Category: Gardening

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How to Compost in the Garden

Raised bed garden

Starting Guide to Composting

When organic matter has finished decomposing the end result is compost. Although there are many types of organic matter such as manure, leaves, garden waste and kitchen scraps etc. although there are many types of composting organic matter will eventually do its job with or without you.

Composting does not have be a difficult task, most people can achieve quick results it’s just a matter of managing your time properly. If you want your compost to be ready faster then let’s get started.

To start we will use kitchen and garden waste. The only materials required at this time are a shovel or pitchfork. If you do not know where to build your compost pile there are compost bins or tumblers that you can use. In this case we will just use the ground but in the future a bin is more effective and keeps unwanted animals from your site.

Make sure that the compost is a safe distance from the house. All you need now are the ingredients. In the house you can start to collect kitchen scraps in a large coffee can or you may even use a large pail with a lid. You know when to take the scraps to your compost when you start to smell an odor. Make sure not to mix the compost too much, start out by mixing the compost once a week or less. This will speed up the process your compost needs to complete itself.

Try to obtain grass clippings and leaves for your compost. Leaves will provide carbon and your kitchen scraps will provide nitrogen. Try to stay away from scraps that are oily or greasy this will only attract unwanted pests. The best things for your compost are egg shells, coffee grinds, tea bags, bones and even hair. Many baseball diamonds have used hair to get their grass started. Undertake if possible a search for green manure if you can, if not regular steer manure will do.

When is the compost complete?

Once the organic matter has finished decomposing your will know by the texture and smell. When your compost has a strong odor your will know that it is not getting enough oxygen. If the end result smells woodsy or earthy then your compost is complete.

If you are concerned that you are using too much compost then stop worrying as your soil will never reject the amount that you use. The end result should be a proud yard, garden or plant you can enjoy.

Improving Soil with Compost

Soil modification is a key ingredient for how to start a garden. The content and texture of your soil is critical. To have a successful garden, you will need to have good soil. The best soil is not sandy, and it’s not too much like clay. It needs to be able to drain adequately, but hang on to enough moisture so that your plants don’t go thirsty. Too much sand and the water runs off, too much clay and you drown your plants. You may need to modify your soil before you start your garden.

If your soil sticks together, it’s too much like clay and you will need to amend it. If your soil is too sandy, meaning it won’t hardly stick together at all, you will also need to amend it. The way that you amend both kinds of soil is to add organic matter, or compost.

Luckily, organic matter is nothing more than plant or animal matter that is decomposing. The easiest way that you can add organic matter to your soil is to add compost or apply mulch. If you have a heavy clay like soil, it’s best to add manure, or green plant material since they break down more rapidly, instead of peat moss, straw or shredded bark, because they don’t break down as quickly. Even if you have good soil adding compost is always a good idea.

Adding compost to clay like soil makes it more pliable and improves its ability allow water to flow through. Sandy soil doesn’t have enough organic matter, so adding large amounts helps to give sandy soil a better ability to hold water. Large amounts of organic matter are likely to be needed to make your soil suitable. You will usually want to use a ratio of 2 to 1 compost to soil for it to be effective.

Air, water, minerals, and organic matter are all components of healthy soil. There are benefits of adding decomposed matter to good soil, in addition to compensating for poor soil like sand or clay, and that is it adds carbon, which promotes good bacteria growth, and it is more likely that you will have hearty plants.

You can’t have too much compost. In fact, you shouldn’t till your soil more than once or twice a year after you have worked in appropriate amounts of organic matter. This is because as the soil is turned, oxygen is added and it feeds the microbial activity that breaks down the organic matter. So if you don’t till it, it slows down the destruction of your organic matter.

If you invest the time to make sure you soil is healthy it will pay dividends when it comes to growing your garden.

Compost Bins

You can compost for nothing ( zero pounds / dollars) by piling your garden and food waste up in a corner. How do you decide whether to pay 20, 60, 140 or even 900 pounds (yes really!) for a compost bin? You ‘justify’ the cash by convincing yourself of the ‘value’. We show you how to do this by checking the composting features meet your needs at a price you can afford.

Sounds like hard work – why not just go online, look for a 5 star ratings and best price – job done. Almost all the online reviews look like this “arrived/did not arrive on time (score 1-5), it was easy/hard to set up (score 1-5). I’d let you know how it works! The all important bit is missing – few return 12 months to let you know if it worked and how well.

We can summarize the process of how do choose the ‘right compost bin’ or the ‘best compost bin’ for you into seven steps:

Step 1 – WHY – define your goals

Step 2- WHERE – review your available space and site for the bin

Step 3 – WHAT & WHEN – how much garden and food waste you produce

Step 4 – EFFORT – how much time and effort you are willing to invest

Step 5 – HOW – which method (ex. hot, cold, digesters, vermicompost) and which bin features are essential and which are nice to have (ex. low odor, no rats, no flies, handle all food waste, kills pathogens, kills weed seeds)?

Step 6 – CHECK – build a feature list

Step 7 – MATCH – which compost bin will deliver the best price / performance

Before we go any further, let’s consider your time and effort to read this article. You might have the time and interest in composting to fully research the topic – if so read the detail below), but many will just want a ‘fast track’ to help them make a quick decision with a degree of confidence that they are choosing a one that will work.

The fast track

Read between the lines of the vendor marketing hype (that’s the polite term!).

Seek user recommendations. Ignore the ‘arrived/did not arrive’ on time, ‘easy/hard’ to assemble. Look for reviews that state “It works, it does what it says, I have great compost out fast, worth every penny, best compost bin used in 20 years.

Validate vendor promises (ex. compost in 7-days). Look for detailed scientific study from reputable independent organization that supports the claim. Walk away if nothing.

Check vendor ability – do they offer in-depth hands-on composting advice or just regurgitate the ‘list of things to compost’ that only applies to ‘cold’ composting? Look for advice that explains hot versus cold composting, how long it takes in each situation an why it differs when hot composting.

Look for vendors with ability in composting science & engineering. Composting obeys the laws of nature such as heat loss & cooling, rates/speed of biochemical reactions. You do not need to know about the science and engineering of composting – but I believe your compost bin vendor should.

For those who want to look into the detail, here is a little more depth around the seven steps to help you choose a compost bin

Step 1 – Consider your composting goals

Do you want to make lots of rich/great compost for your garden that will improve its fertility and cut down how much fertilizer and maybe even peat you use?

Do you just want to keep the garden tidy?

Do you want to make a more positive contribution to the environment by recycling all your food waste so your local council no longer has to collect and transport it to landfill?

Are you just fed up with allocating more and more of your flower or vegetable patch to overflowing compost bins that never seem to do anything?

What are your goals on sustainability, organic gardening, good use of limited resources.

Step 2 – Review your available space and site for the compost bin

Some compost bins need a certain site (ex. a sunny spot, or the opposite keep in the shade’, ‘only use on soil’, ‘do not use on clay soil’. You may have very little choice (ex. it needs to go on the concrete by the garage). Your site may limit your compost bin choice.

You might have a small garden and no space for a large compost bin, conversely you might have very large garden and taking 9 square feet for a traditional 3-bay compost bin system might pose no issues.

Do you want to the compost bin close to the kitchen so you can pop out easily in the rain to empty your food caddy?

Step 3 – Review the volume of garden and food waste you produce

Are you just going to compost seasonal garden waste (summer/autumn)

Do you want to compost grass cuttings (spring, summer, autumn)

Do you want to compost food waste – produced all year-round – ie compost through winter

How much of each type of waste do you have? In my experience, very few garden composters or food waste recyclers accurately know how many pounds of waste they produce. Very few want to record and measure it either. Choosing the right compost bin size is also further complicated as compost bins can (given the right conditions ‘hot compost’). Hot compost 32 times faster than a competitor bin that only facilitates ‘cold composting. So 5 gallons of waste a week in one bin would rapidly break down within a week, but in another bin build up over time and need a 100 gallon bin.

Step 4 – Consider if you want to ‘hot’ or ‘cold’ compost?

The headline benefits of ‘hot’ composting over ‘cold’ composting are:

  • Hot composting will destroy weed seeds – saving you time and effort in future
  • Hot composting will destroy dangerous bacteria – you can compost all food waste
  • Hot composting requires far less space to compost the same amount of waste
  • Hot composting requires dramatically less time (ex. 30 days Vs 360 days)
  • Hot composting works all year-round (cold heaps stop in winter below 5C)

Step 5 – How much time and effort you are willing to spend on composting

This is hard – everyone tends to answer – ‘none / minimal’. The more a vendor knows this is critical to your choice, the more pressure to use the term ‘easy’ and the bigger the potential expectation gap and likely hood of user disappointment. There is always some effort (ex. collecting food, turning, mixing, shredding). In our experience, it is easier when you follow simple steps. Investing the time to form habits is challenging – especially at the start when people perceive the habits are taking more time not saving time.

So, now you have a clear picture of what you want. Next, how do you check and match the compost bin against your composting goals?

Step 6 – Build a compost bin feature list

Build a feature list, find the top 10 commercial bins, score each feature, ignore those compost bins that do not fit your needs to produce a short list; then weight/score the remaining compost bins to find the best match.

Step 7 – Assess which compost bin will deliver the best price/performance

Score each compost bin against each feature to find the overall value for money score – the million dollar question!

Commercial Product managers do this kind of work as their day job – but it is likely very few composters, gardeners or food waste recyclers have the time or inclination to do this. Follow our link to the ‘compost bin competitive evaluation sheet’. You will find 12 widely available compost bins types and brands analyzed. You can play around with the scores and weighting to see which you think is best.

How To Improve Garden Soil Naturally

Healthy garden soil is teeming with life: there are earthworms and micro-organisms by the millions, each with a particular function in making soil fertile. Like any living thing, the soil must have food. Without food, the life in soil either leaves or dies. Eventually, the garden itself weakens and dies.

Soil life eats organic matter, decomposing it and creating a crucial soil element called humus. Humus is decayed organic material. The process of decomposition releases nutrients in forms that plants can absorb. In other words, decomposition of organic material has a fertilizing effect.

But fertility is only part of the value of regularly feeding the soil with organic material. Humus also contributes to the sponge-like soil texture that allows air circulation and moisture retention. Loam — the ideal soil for growing plants – is a balanced mixture of sand, clay, silt, and organic matter. Humus will bind sandy soil or loosen hard-packed clay.

For these beneficial results (for fertility and texture), the life in soil needs fresh food. Regular doses of organic material will ensure that garden dirt is enhanced rather than depleted over the lifetime of the garden. Every year, a 30 by 40 foot garden needs around 400 pounds (equivalent to 10 bales of hay) of organic material, but it doesn’t need to be added all at once.

Additions of organic material take a variety of forms. For starters, chop garden residues into the soil: weeds, mulch, and plants left after harvest. Hauling in compost by the yard from nurseries or hauling animal manures from nearby farms is also an option. But the easiest and most cost effective method of continuous additions of organic material is to grow cover crops, also known as green manures.

Cover crops are grown and tilled into the soil, replenishing rather than removing nutrients. Even in a small garden, this is an effective method when a harvest crop and a green manure are grown in rotation. For instance, plant a late summer green manure after an early crop such as peas or broccoli.

Some suggestions for cover crops include legumes, buckwheat, and rye grass.

Legumes such as peas and soybeans fix atmospheric nitrogen into the soil when inoculated seeds that attract certain micro-organisms are used. In addition, these legumes are vegetables, making a single planting both a harvest crop and a green manure.

For bulk and quick growth, rye grass or other annual grains are good choices. In colder climates these are especially good cover crops for the end of summer because they die over the winter and are easy to till in the spring. For the poorest soils, buckwheat is most useful.

Green manures can work with or without using powered equipment, but in larger gardens a rotor-tiller certainly makes the process easier. In smaller gardens, the question of whether it makes financial sense to invest in renting or buying a rotor-tiller has to be weighed against the cost of hauling in compost and animal manures.

Either way – hauling or tilling – some form of additional organic material beyond chopping in garden residues must happen in order for the soil to function and for the plants it supports to thrive.

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Growing Tomato Plants

tomato-tiny-tim

Tomatoes from the grocery store shelves taste like-NOTHING! Why? Most of the tomatoes purchased from grocery stores have been harvested days before they reach the grocery, treated to turn red, and bred to stay firm and not bruise on the shelves. Plant breeding for the last fifty years has concentrated on producing a tomato that can survive anything-except for a taste test.

Growing Tomatoes – Heirloom Vs Hybrid Varieties

Gardeners and tomato aficionados alike have given up on the produce aisle for anything other than garnish. Instead, they turn to seed and plant catalogues to find tasty varieties to grow. When viewing a plant catalogue of tomato seed sources, you will be confronted with hundreds of varieties. Huge and tiny, purple, red, yellow and orange tomatoes. Perfectly round, almost flat, and lemon-shaped tomatoes. Seed catalogues highlight another variable to understand regarding tomato growing: heirloom versus hybrid tomatoes.

Heirloom Tomatoes

Tasty and unique, heirloom varieties are endless. This category of plant is where you will find purple, orange and yellow tomatoes sharing catalogue space with red ones. Heirloom varieties are “open pollinated” plants, which means that if you harvest seeds from a plant, prepare them, save them, and plant them next year, you will grow the same plant. Heirloom varieties were developed over time, in isolated gardens and communities, thus developing unique characteristics.

Heirlooms require particular growing conditions, and each variety is different. The key to success with heirlooms is choosing a variety that is well suited to your growing conditions. Because heirloom tomatoes have not been bred for generations to promote vigor and disease resistance, these varieties need a little bit of extra care. They are, however, worth the extra work. Heirlooms will produce lush, flavorful tomatoes of every shape, size and hue, for every culinary taste or need.

Hybrid Tomatoes

These tomatoes are the result of two different tomato varieties being “crossed” or joined, and the seeds harvested from the resulting plants. Hybrid tomato seeds will produce the tomato with hybrid characteristics for only one plant generation. If you harvest your tomatoes from the hybrid plant and plant those seeds next year, you will not have the same plant.

Hybrid tomatoes have been bred for disease resistance, uniformity, and ability to withstand mechanical harvesting, packing and shipping. Little time has been spent in enhancing flavor in hybrid tomatoes. Much like hybrid tea roses, hybrid tomatoes may be nice to look at, but they have few other desirable attributes.

For large-scale commercial tomato growers, hybrid tomatoes are a great help. For consumers expecting bright red tomatoes in the middle of winter, hybrids are a way to consume. For home gardeners, Heirloom varieties produce yields as large, and much more flavorful. Home gardeners have enough time an attention to successfully grow heirloom tomatoes and bring out their best qualities.

Choosing the Right Variety

Whether Heirlooms or Hybrids are your tomato of choice, you much choose tomato varieties that are well suited to your growing environment. Climates with high heat and humidity will help certain varieties flourish, while colder climates with shorter growing seasons require cultivation of plants that set fruit and mature faster.

What is the difference between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes?

When it comes to determinate and indeterminate tomatoes, the main difference is in how they grow. Determinate tomatoes are bred to grow a certain way and ripen all at once. They are mostly used for canning or sauces. Indeterminate tomatoes are bred to vine and grow continuously, so they are better for fresh eating.

Determinate tomatoes generally grow to be about two to four feet tall and have a compact, bushy growth habit. The fruit ripens all at once on these plants, making them ideal for canning or other recipes where you need a lot of ripe tomatoes all at once. Indeterminate tomatoes, on the other hand, can grow much larger, up to six feet or more. They have a vine-type growth habit and produce fruit throughout the season. Because of this, they are better suited for fresh eating.

When it comes to taste, there is no difference between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes. Both types can produce delicious fruits that are perfect for eating fresh or using in recipes. The only real difference is in how they are grown and how the fruit ripens. So, if you¢â‚¬â„¢re looking for a tomato plant that will produce a lot of fruit all at once, go with a determinate variety. If you want a plant that will keep producing fruit throughout the season, choose an indeterminate variety.

Container Gardening Ideas For Your Home

Many gardeners have given up on the idea of a garden because they lack space, time or lots of experience. But if growing plants is an interest of yours container gardening could be your answer. Container gardens will allow you to enjoy “playing in the dirt” without investing a lot of time or money. You can get very creative in container gardening using vegetables, decorative grasses or flowers and herbs. You can plant a container garden with any plant that would grow outside. The trick is to come up with some creative ideas for your container garden.

You should do some research at your local nursery or on the internet to choose the plants you wish to grow to help you come up with some ideas. Try to use plants that complement each other and have the same basic needs for water, air and light.

A container garden idea that has taken off recently is the landscape container. Some people plant a simple evergreen tree in a container with good drainage to place at their front door. Or you could plant an assortment of flowers for a bright and beautiful vista. If you do plant flowers, add plants that spill over the sides of the container to add more visuals and interest. What ever container gardening idea you can come up with can be placed on a deck, patio, and balcony or by the front doors. Put them somewhere that your family and friends can enjoy.

You can grow vegetables in containers but choose wisely. Vegetables like squash and pole beans need lots of space, while tomatoes need a deep pot. When you grow your own vegetables you will have tasty produce not the bland stuff that is in the grocery store. Nothing tastes better than a tomato right off the vine. There are many chefs and good home cooks that grow their own for just this reason. Don’t forget to pot some herbs, they are pretty plants and add zest to your meals.

But don’t just stick to vegetables and herbs; why not add fruit trees too? Instead of using an evergreen tree, pot a fruit tree instead. There are many dwarf varieties available that work best in pots since with pots there is less soil therefore less nutrients to draw from. If you live in a year round warm climate citrus trees are perfect. In other regions, stick to pear, apple and cherry trees. Another good container gardening idea is to grow strawberries. With strawberries climate does not matter since you can bring the container inside. Fresh strawberries are amazingly sweet and delicious. Imagine how good a bowl of fresh strawberries will be, strawberries that you have just picked.

Remember that container gardens dry out more quickly than traditional gardens. Be diligent about watering your plants if you don’t want your container gardening ideas to wither and die. Container gardens must be fertilized too. Keep a small notebook handy so you can write down the needs of your plant so you will always know when to water or feed. Keep an eye out for pests. If you find a container that has an infestation, isolate it immediately and treat it with a natural pesticide. You don’t want harsh chemicals on fruits, vegetables or herbs. A good natural pesticide recipe is:

In a jar, combine 1 teaspoon dishwashing liquid and 1 cup vegetable oil. Shake vigorously. In an empty spray bottle, combine 2 teaspoons of this mixture and 1 cup water. Use at ten-day intervals (or more often if needed) to rid plants of whiteflies, mites, aphids, scales, and other pests.
 
So, do some research, come up with your own unique container gardening ideas, gather your materials and get to work. The fruits of your labor will be amazing.

Happy Container Gardening!

Greenhouse Growing For Tomato Plants

There are a couple of ways for approaching tomato growing in a greenhouse, you can either dig and prepare the soil of the greenhouse ready to accept the tomato plants or you can grow the plants in a container such as a plant pot (12″ diameter) or growbag.

Realistically most growbags that are available which can be 3 to 7 gallons in size are only enough to support two plants. There are ways in which you can push this out to 3 plants but for the cost of a growbag its probably as well just to stick to 2 plants, particularly if you take good care of them and produce lots of fruit.

If you go for pots then you should sterilize them before use, to do this you can use a dilute solution of a suitable disinfectant, something like clorox fluid is perfect for this task.

While we are on this subject, you really should wipe down the inside of your greenhouse with disinfectant as well to ensure any residual contaminants that could also cause disease are removed from the glass.

One of the reasons I am suggesting using large pots or growbags for growing tomato plants is because the soil in the greenhouse is going to need to be dug out and replaced every 2 or 3 years anyway to ensure that you get rid of any build up of disease and also because the soil will be pretty much spent in terms of nutrients.

Space is limited in a greenhouse so the best option for plant varieties is to use the indeterminate variety of tomato plant i.e. a vine plant. You can prune the plant to the required size, leaving about 4 to 6 trusses on the main stem, which is about 6′ to 7′ in height, greenhouse size allowing. This will give you lots of fruit over an extended period. You will have to pinch out the main stem when you have enough trusses to stop further growth.

As an aside, using the bush variety is less convenient for greenhouses because they, as the name suggests, form a determinant size of bush without pruning which is probably a little too large in diameter for the average greenhouse. The fruit also has a tendency to all come at once.

Irrespective of the growing method you choose, you should start to feed the tomatoes at the first sign of fruit and for the duration of the growing period, twice a week should be sufficient. Also as you are in a greenhouse regular and consistent watering is also very important and I recommend 2 to 3 times a day with water that has been allowed to warm in the greenhouse.

As the end of the season nears a way of helping the last remaining fruit ripen is to hang a couple of bananas in the apex of the greenhouse. If that fails to ripen the last bit of fruit you can always use the green tomatoes for making a delicious chutney.

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Herb Gardening

herb garden ideas

Top Three Herb Garden Plants

Here are my top three herb garden plants. That is, if you’re primarily gardening for culinary herbs. With this list in hand on your first trip to the nursery, you’re bound to have success in finding what not only works in your yard but choices that will mesh well with your taste buds.

1. Basil Plants

Basil is the best herb for pesto, hands down. Its leaves have a warm and spicy flavor. You need to only add a small amount of this delightful herb in such dishes as soups, salads and sauces. Basil is also particular suited, by the way, to season anything dish with tomato flavoring. Don’t hesitate to use basil to enhance the flavor of your meat, poultry or fish. You can even add it to your morning breakfast omelet.

You’ll want to start your basil plants early in the spring, preferably in a greenhouse or a sun-drenched windowsill. Early in the summer transplant this herb to your garden. Or, if you have the courage, sow basil seeds directly into her garden early in the spring. Or you may want to try your hand at both methods, just in case those seeds don’t catch.

2. Chives

Who doesn’t love some fresh chives on a hot, newly baked potato? If you’re as mad about this herb as me, then you’ve already noticed that chives have a mildly onion taste. This makes them an excellent addition to salads, any egg and cheese dish, cream cheese, sandwich spreads and sauces. And, oh, by the way, don’t restrict chives to just the baked potato. Taste how in adds a little zing to your mashed potatoes as well.

If you plan on growing chives from starter plants, then you’ll want to get these into your garden in the early spring. And you’ll want to give these plants plenty of room. My recommendation is to plant them a good 9 to 12 inches from each other.

If you plan to plant the chives seeds, then plant them in the fall or the spring, digging down a good half inch and setting the seeds in rows that are spaced about 12 inches apart.

3. Coriander

Now here’s a versatile herb. Its versatility is so great that different parts of this plant are known as different herbs. Grinding the dried seeds to use them in your meats, like veal, ham or pork? You’re using coriander. Using the leaves to add to some Indian or Asian dishes? You’re actually using cilantro.

And of course you can use the roots of coriander as well. If you can’t use them right away, don’t worry you can freeze these. They can be used to flavor soups. Or chop the roots and serve with avocados. You’ll find this deliciously delightful!

Even a novice herbalist should have no problem growing coriander from seeds (I know I did it my first time around and there was no novice who was more naive and at a loss than I!).

Sow these seeds in the early spring. Dig a hole about ‚¼ inch in depth. Plant them in rows that are just about a foot apart. Once the seedlings appear, you’ll want to thin them down some, making sure they’re at least 6 inches from the other.

Use Fresh Herbs

Tiny as they are, herbs are enjoyable and easy to grow. Using them in your cooking allows you the possibility to change the flavors in your dishes in different ways. The freshest of them are great in soups, stews, vegetables, pasta, salads and breads.

Different kinds of herbs create different tastes in foods. If you are new to using herbs, work on them slowly, adding just a little at a time will help you adjust as you go along until you have it just right. As you get used to cooking with herbs, you will learn the best ones that can be associated with particular foods. Storing herbs is also not difficult. Even fresh ones will keep in the refrigerator for several days. But once herbs are frozen, remember that they would be best when only used in cooking and not as garnishes.

For instance, basil is paired with tomatoes, oregano with sauces, rosemary with roasts, and chives with butter or cream cheese. Although these herbs are not limited to these items, you will see them paired most often these ways. If you think oregano can be ideal for a particular food you have in mind, use your imagination and go for it. You never know your experiment will discover you a new-fangled recipe perfectly flavored with the herb.

You will also see that even the simplest meal may seem like a gourmet delight, no wonder why gourmets are masters in associating herbs with food. You can even make herb vinegar for your salad dressing and herb oils that you can use for recipes that call for oil. You can create your own robust-tasting marinades and herb-inspired spreads and rubs. You can make herb butter by mixing butter with minced fresh herb. You will find it fun using your own herb mixes every time you prepare a recipe that calls for vinegar, oil or butter. Really fun, isn’t it?

Imagine how fresh herbs can dress up any dish and make it spectacular-looking. Envision how you can lay individual sprigs of rosemary over your roasts, how you can garnish grilled fish with minced basil, and sprinkle chopped parsley over your potato salad. I like chopping a fresh herb and mix the green pieces in my pale salad dressing. The effect was awesome, and my salad entrƒÂ©e really turned out sparkling. With your own creativity, you can make endless combinations and delicious outcome.

In my little garden, I love growing basil, parsley, oregano, lemon balm, mint and a few others. Mint can over run your garden so growing them in individual cans to prevent the herb from “creeping” all through your garden is worthwhile. My wife makes an instant natural face mask using basil, lemon and avocados. She would pulverize a handful of basil by blending it on high, then throw in half of an avocado and a teaspoon of lemon juice. I tried the trick and there was nothing like an all-natural face mask fresh from my garden!

These are just a few ways you can use fresh herbs from your garden. There are still a lot of fun techniques of using herbs that you can learn for your own culinary style and recipes. But first, start planting your herbs.

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How To Store Basil

Basil, Cinnamon Bouquet

Have you tried storing basil for the winter in a milk carton? This is just one of three good methods to store basil that are revealed below.

With the threat of frost, all garden basil must be harvested and then hopefully stored to be enjoyed during the cold months to come. Since basil has a high water content is cannot be dried like many other herbs as it will turn black and lose flavor. It will also turn black if chopped or bruised and exposed to air. Fortunately freezing basil works great.

Before describing the freezing methods, let’s digress briefly. If you are growing basil yourself, then hopefully you have been harvesting and pruning all season. Pruning makes the plants fuller and keeps them from going to seed which diminishes the leaf flavors. You can store basil keeping it fresh for up to two weeks by placing the branches in a vase and keeping them on the counter out of the sun.

So let’s get back to how to freeze basil. The first step for all three methods is to clean & dry the basil. First remove all leaves from the stems. If you are going to try out the second freezing method, then you will probably want to leave some of the buds intact. The stems should be discarded. Rinse the leaves thoroughly taking care not to bruise them. Finally you want to remove excess water from the leaves by using a salad spinner or laying them out on towels to dry.

The first and most common way to freeze basil is basically the start of a pesto sauce. You chop or puree the basil leaves with olive oil and a bit of salt in a food processor. Coating the basil pieces with oil protects them from air so they can maintain their color & flavor. Pour the puree into small air tight containers and add some extra olive oil on top. After defrosting the puree, re-process adding your favorite pesto ingredients.

The second method takes a little more time, but is still an easy way to freeze basil. This method keeps whole individual leaves or plant buds intact to use as garnish. Put prepared leaves & buds on trays in the freezer for about one to two hours. Once they are frozen, put them into air tight containers. Do not over crowd them; otherwise they will lose their shape. After defrosting for use, you can julienne the leaves or use them whole as garnish on pasta dishes or soups.

Now how about that milk carton? This third method is the easiest. Simply pack the leaves into a cleaned out milk carton with the top cut down. Seal the top closed. Use quart sized cartons & then put the sealed carton inside a Ziploc baggy to make it air tight. When you want to use the basil for cooking, cut off a slice of the carton & re-store the remainder as it was. The frozen leaves are great to use in sauces.

Hopefully you will try one (or all) of these easy ways to freeze basil. By taking time to store basil in the fall, you can enjoy the fresh basil flavors throughout the year. Happy cooking!

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Planting A Fall Vegetable Garden

If you’re like most gardeners, you probably consider August to be the tail end of the growing season. The truth of the matter is that it’s a great time to start your fall garden.

A fall garden can produce excellent vegetables and extend your crops long after your spring planted garden is finished. The vegetables you harvest from the fall garden are often sweeter and milder than those grown over the summer.

What type of vegetable plants you plant in your fall garden will depend on the space you have, as well as the types of vegetables you like. Be sure that you plant vegetables with the shortest growing season, this will increase the chances they will be full grown and harvested before the hard frost sets in. Starting your seeds indoors the first week of July will also give you a good head start.

Most seed packages will be labeled “early season”, or you can find the seeds that are labeled with the fewest days to harvest.‚  Since seeds are not usually kept in stock towards the end of summer, you will probably need to purchase seeds for your fall garden in the spring. You can also find them easily online.

Even vegetables that like the heat of summer, like tomatoes, sweet potatoes, and peppers, will produce nicely until harder frosts hit, which can be fairly late in the year in certain areas.

There are certain vegetable plants that normally stop producing towards the end of summer. These include snap-beans, summer squash, and cucumbers. Even these, if planted in the middle of summer, can produce nicely until the first frosts arrive. Many hardy vegetables will grow with temperatures as low as 20 degrees.

If you have root plants such as beets, carrots or radishes, that have the tops killed by a freeze, you can save them by applying a heavy layer of mulch.

For fall gardening you need to know approximately when the first hard frost normally hits your particular area.  The Farmer’s Almanac is a great resource for this type of information.  It will give you specific dates and is fairly accurate most of the time.  You also need to know approximately how long your plants will take to mature. As I said, this is available by reading the individual seed packets.

To prepare the soil for your fall garden, the first thing you will need to do is clear out leftover summer crops and weeds.  If you leave the leftover vines and plant debris from your summer crops, bacteria and diseases can develop from these leftover remnants.  If your spring plants were not fertilized heavily, you may want to spread a few inches of compost over the garden next.

Once that is done you will need to till the soil and wet it down. Now simply wait 24 hours and your ready to plant.

All too often gardeners will shy away from planting a fall garden, to avoid dealing with frosts. I can tell you from experience that sturdy and healthy vegetables can stand up to a few frosty nights, while producing wonderfully tasting produce.

Fall gardening is not for everyone, but why not give it a try? It can provide you with the opportunity to enjoy garden fresh vegetables for a little while longer each year.

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Creating and Planting a Beautiful Container Garden

Creating and Planting a Beautiful Container Garden

We all have a garden planter or two dotted around our gardens, perhaps filled with a specimen plant or a seasonal display. But there is a lot to be said for using containers as the design basis for creating a garden. Containers are probably one of the most versatile forms of gardening, allowing you not only to choose type of container but also the plant and its location. There are many advantages to container gardening. You can move your containers to different locations within your garden, thereby creating an instantly different effect. You can change planting displays as often as you like, perhaps making the most of the choice of different seasonal plants. You can also grow plants which like different soil types to your own by simply filling them with the right type of compost.

Related Topics:

Types of Garden Planters and Containers

There are an ever increasing number of different types of container you can buy, with materials and designs to suit every climate and different tastes. Pots and tubs are probably the most popular type of planter available. They are for the most part versatile and easily moved to different positions in the garden. Pots and tubs come in an enormous variety of sizes and designs, both traditional and modern. Materials vary from moss covered terracotta and artificially aged stone planters, to reused car tires and fiber glass. There are no rules when it comes to choosing a type of container and there is no reason why you can’t combine traditional with modern. Just be aware that your designs and materials complement each other in some way.

Pots and tubs are equally as versatile when it comes to planting. You can grow almost anything you like in a container. Formally clipped box and other evergreens look stunning as focal points, as do specimen standard plants such as bay trees. Group a number of planters of different sizes together with a plant type such as herbs. A particularly stunning planter can be filled with seasonal annuals for an all year round display.

Window boxes are another great way to grow plants and enhance the appearance of your house and garden. Window boxes are particularly useful if you have a tiny garden or even if you have no garden at all! You can buy ready- made window boxes, have them made bespoke to your requirements or simply make your own. Window boxes don’t have to be made of wood. I have seen some beautifully aged metal ones as well as reconstituted stone ground-level boxes. Grow seasonal displays or plant up a box outside your kitchen window with herbs or easy to grow edibles like lettuce.

Raised bed garden
growing in containers
raised bed garden

Hanging baskets are probably the most versatile of all containers. They can be hung on walls, fences and even in trees. Not only can your display be changed from season to season, but you can also grow edible plants such as tumbling tomatoes and strawberries and even a selection of herbs, hung near your kitchen door. Hanging baskets also come in a variety of shapes and sizes. More traditionally made from wicker, but I have seen some great modern alternatives made from brightly colored plastics.

Troughs and sinks can be used to create mini container gardens in one place. Although strictly speaking you can grow anything you like in a trough shaped planter, the lack of depth makes them more suited to growing alpines and herbs. Stone troughs probably look the best in any garden but why not also think about getting hold of an old Belfast sink which looks particularly effective when planted with herbs under a kitchen window.

Another type of container not readily thought about is the raised bed. Raised beds are a great way of growing both vegetables and garden plants. They are easy to maintain and therefore popular with gardeners with impaired mobility. They are also an easy way of adding structure to an otherwise flat garden space, lifting plants higher up and creating the illusion of different levels to a garden.

Some Container Planting Rules

If you are going to maintain a healthy container garden, there are a few rules you will need to follow whatever type of planter. Drainage is all important for container grown plants. Make sure your container has adequate drainage holes and always add some broken pot or crocks to the bottom of the planter to aid drainage. If your container is to be placed on a hard surface, sit it on some feet to raise it above ground level slightly. Use the right type of compost. Try not to overcrowd your container, most plants will need plenty of room to spread their roots and grow into healthy specimens. Conversely, don’t let your plants become pot-bound. Although there are a few plants which do well in these conditions, as a rule, either divide you plant or re-pot it into a larger container.

In extremely cold weather both your containers and their plants will need some protection. For those that are not frost hardy it is probably best to over winter them into a cold greenhouse. Others can be wrapped in straw or fleece to protect them from frost.

Perhaps the most important consideration of all for container grown plants is water. During dry weather in the summer months you will have to make sure your pots are well watered. Materials like terracotta dry out quickly as the clay absorbs water, so you will often find yourself having to water at least twice a day. Early morning and evening is best. During the winter water container plants sparingly. Waterlogged containers easily freeze killing the roots of the plants in them.

I am a firm believer that a garden reflects some of the personality of the gardener who tends it. Garden planters are a great way of putting your stamp on a garden, particularly if you are a little bit quirky! I have seen old wooden boats used as planters, odd worn out walking boots, pan tiles, antique wash tubs, old car tires and even a disused toilet!

Reusing Plastic Containers and Planters

Anyone who has a garden or ever got a potted plant has had to deal with those seemingly useless plastic pots. Most people throw them out. I save them until they crumble-re-using over and over again. They can be the “greenest” item in your garden that save you the most green.

I have a very small gardening space including containers but big or small practical ways maybe “green” now but will always make sense far after being GREEN loses fashion.

So what to do with all those unsightly plastic pots? Whether you have an established garden or just starting out; when you buy plants you will have to deal with re-using or disposing of them.

Plastic pots have an endless amount of uses in the garden. So before you just think re-cycle re-think they can save you money before tossing them out:

Seeds eventually become seedlings needing a larger pot; having pots on hand is both convenient and cost-saving.

Small pots make excellent large pot fillers. Place a small pot upside down in a larger one then fill with soil and plant. Container is lighter with less soil used.

Instead of throwing out the cell flats, crumble up and use as a large container filler too. [Or wash and use as packing material.]

Place invasive plants inside of the pot then plant in the ground for keeping them in-check.

Have too many plants? Bought too many? Divide both annuals and perennials using pots to share plants. Don’t have to worry about loaning out your expensive ones.

Don’t have drainage holes in that pretty container? Put plant in a plastic pot then place inside the prettier one. [Don’t forget to pour out any excess water.]

Wish you could afford more expensive containers? Take plastic pots, spray paint assorted colors then add decorative ribbons, beads or sphagnum moss to make appealing.

Don’t like to water? Plastic holds moisture longer so use instead of terra cotta [I still recommend terra cotta for herbs in almost all instances.] Works for indoor/outdoor plants.

Just planted a new plant? Use plastic container as a cloche or shield to protect until established.

Threat of frost? Use containers to cover tender plants. Use 2 pots together to block out holes and create a better insulator.

Weeding. Keep containers around as receptacles when pulling them out.

Use to make compost or save potting soil.

Use small pots as scoops for mulch, fertilizer, etc.

Use to prop up other containers to create different plant levels.

Use to hold garden tools.

Plant below ground level then put smaller pots filled with annuals for easy change-ups.

Storing bulbs or use for overwintering plants.

As you can see the possibilities are endless. These are the pots that cost nothing but continue to save you money over and over again. $$$$$. How Green is that?

container garden
container gardening
raised herb bed garden

5 Gallon Buckets in the Garden

Continuing the discussion of how important the often underestimated 5 gallon buckets at home, we are now revealing how we can make the best use of these pails in the garden.

As pots

Although the appearance of the 5 gallon pails may not look as charming as the real gardening pots, they are highly functional and cheaper. Good quality 5 gallon buckets cost between $ 3 and $ 6; which is nothing compared to gardening pots’ price. With some little preparation, the pails can be turned into flower pots instantly.

All you have to do is to drill the bottom of the 5 gallon buckets with ‚½ or ‚¼-inch holes to allow water drainage. 10 to 15 holes are enough for 5 gallon pails. Next is to fill in the buckets with good quality potting soil and fertilizer. It is now ready to be planted.

If you care about upgrading the look of the modest 5 gallon pails, you may want to put more time before filling in with soil. Get some paint with the color you like, paint the pails, give some accents with different colors of paint, and dry it completely. Remember to paint only on the outer side for vegetables and herbs gardening. You don’t want the vegetables you grow to take the chemical substance of the paint since you will be eating them later.

Another advantage of having 5 gallon buckets garden is that it is extremely practical. You can move the pots wherever and whenever you want. If the growing season is over, you can pile them up and store the soil for the next gardening season, or you can just move them indoor if the plant thrives to survive there. The 5 gallon buckets also make it more difficult for animals like rabbits to destroy your plants.

Now you have not only a cheap way to grow your herbs and plants, but also creative and practical ways too.

As compost containers

Compost plays an important role in the life of a plant. Good homemade compost even plays more important role in the environment. Oddly enough, your plastic 5 gallon pails can help make this happen. As the container of compost making.

First of all, you should drill ‚¼-inch holes around the sides of the bucket. This will allow air circulation and water drainage. Line the bottom of the pail with dry leaves and soil. After that, dump your table scraps like vegetables, napkins, eggshells, coffee grounds or tea bags inside the bucket. Avoid milk and meaty stuff since this could attract vermin. Cover again with dry plant debris and soil. Do one dry layer after the wet one continuously and wait until the 5 gallon pail is filled up. Have a lid to close the pail and let the microorganisms work the compost. Check it out from time to time whether it is too dry or too wet. If it is too dry, add some water and move it to a shadier place. If it is too wet, place it under the sun to dry a little bit. This process takes from several weeks to months to complete.

The better pails to use for homemade composting are the ones in dark colors. Black will be the best. It will absorb more heat for the microorganisms to live under the shade.

If you use 5 gallon buckets in your garden for those purposes mentioned above, you will definitely promote an environment friendly gardening and at the same time save money for a better use at home.

Happy gardening!

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Do Old Coffee Grounds Work As Fertilizer?

First, what makes up brewed coffee, besides caffeine? Nutrition experts agree that coffee grounds contain magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, copper, manganese and trace amounts of calcium. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are the ingredients necessary for garden soil. They coincide with the figures you see on most garden fertilizer bags. So coffee does have what plants need to grow.

There seems to be some debate about whether or not coffee produces nitrogen. Most agree that coffee grounds contain 1.5 to 2.2% nitrogen. However, some feel that the nitrogen is not available to the soil or the plants until the grounds themselves begin to decompose.

Others say you must compost the coffee grounds with other plants to release the nitrogen in the decomposition process. They recommend adding nitrogen to the soil if using only the grounds. The rotting grounds attract nitrogen-consuming microbes, thus, the need to add nitrogen if using only coffee grounds as a fertilizer.

So to be on the safe side where fertilizing is concerned, you may be better off tossing your coffee grounds along with other compost into the garden in the fall and winter to allow them time to be of best use for spring planting.

When I emptied coffee grounds on top of the soil last fall and spring, I did not include it in a compost. I did use 8 to 10 cubic feet of a peat and compost mixture in the spring that I emptied all over my garden, which is 13 by 33 feet. I turned the soil about 6-8 inches deep before planting. I’ve never had tomatoes produce so much in my four years of gardening.

How does the acid in coffee affect things? The coffee you drink is acidic, but the grounds afterward are closer to neutral on the pH scale. Some argue that they retain their acid level until combined with compost and its microbes, which neutralize it. Either way acid is great if your soil is low in it (alkaline). In the West, where I live, soils are alkaline and getting closer to neutral or increasing the acid content is a good thing for my strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and radishes. Keep in mind that you have to use quite a bit of grounds to make any real difference in the pH scale.

Coffee grounds have other benefits aside from being a fertilizer. They boost the heat in soil better than most composting materials, including manure. These high temperatures kill seeds from weeds or vegetables that may have made their way into the compost pile. If you are thinking about raised beds, consider lining the bottom edges with coffee grounds to prevent weeds from sneaking in.

Other benefits to using coffee grounds in the garden include its ability to attract earthworms, thereby improving soil structure. It even keeps cats from pooping in your garden. (Our neighborhood stray poops along the outside of the garden instead!) If tomato blight is a concern, there are some who think the copper in coffee grounds keeps this at bay.

Coffee grounds are also good at keeping away pests for both inside plants and outside flowers, like hostas, roses, lilies, peonies or those grown from bulbs. The caffeine discourages slugs and snails. You can add about 2 cups of grounds to a 5 gallon jug of water and let it steep overnight. Use it to water plants and don’t be afraid to water the leaves, too.

So whether or not coffee grounds include enough nitrogen to be used as a fertilizer, its pest deterrent qualities and attraction to earthworms has more than sold me on its benefits. If you aren’t a coffee drinker, just ask your local coffee shop if you can have their leftover grounds. It not only helps them dispose of waste, but it also helps create a more abundant, inexpensive and organic garden.

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Herb Garden Kit – Indoor Kitchen Herb Garden

Herb Garden Kit - Indoor Kitchen Herb Garden

Creating a thriving herb garden in your kitchen is more than just a way to add fresh flavor to meals. It’s an invitation to bring the beauty and aroma of the garden inside your home. An indoor herb garden kit offers an easy way to get started. It simplifies planting, saves space, and makes fresh herbs available year-round. Whether you live in a house with limited outdoor space or an apartment with no garden at all, these kits are perfect for anyone who wants to grow fresh, aromatic herbs without the hassle.

Why Indoor Herb Garden Kits Are So Popular

Fresh Herbs at Your Fingertips

Cooking becomes more exciting when you can pinch fresh basil or snip parsley straight into your dish. You don’t need to rush to the store or settle for dried herbs. The garden is right on your countertop.

Year-Round Greenery

Unlike outdoor gardens that rely on warm weather, indoor kits allow you to grow all year long. Rain or shine, summer or winter, your herbs keep thriving.

Space-Saving and Simple

Even if your kitchen is small, herb garden kits fit neatly on windowsills or countertops. They are designed for compact spaces and often include everything you need to start growing right away.

Beginner-Friendly

No experience? No problem. These kits are ideal for beginners. They often come with soil pods, seeds, labels, and clear instructions. Anyone can plant, water, and watch their herbs sprout with ease.

What Comes in a Typical Herb Garden Kit?

Most indoor kitchen herb garden kits are thoughtfully packaged so you can start planting the moment you open the box. While each kit is different, you can usually expect these items:

  • Herb Seeds – Common options include basil, parsley, cilantro, thyme, mint, and oregano. Some kits offer specialty herbs like chives or dill.
  • Growing Containers – Small pots, biodegradable planters, or decorative jars suited for indoor use.
  • Soil or Growing Medium – Pre-measured soil disks or pellets that expand with water for clean, easy planting.
  • Plant Markers – Wooden or plastic labels to help identify each herb as it grows.
  • Instructions – Step-by-step directions that guide even first-time gardeners through setup and care.

Some premium kits may also include:

  • Self-Watering Systems – Built-in reservoirs that reduce how often you need to water.
  • LED Grow Lights – Perfect for kitchens with low sunlight.
  • Decorative Containers – Rustic wood boxes, ceramic pots, or modern metal planters to match your kitchen style.

Best Herbs to Grow Indoors

Indoor conditions favor certain herbs that thrive in pots and grow well year-round. Here are some favorites you’ll find in most kits:

Basil

Fast-growing and fragrant, basil adds a sweet, peppery flavor to salads, pasta, and pizza. It loves bright light and frequent harvesting.

Parsley

A versatile herb that grows easily indoors. Use it to garnish dishes or mix into soups and sauces.

Cilantro

Perfect for salsas, curries, and fresh salads. It prefers cooler indoor temperatures and quick harvesting.

Mint

A hardy herb that grows vigorously. Great for teas, desserts, and cocktails.

Thyme

Compact and low-maintenance, thyme offers earthy flavor perfect for roasting vegetables and meats.

Oregano

A Mediterranean favorite, oregano thrives indoors and adds bold flavor to Italian and Greek dishes.

How to Set Up Your Indoor Herb Garden Kit

Step 1: Choose the Right Location

Place your kit near a sunny window where it can receive at least 4–6 hours of light each day. A south-facing window is ideal. If natural light is limited, consider adding a small grow light.

Step 2: Prepare the Containers

Follow the kit’s instructions to set up your planters. If soil pellets are included, soak them in water until they expand. Fill your containers evenly.

Step 3: Plant the Seeds

Plant the seeds at the depth suggested in the instructions. Most herb seeds need only a shallow covering of soil. Space them evenly so each plant has room to grow.

Step 4: Water Lightly

Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so check the soil daily and water only when it feels dry to the touch.

Step 5: Provide Light and Warmth

Place your kit where temperatures stay between 65–75°F. Herbs grow best in stable conditions with consistent light.

Step 6: Harvest Regularly

Once your herbs reach a few inches tall, begin harvesting. Snip the top leaves first to encourage fuller growth. Regular trimming keeps plants healthy and productive.

Tips for Success

  • Rotate Plants Weekly – Turning pots helps plants grow evenly toward the light.
  • Pinch Back Often – Frequent harvesting encourages bushier growth and prevents flowering.
  • Fertilize Lightly – A diluted liquid fertilizer every 4–6 weeks can boost growth.
  • Watch for Pests – Indoor herbs rarely have pests, but check leaves for small insects and treat early if needed.
  • Refresh Soil Annually – After several months, herbs may need fresh soil or repotting for continued growth.

Benefits Beyond Cooking

Growing herbs indoors is more than a kitchen convenience. It brings life, fragrance, and even stress relief to your home. Watching seeds sprout and grow can be calming. The greenery brightens your kitchen, and the scent of fresh basil or mint can lift your mood.

Indoor gardening is also a fun family activity. Children love planting seeds, watching them grow, and tasting the results. It’s a simple way to teach kids about where food comes from and encourage healthier eating.

Styles of Herb Garden Kits

Rustic Wooden Planters

These often come in farmhouse-inspired designs, perfect for cozy kitchens.

Modern Ceramic Pots

Sleek and minimalist, these fit well in contemporary spaces and make herbs look elegant on a countertop.

Hanging Herb Kits

Great for saving counter space, these hang from walls or windows and add vertical greenery.

Smart Garden Systems

High-tech kits with automated watering and grow lights. They are more expensive but nearly foolproof for busy households.

Why Choose a Kit Over DIY?

You can create your own indoor herb garden with separate pots and seeds, but kits save time and guesswork. Everything is included and sized to work together. Kits also make excellent gifts for friends, family, or anyone who enjoys cooking and gardening. They are practical, thoughtful, and fun to use.

Perfect for All Seasons and All Homes

Indoor herb garden kits work in apartments, condos, dorm rooms, and full-sized homes. You don’t need a backyard or a balcony. Even in winter, when outdoor gardens are dormant, your kitchen can stay green and fragrant.

Bringing Flavor and Freshness Inside

Fresh herbs transform meals. They add color, aroma, and vibrant flavor. With an indoor herb garden kit, you never have to settle for dried herbs again. Every pinch of basil or sprig of thyme is alive with freshness. And the best part? You grew it yourself, right in your kitchen.

A New Chapter in Your Cooking and Gardening

Bringing an herb garden into your kitchen changes how you cook and live. It turns everyday meals into something special. It connects you to nature, even in the middle of winter. And it reminds you that growing your own food can be simple and joyful.

Now is the perfect time to start. Pick a kit that suits your style, find a sunny spot, and watch your kitchen transform into a tiny indoor garden bursting with flavor.

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Despite the Heat, Summer Gardening Can Be Rewarding

Sunpatien Compact Pink Candy

Summer is the season of vibrant blooms, juicy vegetables, and buzzing pollinators. It’s also the time when heat can test both plants and gardeners. But instead of dreading the soaring temperatures, we can use this season to grow, experiment, and savor the rewards of hard work in the garden. With the right strategies, summer gardening can be both productive and deeply enjoyable.

This guide explores practical tips, creative ideas, and inspiring approaches to make your summer garden thrive—no matter how hot it gets.

Understanding the Summer Garden Challenge

Why heat matters

High temperatures affect more than our comfort. Plants lose water faster. Soil dries out quickly. Some flowers may wilt by midday, while vegetables can bolt or stop producing. But when we understand these challenges, we can plan smarter.

Nature’s resilience

Many plants adapt beautifully to summer’s intensity. Zinnias, marigolds, peppers, and okra flourish in warm weather. Herbs like basil and oregano actually grow stronger in heat. By choosing the right varieties and caring for them wisely, we create a garden that thrives rather than struggles.

Choosing Heat-Tolerant Plants

Annuals that shine in the sun

Bright flowers bring life to summer gardens. Some of the best include:

  • Zinnias – Long-lasting color and perfect for cut flowers.
  • Marigolds – Natural pest deterrent and easy to grow from seed.
  • SunPatiens – Tolerate full sun and keep blooming through heat waves.
  • Cosmos – Feathery foliage and blooms that attract pollinators.

Vegetables that love warmth

Not every crop falters in high heat. In fact, summer is peak season for:

  • Tomatoes – Thrive in warm soil; just keep them watered.
  • Peppers – Sweet and hot varieties both do well in sun.
  • Okra – Almost thrives on neglect and loves the heat.
  • Eggplant – Needs warmth to produce firm, glossy fruits.

Herbs that never quit

Fresh herbs are the soul of summer cooking. The best choices include:

  • Basil – Loves full sun and steady moisture.
  • Oregano – Hardy and aromatic, even in dry soil.
  • Thyme – Low-growing and drought tolerant.
  • Rosemary – Thrives in containers and dry conditions.

Be Smart About Watering

Deep and less frequent

Instead of daily light watering, give plants a deep soak a few times a week. This encourages roots to grow downward, where soil stays cooler and wetter.

Morning is best

Water early in the day so leaves dry before nightfall. This reduces fungal problems and ensures plants start the day hydrated.

Mulch for moisture

A thick layer of mulch—straw, shredded leaves, or pine bark—keeps soil cool and reduces evaporation. It also suppresses weeds, which compete for water.

Protecting Plants from Extreme Heat

Provide afternoon shade

Use shade cloth, lattice, or even a strategically placed trellis to block harsh afternoon sun. This helps delicate plants like lettuce or young seedlings survive.

Group containers

Place potted plants close together. This creates a microclimate where moisture lingers and roots stay cooler.

Wind and heat barriers

Fencing, hedges, or even temporary burlap screens can reduce drying winds and scorching sun exposure.

Soil Care in Summer

Keep feeding simple

Fast-growing plants need nutrition, but summer heat can stress roots. Use slow-release fertilizers or gentle compost teas instead of heavy feeding.

Refresh mulch midseason

Mulch breaks down over time. Adding a fresh layer mid-summer replenishes moisture retention and keeps the garden tidy.

Watch for compacted soil

Water and foot traffic can harden soil in heat. Lightly aerate around perennials and vegetables to keep roots breathing.

Creative Summer Garden Ideas

Mix edibles and ornamentals

Combine tomatoes with marigolds or peppers with basil. This not only looks beautiful but also helps with pest control and pollination.

Vertical gardening for airflow

Trellises, obelisks, and cages keep vines like cucumbers and beans off the ground, improving airflow and saving space.

Evening garden spaces

Add a bench, string lights, or fragrant plants like night-blooming jasmine. Summer evenings are magical when the heat fades and the garden hums with crickets.

Pollinator havens

Plant nectar-rich flowers like coneflowers, salvia, and lantana. Hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies will reward you with constant activity.

Gardening for the Senses

Colors that pop in bright light

Hot pink zinnias, fiery orange cosmos, and golden sunflowers stay vivid under the blazing sun. Use these to create a cheerful mood.

Fragrance in the heat

Heat releases the oils in herbs and flowers. Plant lavender, basil, and rosemary near paths where brushing against them releases bursts of scent.

Tactile enjoyment

Include plants with interesting textures—lamb’s ear’s soft leaves, ornamental grasses swaying in the breeze, or rough sunflower stalks kids love to touch.

Keep Yourself Comfortable

Hydration and timing

Garden early morning or late evening. Keep water handy and wear a wide-brimmed hat. Simple adjustments protect your energy and health.

Lightweight clothing

Choose breathable fabrics like cotton or linen. Gloves prevent blisters, and sturdy shoes keep feet cool and safe.

Rest in the shade

Take breaks. Sit back and admire your work. Part of gardening’s joy is pausing to soak in what you’ve created.

Embracing Summer’s Unique Joys

Summer gardening is about abundance. Tomatoes ripen faster than you can eat them. Flowers bloom in wild profusion. Pollinators fill the air with life. Yes, the heat can be intense, but with the right choices, this season rewards us with unmatched color, flavor, and vitality.

Instead of avoiding the garden in July or August, lean into it. Choose plants that love the sun, water wisely, and create shady spots for yourself and your plants. The result is a thriving space where beauty and harvest meet in perfect harmony.

A Season Worth Celebrating

Summer asks us to slow down, work with nature, and enjoy the bounty right outside our doors. Every bloom, every ripe tomato, and every buzzing bee is proof of life’s resilience in the heat. When we adapt to the season, rather than fight it, our gardens—and our spirits—flourish.

So, step outside. Feel the warmth on your skin. And let your summer garden remind you that even in the hottest months, growth and beauty never pause.

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Garden Flowers: Annuals or Perennials?

Perennials vs. Annuals – What Are the Advantages of Each?

Choosing the right flowers for a garden can feel like standing at a crossroads. On one side are annuals, bursting with color and energy, but here for only one season. On the other are perennials, steady and reliable, returning year after year with quiet grace. Both have their own strengths. Both can transform your space in unique ways. Understanding these differences helps you plan a garden that blooms beautifully and works with your lifestyle.

Understanding the Basics

What Are Annuals?

Annuals complete their entire life cycle in a single growing season. They sprout, grow, bloom, produce seeds, and die—all within one year. If you want them again next year, you must replant.

Examples include marigolds, petunias, zinnias, impatiens, and sunflowers. These flowers are often chosen for their bold, nonstop color and quick impact.

What Are Perennials?

Perennials are plants that return year after year. Their top growth may die back in winter, but their root systems stay alive underground, ready to sprout again when spring arrives.

Examples include daylilies, coneflowers, peonies, hostas, and black-eyed Susans. These flowers are known for their long-term beauty and ability to spread and mature over time.

The Advantages of Annuals

Annual flowers offer something irresistible—instant color and flexibility. Here’s why many gardeners love them:

1. Immediate Impact

Annuals grow fast and bloom hard. Within weeks of planting, your garden is overflowing with color. This is perfect if you want instant beauty for a special event or seasonal display.

2. Long Blooming Season

Most annuals bloom from spring to the first frost. That means you get months of nonstop flowers, far longer than many perennials that bloom only for a few weeks.

3. Bold and Diverse Colors

Annuals are famous for their vibrant shades. Electric pinks, sunny yellows, deep purples—annuals make it easy to experiment with striking color combinations.

4. Great for Containers and Borders

Because annuals don’t have to survive winter, they work well in containers, hanging baskets, and edging borders. You can swap them out easily for a fresh look each year.

5. Flexibility in Design

Annuals let you reinvent your garden every season. If you love trying new themes or color palettes, annuals are the ultimate design tool.

The Advantages of Perennials

Perennials reward patience with lasting beauty and lower long-term costs. Here’s why they are a favorite for many gardeners:

1. They Come Back Every Year

Plant once, enjoy for years. Perennials return season after season, saving you the effort and expense of replanting annually.

2. Cost-Effective Over Time

While perennials often cost more upfront, they pay off in the long run. A single investment can provide beauty for decades with proper care.

3. Low Maintenance

Many perennials are hardy and resilient. Once established, they need less water, fertilizer, and care compared to annuals.

4. Naturalizing and Spreading

Perennials often grow larger and multiply over time. They can fill in empty spaces naturally, creating lush garden beds without constant replanting.

5. Seasonal Interest and Structure

Perennials add rhythm to the garden. Some bloom in spring, others in summer or fall. Their foliage, seed heads, and winter silhouettes add texture year-round.

When to Choose Annuals

Annuals are ideal when:

  • You want fast results for new beds or containers.
  • You enjoy changing your garden’s look every year.
  • You love intense, bold colors that pop in summer.
  • You need seasonal displays for holidays, weddings, or parties.
  • Your garden beds need filling between young perennials.

When to Choose Perennials

Perennials are perfect when:

  • You want long-term beauty without replanting every spring.
  • You prefer a low-maintenance garden that evolves naturally.
  • You aim to build a garden’s structure and character over time.
  • You enjoy watching plants mature and return bigger each year.
  • You want wildlife-friendly gardens—many perennials provide nectar and shelter for pollinators.

Why Not Both?

The best gardens often combine annuals and perennials. Here’s how they work together:

  • Perennials provide the backbone. Their steady presence creates structure and continuity.
  • Annuals add seasonal flair. Their bursts of color fill gaps and keep things lively.
  • Mixed beds stay dynamic. As perennials fade, annuals can carry the show until frost.

For example, a bed of daylilies (perennials) can be brightened with marigolds (annuals) in summer. When the lilies finish blooming, the marigolds keep shining until fall.

Planning Tips for a Balanced Garden

1. Start with Perennials for Structure

Plant perennials as your garden’s foundation. Choose different bloom times to ensure something is always flowering.

2. Use Annuals for Gaps and Pops of Color

Fill empty spots with annuals to create fullness and extend bloom seasons.

3. Think About Maintenance

If you prefer low effort, lean toward more perennials. If you enjoy seasonal replanting and experimenting, add more annuals.

4. Match to Your Climate

Some plants act as perennials in warm regions but as annuals in cold ones. Know your USDA hardiness zone and choose accordingly.

5. Consider Pollinators and Wildlife

Both annuals and perennials can attract bees, butterflies, and birds. Mix them for a pollinator-friendly haven.

Examples of Stunning Combinations

  • Black-Eyed Susans (Perennial) + Zinnias (Annual)
    Golden daisies paired with bright, rainbow blooms for cheerful summer beds.
  • Hostas (Perennial) + Impatiens (Annual)
    Shade-loving hostas with lush foliage paired with impatiens’ vibrant flowers.
  • Coneflowers (Perennial) + Petunias (Annual)
    Coneflowers provide height and structure, while petunias trail with soft fragrance.
  • Daylilies (Perennial) + Marigolds (Annual)
    Hardy daylilies bloom in waves, complemented by marigolds’ continuous color.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  1. Planting Only One Type
    A garden of only annuals can be costly to replant each year. A garden of only perennials may lack color at certain times. Balance is key.
  2. Ignoring Bloom Times
    Mix early, mid, and late bloomers to ensure flowers from spring through fall.
  3. Not Considering Growth Habits
    Perennials spread and grow larger over time. Plan for their mature size to avoid crowding.
  4. Forgetting Soil and Sun Needs
    Match plants to your conditions. Full-sun annuals will struggle in shade, and vice versa.

Creating a Garden That Feels Alive

Gardening is more than planting flowers. It’s about creating a living space that grows with you. Annuals bring excitement and change. Perennials bring stability and a sense of homecoming each spring. Together, they create a garden that feels full, balanced, and alive.

A Blooming Blend for Every Gardener

Whether you lean toward the vibrant energy of annuals or the lasting charm of perennials, there’s no wrong choice. Both bring beauty and joy in their own way. The real magic happens when we mix them, letting each shine in its season. A garden that blends both is not only practical but endlessly rewarding—a space that surprises us each year and invites us back to see what blooms next.

Growing Beauty, Year After Year

Choosing between annuals and perennials doesn’t have to be a strict decision. The garden you create today can change with the seasons, just like life itself. Plant boldly. Experiment freely. And let your garden tell a story that unfolds, year after year, in living color.