphids, can be annoying and harmful. But not all of them should be considered pests. Other insects, like ladybugs, are very helpful. The trick here is to get a balance between the helpful insects and the harmful ones.
A Fine Lady Garden Helper
As said, ladybugs are very helpful insects, especially in your garden. This is because they feed on small caterpillars and Aphids mites, which are damaging to your garden. Both the larvae and adult ladybugs eat the pests in your garden.
Ladybug larvae are mainly active between the months of May and July, while the adults come after. You can even buy Ladybugs at many nurseries and greenhouses, or order them through mail.
Delicate Laces For Predating
One of the most excellent insect predators that you would want to have in your garden are Green Lacewings. Its larvae eat Mealybugs, Aphids, Spider mites, white flies, Thrips, and scales, just to name a few.
Hover Helpers
Another good insect for your garden are Hover Flies. They are very helpful insects and look like wasps or dark bees. Hover flies eat caterpillars, green flies, and fruit tree Spider Mites. Hover Flies are easily attracted to plants like phacelia plants and marigolds. Putting plants like these throughout your garden will encourage Hover Flies to thrive.
Dragon Friends
Dragonflies are also one of the best beneficial insects. They eat mosquitoes, which are not only harmful for your plants, but for humans as well. You should plant reedy plants to encourage dragonflies to thrive in your garden.
Busy Bees
Although bees may seem dangerous to some people, they are actually quite helpful to gardens and harmless to other insects. They do not eat or predate upon other insects. They help out in your garden by pollinating flowers and trees. A lot of vegetables need flower pollination too. Having bees close by will aid this process. You should plant flowers throughout your garden to encourage busy bee workers to visit.
Know Your Foes
Insects that you should watch out for are Scales, Leaf Miners, Japanese beetle and Spittlebugs. All of these are very harmful insects for your plants. So if you spot them thriving around your garden, appropriate action must be done.
Most people choose to use insecticides or pesticides. Yes, this may be the easiest way to kill insects, but too much of this can also be harmful, especially to your plants. That’s why making use of good insects is, generally, a much better way to deal with pests than the use of pesticides.
When you use good insects, the method is natural and you don’t contribute to polluting nature. With just a little effort in learning which bugs are good and bad, you can improve the way you and your garden handles insect problems. So the next time you see an insect thriving in your garden, always think twice before you even try to squish or shoo them away. They may just be the friends you need.
Garden pests are not the thing most gardeners relish talking about. But whether you’re container gardening or working in flower beds, for beautiful clay flower pots or blooming perennial flowers, herbs, and vegetables beds, knowing your stuff about pesky critters is essential.
Your first (and best) line of defense is good plant culture. This means paying attention to these 4 essentials:
Proper soil for your flowers, herbs, or vegetables you’re growing. Why? Because planting in the wrong soil (such as peonies in cactus mix) won’t promote a healthy plant. And poor plant health means less defenses to ward off garden pests and diseases. Characteristics of the right planting soil include that it’s rich enough for the plant, but well-draining, and light enough for good root development.
Water properly. Too much leads to water-logged roots and fungal root inflections plus all sorts of other debilitating problems. If the soil is moist, don’t water (unless you have a plant, such as mint or hydrangea that relish evenly moist soil). And make sure your pots have drainage holes. If the water stands in the soil, even out of sight, this spells trouble.
Fertilize well through the whole growing season (don’t start strong and then quit!). And know your plants in terms of soil ph requirements. For example, azaleas or the herb chamomile loves an acid soil, while basil prefers a neutral ph, and oregano a slightly alkaline one. Know your plant and provide the soil additives they need to stay healthy.
Clean environment. Remove spent blooms, dead leaves, and other potentially decaying matter. Garden pests and diseases thrive in an unclean environment. Add good air circulation here, too. Don’t crowd the plants together or you’ll be removing a lot more than spent blooms. In short, strong plants, like strong bodies of any sort, are better equipped to stay healthy.
But as we know, stuff happens.
We’ll deal with seven of the most common garden pests below, both in terms of how to spot the problem and what to do about it.
But before we get to the pests, one word about beneficial insects-yes, there are some! Lacewings, lady bugs, and praying mantis are three of the best.
They love to eat the destructive insects that harm your garden. And, you can find reputable suppliers online.
Ok, on to our subject: Garden Pests.
The Pesky Little Critters
Aphids The Problem: These are pretty common, but very hard to see. 3 millimeters and green, they love the undersides of leaves where they suck until the leaf becomes rolled and sticky. The Solution: You can spray the plant leaves to knock off the offenders and use a spray of water and soap (best to use insecticidal soap from the nursery). Repeat every few days until they’re gone.
Spider Mites The Problem: Too little to see with the human eye, these guys also hang out on the underside of leaves. You’ll know they’re there if your leaves turn yellow and wither. At the worst, there’s a white web on the leaves. The Solution: Rinse the leaves as with aphids and spray. You can also move the plants to a cool spot as you do this. Spider mites like it hot.
Whiteflies The Problem: Little white flies. Usually a whole lot of them, and they fly up disgustingly when you touch a leaf (they like the underside) or water. The leaves wither. The Solution: Use an insecticidal soap on them, and they’ll bite the dust pretty quickly.
Mealybugs The Problem: 3 millimeter yellow-brown nasties that hold onto the stems and leaves. They leave behind little white fluffs and the leaves get sticky. The Solution: You can squish the bugs between your fingers if you’re not like me and have a bug phobia. Otherwise, clean off the critters with a hose or hard spray with insecticidal soap and treat with horticultural oil you can buy online or at the nursery.
The Bigger Critters
Caterpillars The Problem: You’ll see hanging larvae and caterpillars-not too hard to spot. The thing about these garden pests is you need to decide if the harm is less than the pleasure of the butterfly that might come out. Sometimes letting them hang around, literally, can bring quite a lot of pleasure. The Solution: Just pick off and discard. Enough said.
Japanese Beetles The Problem: Big beetles with a shiny brown carapace and black head that reduce ornamental leaves to skeletons. The Solution: Pick off and discard. You can drop them in a soapy solution if you get no pleasure from the squish option.
Snails and Slugs The Problem: Little slow-moving, shelled creatures that love, love, love hostas. The Solution: I’ve heard of lots of solutions, none of which have worked very well for me-these include setting out jar tops filled with beer (Really). Putting sticky boards at the base of plants-you have to get rid of them in the morning. Pick them up and dispose of them. In a manner of your choosing.
There’s something truly enchanting about black flowers. They’re bold. They’re mysterious. They’re elegant in a way that demands a second look. And if you’re like me, you’ve probably dreamed of having a garden filled with those shadowy blooms that feel like they’ve stepped out of a fairytale.
But here’s the truth—we still haven’t achieved a truly black flower. Most of the blooms we call black are actually very deep shades of red or purple, so dark they appear black to the naked eye. And yet, that doesn’t take away from their beauty. In fact, it makes them all the more intriguing.
So if you’re curious to add a little drama and depth to your garden, I’ve gathered some of the best “black†flowers to help you bring that dream to life. Let’s take a closer look!
Black Violas and Pansies (Viola spp.)
Let’s start with one of the most charming and easy-to-grow black flowers: black violas.
These little treasures are among the closest to truly black that you’ll find. With their velvety petals and delicate shape, they add both elegance and a whimsical touch to containers, borders, or cottage gardens.
🌼 Why we love them:
Edible! Use them to decorate cakes or salads.
Cool-season favorites – they bloom best in spring and fall.
Great for pots, flower beds, and edging.
🌿 Tips: Keep them deadheaded to encourage more blooms. They love sun but tolerate light shade too.
Black Columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris var. stellata ‘Black Barlow’)
This one isn’t truly black either—but it sure looks the part with its deep, almost ink-colored double blooms.
Black Columbine adds a touch of elegance with a wild side. It’s perfect for woodland gardens or shady spots where it will spread gently over time.
🌼 Why we love it:
Unique star-shaped flowers.
Hardy, low-maintenance, and deer-resistant.
Adds a romantic, heirloom feel.
🌿 Tips: Plant in part-shade and keep the soil moist. They self-seed, so they may surprise you next year in a new corner of the garden!
Black Daylilies (Hemerocallis)
One of the easiest perennials you’ll ever grow, black daylilies are stunning in the landscape.
The variety ‘Black Emanuelle’ is one of the darkest you’ll find, with petals so deep red they’re nearly black. These flowers love the sun—but they’ll appreciate some shade during the hottest part of the day to prevent fading.
🌼 Why we love them:
Nearly indestructible!
Multiply year after year.
Attract pollinators like bees and butterflies.
🌿 Tips: Daylilies thrive in full sun but provide afternoon shade for the darkest varieties to help preserve their color.
Black Hollyhock (Alcea rosea var. nigra)
Now here’s a classic with serious height and drama.
The black hollyhock can grow up to 8 feet tall, creating towering spires of dark maroon, almost black blooms. It’s a real showstopper, especially along fences or the back of garden beds.
🌼 Why we love it:
Edible petals that can be used for teas or dyes.
Attracts hummingbirds and bees.
Adds old-world charm to cottage gardens.
🌿 Tips: Plant in full sun and stake them if they get too tall. They’ll bloom in their second year, but you can start seeds indoors to speed things up.
Black Scabiosa, or Mourning Bride (Scabiosa atropurpurea)
Let’s talk about texture and scent.
Black Scabiosa gives you both. Its almost-black pincushion flowers smell sweet and look stunning in cut flower arrangements. Plus, they’re butterfly magnets!
🌼 Why we love it:
Long-lasting in vases.
Unusual and dramatic.
Blooms all summer long.
🌿 Tips: Give them plenty of sun and good drainage. Pinch back early for bushier plants.
Black Tulips (Tulipa ‘Queen of Night’)
Oh, tulips. The jewel of spring.
And if you’re chasing black beauty, ‘Queen of Night’ is your prize. This tulip has dark, silky petals that glow maroon in sunlight but look nearly black in the garden.
🌼 Why we love it:
Striking and elegant.
Pairs beautifully with bright yellows and soft pinks.
Blooms in mid to late spring.
🌿 Tips: Plant in well-draining soil and full sun. Tulips like a cold winter, so chill the bulbs if you’re in a warm climate.
Chocolate Cosmos (Cosmos atrosanguineus)
This flower is pure indulgence—for the eyes and the nose.
Chocolate Cosmos has dark, cocoa-colored petals and a sweet chocolate scent that’s simply irresistible.
🌼 Why we love it:
Smells like dessert.
Attracts butterflies.
Perfect for containers or borders.
🌿 Tips: Plant in full sun with good drainage. In cold climates, lift the tubers and store them indoors over winter.
Black Ball Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus ‘Black Ball’)
Cornflowers usually come in blue, but this dark beauty offers something extra.
The ‘Black Ball’ variety is a rich burgundy-black that pops in flower beds. They’re easy, cheerful, and great for cutting or drying.
🌼 Why we love it:
Drought-tolerant.
Edible petals for salads or drinks.
Gorgeous dried flowers for winter decor.
🌿 Tips: Sow directly in poor soil. Too much fertilizer makes them floppy and leafy.
Black Iris (Iris chrysographes or Iris germanica ‘Before the Storm’)
Few flowers are as dramatic as a black iris.
With their ruffled petals and stately form, black irises are the definition of garden luxury. They prefer a moist, sunny spot and reward you with bold, inky blooms in late spring.
🌼 Why we love it:
Exotic and mysterious.
Pairs well with water features.
Makes a statement in any garden.
🌿 Tips: Plant the rhizomes just below the surface. Keep the soil moist but not soggy.
Black Peony Poppy (Papaver somniferum var. paeoniflorum)
If you’re going for bold and dramatic, Black Peony Poppies deliver.
These stunning flowers look like ruffled black satin and bloom in early summer. They’re easy to grow and offer one of the deepest hues you’ll find.
🌼 Why we love them:
Big, bold, and breathtaking.
Great for cottage-style gardens.
Self-seed readily.
🌿 Tips: Sow seeds directly in early spring. They don’t transplant well, so start them where you want them to grow.
Black Roses (Rosa spp.)
Let’s end with the most romantic of all—the black rose.
There’s no such thing as a true black rose, but varieties like ‘Black Baccara’, ‘Deep Secret’, and ‘Midnight Blue’ come close. Their deep, dark petals are rich in color and emotion.
🌼 Why we love them:
Sophisticated and timeless.
Fragrant and long-lasting.
Perfect for dramatic floral displays.
🌿 Tips: Roses like rich, well-draining soil, full sun, and regular feeding. Choose disease-resistant varieties for less fuss.
Design Tip: Make Them Pop!
Black flowers can disappear into a sea of green if you’re not careful. Instead of planting them alone, pair them with lighter or brighter colors to make them shine.
Here are some combo ideas:
Bright yellow coreopsis with black violas.
Pale pink cosmos beside black tulips.
Lime-green foliage with black scabiosa.
Orange zinnias around black hollyhocks.
Black flowers are like velvet curtains in a room—they bring depth, richness, and focus. But they need contrast to show off their magic.
Bringing the Dream Closer
The dream of a truly black flower still dances just out of reach. But thanks to centuries of breeding and a bit of garden magic, we’re closer than ever.
And honestly? I don’t mind that most of these blooms are just very deep red or purple. Their mystery, their elegance, their drama—it’s all part of the charm.
So if you’ve been wishing for a garden with a little more edge, a little more mystery, or a touch of gothic glamour… now’s your chance.
Pick a few of these shadowy stars. Mix them with golds, silvers, and pastels. Let them shine. Let them whisper their secrets through your garden paths.
Because sometimes, the most beautiful flowers aren’t the brightest—they’re the darkest.
Have a favorite black flower of your own? Let’s talk blooms—I’d love to hear about your garden dreams!
A well-landscaped yard can make all the difference in terms of curb appeal. But if you’re like most homeowners, you probably don’t have a lot of extra time or money to spend on landscaping your entire property. That’s why focusing on one specific area, like the fence line, can be a great way to make a big impact without breaking the bank.
Here are four tips for landscaping along your fence line:
Useful Tips And Ideas For Landscaping Along The Fence Line
Decide on a style and stick to it. You might be tempted to try out a bunch of different styles for your landscaping, but that will only end up making your yard look cluttered and messy. Instead, pick one style that you like and stick to it throughout your landscaping. This will create a cohesive look that is much more visually appealing.
Use low-maintenance plants. There’s no need to choose high-maintenance plants that require a lot of watering and upkeep. Stick with low-maintenance plants that are drought-resistant and able to thrive in your climate. This will save you time and money in the long run.
Mulch around your plants. Mulching is not only good for your plants, but it also helps to prevent weeds from growing. You can find mulch at most home improvement stores or online retailers. Be sure to spread it around your plants evenly and give them a good amount of coverage.
Consider using decorative stones or other accents. In addition to plants, there are other ways to spruce up your fence line landscaping. Decorative stones or other accents can add visual interest and texture to your yard. Be sure to choose accents that complement the overall style of your landscaping for the best results.
By following these tips, you can easily create an attractive and eye-catching fence line landscape that will boost your curb appeal and make your neighbors green with envy!
Grouping Plants Together to Achieve a More Natural Look
Have you ever looked at a landscape and thought it looked too perfect? Maybe the plants were all the same height, or they were spaced too evenly apart. If you’re going for a more natural look, one of the best things you can do is group plants together in clusters.
Why Group Plants Together? When you group plants together, it gives the landscape a more organic feel. It also helps to camouflage any bare spots in your yard, since the plants will conceal them. Another benefit of grouping plants together is that it can save you money. Buying several small plants is usually cheaper than buying one large plant, so if you group them together, you’ll get more bang for your buck.
How to Group Plants Together The first step is to plan out your landscaping before you start planting. This will help you figure out how many plants you need, and where they should go. Once you have a plan, make sure all your plants are healthy before putting them in the ground. Once they’re in, water them well and give them some time to adjust to their new home. After a few weeks, you should start to see some new growth.
Grouping plants together is a great way to achieve a more natural look in your landscaping. It’s also economical and can help to camouflage any bare spots in your yard. With a little planning and patience, you can have a beautiful, organic-looking landscape that will be the envy of your neighborhood.
Below are some landscaping tips and ideas you can consider for improving your fence line:
Before starting to plant along fence the line, make sure you remove any brush and debris on the area. This means removing weeds growing along the privacy fence. You can use a weed trimmer to cut down weeds and grass next to the fence.
Aside from planting ornamental plants, the area along the fence is the ideal location to grow long, narrow vegetable garden beds. The edible garden will decorate and improve the look of the area while making the space functional to produce your own food.
If you want to cover some of the wooden fence’s parts (especially the old, rotten ones) plant vines, like bougainvillea or trumpet vine along the base of the fence. These vines will naturally grow up the fence to add color to your fence and at the same time, soften the look of the wood.
If you want to grow plants along the fence line, grow tall ornamental grasses, such as cape thatching reed or muhly grass, along the area. When they grow, they will fill out to cover a large area of the fence while adding movement and texture to your outdoor space.
To have blooming flowers near your fence, plant ornamental grasses with flowering perennials such as poppies or hydrangeas. You can also consider growing flowering herbs like chives and lavender since they work great for different types of border gardens.
You can also consider planting pots. Place large, decorative pots along the fence line. Make sure you pace the pots evenly along the privacy structure. To add color and boost visual interest to the area, grow a variety of plants in one pot.
Lastly, to improve the look of your fence and outdoor space, you can also hang decorative garden fixtures such as metal lanterns as accent pieces. However, make sure you choose only lightweight garden decorations that won’t cause the fence to sag or lean and screw the pieces into the wood securely.
Contrary to popular speculation or belief, growing grapes in your backyard is not as difficult as one may presume. When someone mentions the idea of starting a grape garden, one may immediately assume that without acres of free land at their disposal, it will be almost impossible to be successful. This is absolutely NOT true!
As a matter of fact, there are many amateur grape growers today who are content with their small vine garden in their backyard. The grapes they produce are excellent for eating and making wine and the little effort put into it has a high return.
As a full time grape farmer, I have learned the secrets of what it takes to grow the best tasting grapes for decades. As a child I would work with my father on his farm planting and pruning grapevines all day long and continued working with him as a teenager and even now as an adult and family man. I want to teach you how to grow grapes and share with you the secrets of keeping a successful grapevine garden so that you too can enjoy what these delicious fruits have to offer.
First of all backyard grape growing does not require expensive fertilizers or manures. You can get some really good vines from ordinary soil. Another goodie is that you won’t have to invest a lot of time in your garden because the roots themselves will seek out what they need. The only thing you need to concern yourself with is where to put the vine itself.
It really is quite amazing how no matter where you plant your vines, all you have to do is train the vines around your house towards the well sun lit areas. If you have an open garden where the sun hits all day long, then that will work even better.
The best time to plant your grapevines is during the fall. Do not let the vines fruit during the first season of planting. Instead, always remember to cut down your vines to about four buds. The reason for this is that those four buds will become the strongest points and will lead the rest of the vine up the wall where you planted them in. You want your grapevine to use all of its energy producing a strong wood for the next season because it is during the second season of growth that you get the best grapes.
Remember that the wood that is born this year will lead to next year’s fruits. So during the first year, clip away any flower buds that may form, thus making sure that the vine’s energy is focused on producing wood.
When pruning during the summer, you want to cut off all new growth while leaving the old wood to provide for future fruit. Only remove old growth when they become a straggling nuisance hanging all over your garden. When pruning in the fall or early winter, you should cut back the vines this time to about five to six buds only so that once again, the vines will use all their energy for producing strong wood during the winter.
Most grape vines ripen during the late summer, early September. At this time you can enjoy the best tasting home grown grapes and continue preparing your vines for future growths.
Wait! Don’t go planting some grapevines you purchased at your local nursery and then wonder why you are getting poor results. Many of these vines come from other states and were cut from a healthy patch which will never have the strength to ripen once taken home. Learn the fundamental procedures of backyard grape growing first before making a mistake!
Tips For Successful Backyard Grape Growing
done properly. Grapevines are perennial plants and will grow for years to come. There are a few things to consider before you just jump in and start planting your grapevines. Otherwise, mistakes made at planting will haunt you in the future.
Grapes need lots of sunshine. One of the biggest mistakes that the home gardener makes when growing grapes is to plant them in the shade under a tree or where they get shaded by houses most of the day. If you watch wild grapevines grow, you will notice they make all efforts to climb trees and shrubs to get into the daylight. Without proper sunlight, proper ripeness cannot be obtained. Be sure the spot you choose has good sun most of the day.
A second mistake that many home gardeners make is to not take into account the grape variety’s growth habit and vigor. These two factors come into play when planting the grapevine and deciding on how to trellis the vine.
Vigorous varieties need lots of space. You can find out how vigorous a variety is by consulting your local nursery where you bought your vines. Vigorous varieties need eight feet between vines when planting. Less vigorous varieties can be planted closer at six feet between vines. Very low vigor vines can be planted as close as four feet.
Growth habit determines the trellis type and how the grapevine will be trained and pruned. Grape varieties with a large portion of their ancestry coming from wild American species tend to droop. These are like the wild vines that grow to the top of small trees and shrubs then cascade downward during the summer. The gardener will find that it is best to mimic this natural growth.
Vines of this type will be trained to a high wire about six feet off the ground. The grapevines are pruned to two to four long canes each year. As the shoots grow each year from the canes left at pruning time, they will grow outward from each side and soon start drooping towards the ground, forming a curtain of leaves by the end of the growing season.
Many varieties have the European grape, V.vinifera, in their ancestry. The European grape varieties tend to have a more upright growth. These grape varieties need a more extensive trellis system. At least four wires are needed to contain them. The first wire is approximately three feet off the ground with the two additional wires at eight inch intervals above the bottom wire. The vines are trained to a trunk that extends to the bottom wire.
Two to four canes are pruned and tied to the bottom wire on each side of the trunk. As the shoots grow during the spring and summer they are tied straight up to the wires above. Once the shoots have reached approximately 16 inches above the top wire, they are cut off at the tips. This “hedging” prevents further growth and shading of the vine below.
Grapes need a good water supply when they are actively growing in the spring and summer. They should be watered at least once a week in areas of little rain. More often under drought conditions. This watering should be continued until the berries begin to turn color. After coloring, watering is not needed and will in fact slow the ripening process. Once the leaves have fallen in the fall, one last large watering should be undertaken before the ground freezes to get the vines through the winter.
Perhaps the biggest mistake I see with home gardeners growing grapes is neglecting pruning the vines each year. This is a must! Without pruning the grapevine becomes an overgrown tangled mess. The grapevines overbear and the berries don’t ripen properly. Disease sets in as the vine is over shaded and doesn’t receive drying winds. The vines will weaken over time and eventually die before their time.
Pruning removes 90-95% of the previous year’s growth. It keeps the vines in balance and aids in controlling the crop and ripening the fruit. Pruning the grapevine is an art, not a science. Information on grapevine pruning can be obtained through your local Ag Extension agent. They have agricultural bulletins that detail the pruning process.
Growing grapevines can be a nice hobby that will provide you and your family with fresh fruit or grapes to make wine with. Table grape varieties and wine varieties are distinct. Make sure you are planting the proper varieties for the wanted purpose. Home gardeners should also make sure that the varieties they are planting are adapted to their local climate. Some varieties cannot take cold winters, while others can tolerate freezing temperatures down to -25-30F.
Varieties that have American grape species in their ancestry can tolerate colder winters. Make sure you consult with your nurseryman to fit the variety you are planting to your conditions. The variety you choose must also be able to ripen in your climate. I see too many home gardeners planting varieties that take up to 170 days or more to ripen in areas that have only 150 days or less in their growing seasons.
If you are thinking of growing grapevines in your backyard or garden, be sure to consider the above factors before you start planting. Choose your grape varieties based upon what you plan to use them for, how they are adapted to the local growing conditions, and plan the trellis according to the variety’s growth habit. I wish you all the luck in your endeavor.
As oriental dishes are becoming more popular in America, so are the vegetables used in those dishes. You can grow these unusual Asian vegetables in your own organic garden.
Mizuna: Also know as Japanese Greens, Japanese Mustard, Spider Mustard and many more.
Mizuna is a compact green plant with fringed, dark green leaves that can be used cooked or fresh. This plant has been described to be slightly spicy and have mild peppery flavor. One can use the leaves in a fresh salad, cooked in a stir fry, steamed, or even boiled. Add them to a clear soup to add color and texture.
The best time to sow seeds is in early spring. You will want to grow this plant like spinach. Space the plants about 6 inches apart. This plant is good for successive plantings. You can harvest the entire plant, or just some of the leaves.
Shungiku: Also known as Chrysanthemum, Tong Hao in Chinese, Ssukgat in Korean, and Kikuna in Japanese.
Shungiku is a beautiful plant that has single yellow flower which are edible, but it is mostly known for the leafy green leaves. Both the leaves and the flowers can be enjoyed in a fresh salad either alone or with other Asian vegetables. You may use the leaves in stir fry, casseroles, soups or many other hot dishes although it is recommended that you wait to the last minute to add the Shungiku leaves. These leaves cook quickly and are known to loose their structure.
Sow seeds in early to mid spring and early fall. This vegetable will not do well during summer conditions causing it to go into premature flowering. You may harvest individual leaves or the entire plant. Thin the plants as needed while enjoying the thinned plants in your favorite dishes.
Daikon: Also known as Chinese Radish, Aukobi-Daikon, or Asian Radish.
Daikon is a torpedo shaped radish that comes in many colors but most commonly white. Larger breeds can get up to 2 ft long and 3 in wide. The root (radish part) is mildly spicy and adds flavor to salads, sauces, and stir fries. In Korea, the daikon is traditionally made into a diced sweet pickle. You can steam the peppery leaves or add them to a soup.
Sows seeds during the spring for a summer harvest, and fall for a winter harvest. When purchasing your seeds, select the variety for the season you are planning on planting. Plants should be spread 6 inches apart. They take about 60 days until harvest. Carefully dig up the entire plant.
Growing unusual Asian vegetables in your own organic garden is fun and exciting. If you decide to grow these or any other Asian vegetables, you better get your Asian cookbook out and get ready to make some delicious meals!
Vegetable Gardening in Small Spaces
Do not let the lack of space be a reason or an excuse to not have a vegetable garden at your home. Thousands of people are in the same situation as you and that is the space they have available to grow fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs from seeds is very limited.
Maybe you live in a big city and land available is scarce, or you reside in a condominium or apartment and the only thing available to you is a patio. Either way, there are some great solutions to help you through this. You can be growing your own fresh veggies in no time.
I recently spoke with Tracy Godsey who runs the small container blog Eden’s Container. Tracy started her small space vegetable gardening adventures when growing fruits, vegetables and herbs in containers is all she could do with her limited apartment space, which consisted mainly of a balcony.
“I currently grow herbs on my patio including basil, parsley oregano, thyme, mint and chives. The basil and parsley are the only plants that won’t overwinter in my containers outdoors.”, says Tracy. “In a vegetable garden, full-sized plants can grow in any pot that holds 3-5 gallons of soil. Large plants like tomatoes need 5 gallons, while plants with shallow roots like lettuce can get by in a 3 gallon pot. Even smaller plants like radishes can grow well in trays and produce a harvest very quickly. If you don’t have a container handy, you can make one by filling a plastic tube (such as a garbage bag or bread wrapper) with potting soil. These types of tubes are known as grow bags.”
Tracy reminded me of a very important factor that I had not thought about and that was the weight of what you are growing. If you are on a second floor balcony where weight will be an issue, Tracy recommends, selecting smaller heirloom varieties and grow them in hanging baskets.
Just because you are limited on space does not mean you are limited on what you can grow. Remember to select fruits, vegetables and herbs that you and your family will consume. Since space is a premium you do not want to waste any with items that will get discarded. Be careful not to over water your items in containers and make sure your containers have adequate drainage holes. To protect from the loss of dirt through those drainage holes use coffee filters at the bottom or paper towels. Both options allow water to pass through but not dirt.
On a final note, “never put ordinary dirt in containers, only potting soil,” says Tracy. “You will have much better success since the soil is already formulated for growing plants in pots.”
Now it’s your turn to roll your sleeves up, get some containers, fill them with potting soil and plant the seeds of your favorite fruits, veggies and herbs. Don’t let space, or in this case, the lack thereof, prohibit you from eating fresh from the garden.
